Gas fittings

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20 Jun 2007
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Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
www.bavariayacht.info
I finally replaced the gas pipe on my boat, the old one was badly corroded. I plan to use the existing cock in a galley locker, assuming I can clean it up.

I've got new copper olives, not the same shape as the old ones though. Should I use compound? I have Hylomar Universal Blue and Hylosil Instant Gasket (which seems to be silicone). Alternatively I can wait for the final connection until the next trip.

Fairly typical that I managed to get the pipe through all the holes and behind lockers, but on the final bend (a little tighter than the others) the pipe squashed a bit. Not sure if I should try to gain a bit and start this bend again, or leave it :(
 
I've got new copper olives, not the same shape as the old ones though. Should I use compound? I have Hylomar Universal Blue and Hylosil Instant Gasket (which seems to be silicone). Alternatively I can wait for the final connection until the next trip.

Fairly typical that I managed to get the pipe through all the holes and behind lockers, but on the final bend (a little tighter than the others) the pipe squashed a bit. Not sure if I should try to gain a bit and start this bend again, or leave it :(

Copper olives are usually just plain cylindical things...... like short lengths of coper tube.

Brass ones are usually shaped and vary a bit.


Calor recommend copper olives for gas systems.


It is recommended that you do not use any sealant ( or tape !)) on compression fittings.
The knack really is leaning how tight to do them up. It is important not to overtighten to the point where you start to deform the tube.

Cannot help with the last of your post .... your call ... dont forget how easily copper work hardens.
 
I found the original Bavaria fittings and tap poor quality and incompatible with imperial pipe and olives, so my fitter replaced everything.
 
Gas fitting olives (like all olives) come in varying shapes, so long as you are sure they are soft copper all will be fine on that score. As for the tube, any kinks are a complete no no, a small hand bending former is available for up to 8mm tube from eBay at small cost and will help with tight bends, I use mine a lot on drip feed stove installs. Sealant (as a sealant anyway) is not usually needed but I often use Clessetite gas sealant as it helps lubricate the threads for easy tightening in awkward locations and assists with the olive spread. Make sure you have a bubble tester to ensure that your install is leak free.
 
I've bought a new valve that is straight 8mm CuCu, my existing one has an elbow on one end. Also bought a 10mm pipe bender (8mm pipe, plastic coated). If I move the valve up inside the locker, I can cut off the slightly flattened bend.

Now I turn my attention to the gas bottle end...

I have a regulator for Campingaz with a M20x1.5 threaded outlet. I need to connect this via a 40-50cm hose to 8mm copper pipe at the other end, where I also need a 90° elbow.

Plenty of M20 pigtails on eBay, but none of them a standard thread the other end as far as I can see. I've tried looking on SoCal, but there is no listing for any ancillary equipment, and no search.

I also note that gas hose now appears to be black?

Thanks to VicS for the idea of boring out a flanged coupler to get through the bulkhead without a join; now fitted with a rubber O-ring in place of the olive to grip the plastic coating, and a flush surface inside the locker. But I should have used my drill press :)
 
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I have a regulator for Campingaz with a M20x1.5 threaded outlet. I need to connect this via a 40-50cm hose to 8mm copper pipe at the other end, where I also need a 90° elbow.

Plenty of M20 pigtails on eBay, but none of them a standard thread the other end as far as I can see. I've tried looking on SoCal, but there is no listing for any ancillary equipment, and no search.

I also note that gas hose now appears to be black?

Marine regulators have a threaded connection and neen a hose tail to connect the hose. Perhaps thats what you have

See http://www.whayward.com/

LP hose is usually black the reinforced HP hose usually orange. The black stuff is easier to push onto nozzles.
 
Marine regulators have a threaded connection and neen a hose tail to connect the hose. Perhaps thats what you have ... See http://www.whayward.com/
Yes, it's a Hayward 4005. But surely it is neater to get a hose with an M20 fitting already crimped on?

I've emailed them to see what they suggest. But I hate contact forms that insist on getting your full details.
 
Yes, it's a Hayward 4005. But surely it is neater to get a hose with an M20 fitting already crimped on?

I've emailed them to see what they suggest. But I hate contact forms that insist on getting your full details.

Dont forget you should be replacing the hose every 5 years.

I have some nice stainless hose clamps which tighten nicely on small diameters, unlike Jubilee clips and similar, and which can be tightened by hand but if you want to be neat fit the hose onto the nozzle with "2 ear" clips. There is a special tool for fitting and removing them but carpenters pincers work OK.
 
