Gas Bubble testers

[KREW2]

After doing the round the island I noticed a small amount of what looked like red powder under the cooker, it was soon evident that it was residue of my new gas hose that was rubbing on the cooker, professionally fitted I might add. This was only the second time I have used the cooker with the gimbal off so it shows how quickly it can wear.
I have just bought a new length of armoured hose, which I will reroute, and fit myself. Do I need to put any compound or sealer on the compression joints.
Secondly I have a manual gas alarm detector thingy, but I am considering fitting a "Bubble Tester" from these people http://www.socal.co.uk/9/211/16145
I would be interested to hear from anyone who has one, or has an opinion on them.

 

[rickym]

I cannot comment on bubble tester, but gas fittings need no jointing compound. you may like to use a little PTFE tape on the threads.

 

[snowleopard]

I cannot comment on bubble tester, but gas fittings need no jointing compound. you may like to use a little PTFE tape on the threads.

For a threaded joint there is a special 'gas quality' PTFE tape which is a lot thicker than the usual plumber's stuff. It is not needed for compression joints, i.e. those with olives.

A bubble tester is a good thing to have. Be sure you know how to use it correctly: Open all gas valves in the system, turn on all the burners but don't light them, then press the test button. That will check all parts of the system including the flame failure devices on the burners. NEVER press the button while any burner is alight as it will blow all the liquid out of the tester!

For more security is you are worried about chafing pipes a 'Gaslow' low-pressure valve will shut off the supply if there is a sudden drop in pressure in the pipe as might happen with a pipe rupture.

 

[DanTribe]

For a threaded joint there is a special 'gas quality' PTFE tape which is a lot thicker than the usual plumber's stuff. It is not needed for compression joints, i.e. those with olives.

A bubble tester is a good thing to have. Be sure you know how to use it correctly: Open all gas valves in the system, turn on all the burners but don't light them, then press the test button. That will check all parts of the system including the flame failure devices on the burners. NEVER press the button while any burner is alight as it will blow all the liquid out of the tester!

For more security is you are worried about chafing pipes a 'Gaslow' low-pressure valve will shut off the supply if there is a sudden drop in pressure in the pipe as might happen with a pipe rupture.

Are you sure!
I thought that you should test for leaks with all taps turned off, bubbles would then indicate that gas is still flowing. Surely your method would only indicate that you are filling the boat up with gas?

Sorry; just re-read it, your'e testing the flame failure devices. Duh!

 

[VicS]

After doing the round the island I noticed a small amount of what looked like red powder under the cooker, it was soon evident that it was residue of my new gas hose that was rubbing on the cooker, professionally fitted I might add. This was only the second