I've bought a new valve that is straight 8mm CuCu, my existing one has an elbow on one end. Also bought a 10mm pipe bender (8mm pipe, plastic coated). If I move the valve up inside the locker, I can cut off the slightly flattened bend.

....

I think there is a lot to be said for having the valve outside the locker in plain view.
I then tend to see it and turn it off, and I can see that others have turned it off.

And you don't get so many 'why won't this &%$ stove light?' moments...

I assume the plastic coating is bonded to the copper tubing? did you buy it like that or is it heat shrink?
 
...fit the hose onto the nozzle with "2 ear" clips. There is a special tool for fitting and removing them but carpenters pincers work OK.

Strange to say, I've been told that these clips are not acceptable under the BSS inspectorate - yet our local Calor agent insists that they are the only acceptable clips for use on a gas hose.

Rob
 
Strange to say, I've been told that these clips are not acceptable under the BSS inspectorate - yet our local Calor agent insists that they are the only acceptable clips for use on a gas hose.

Rob

Sorry, you have been told wrong. For high pressure hoses, worm drive or spring clips are not acceptable for BSS but properly crimped ones are.

from the regs...
Hose connections:
• must not be made using hose clamps fixed by spring
tension; and
• must be free of any missing components, cracks, burrs or
rough edges or signs of other damage or deterioration; and,
• must not be so narrow as to cut into the hose; and,
• must be suitably sized, that is, not so oversized that the
band forms an elliptical shape, or so undersized that
inadequate compression is achieved; and,
• must be appropriately tight, that is, not so loose that the
hose can be pulled forward or back under light manual force
nor so tight that the hose is excessively pinched.

For low pressure hoses, even worm drive is acceptable....
All low pressure LPG hose connections:
• must be accessible for inspection; and,
• must be part of pre-made hose assemblies of suitable proprietary
manufacture or use suitable nozzles secured by crimped or worm-drive clips;
and,
• must not be made using hose clamps fixed by spring tension; and
• must be free of any missing components, cracks, burrs or rough edges or
signs of other damage or deterioration; and,
• must not be so narrow as to cut into the hose; and,
• where made with crimped or worm-drive clamps, the clamps must be
suitably sized, that is, not so oversized that the band forms an elliptical
shape, or so undersized that inadequate compression is achieved;
 
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As a sealer I have a tube of Calortite - Calor's branded product for LPG systems. As far as I can tell it is identical to Red Hermetite that you can get from any car shop.
It's very messy.
 
Dont forget you should be replacing the hose every 5 years.
I have some nice stainless hose clamps ... with "2 ear" clips.?.

So the hoses dated 2000 should be replaced soon then. I haven't even looked behind the cooker yet, too much to think about. I will do so before I place any orders of course. Probably via this thread for more info.

Yes, I also use ear clamps.
 
If you are doing any flexible hose replacement and you need a braided external reinforcement then try and get a fabric reinforcement rather than stainless steel. Kevlar would be perfect. I don't think stainless is right for that job in boats. See the attached picture of how the stainless braid has corroded and is breaking up. It will be slowly cutting into this hose. It looks like a grease stain from a distance, but close up with a magnifying glass you can see the broken spikes.
IMG_0393_.jpg
 
So the hoses dated 2000 should be replaced soon then. I haven't even looked behind the cooker yet, too much to think about. I will do so before I place any orders of course. Probably via this thread for more info.

Yes, I also use ear clamps.

Yes although the hose will undoubtedly last longer than 5 years it eventually deteriorates.

Last year I fished out a bit of old LP hose, which looked fine, that I was going to use in place of some HP hose that I'd fitted previously. When I pushed it onto the nozzle it split length wise
 
Now I turn my attention to the gas bottle end...

I have a regulator for Campingaz with a M20x1.5 threaded outlet. I need to connect this via a 40-50cm hose to 8mm copper pipe at the other end, where I also need a 90° elbow.

Plenty of M20 pigtails on eBay, but none of them a standard thread the other end as far as I can see. I've tried looking on SoCal, but there is no listing for any ancillary equipment, and no search.

Do you have room for a bulkhead regulator? http://www.whayward.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=519
You can then just get the tap for the top of the Camping gas bottle and use a standard hosetail. It also makes using calor butane or propane a simple proposition in the future, only requiring the bottle connector.
 
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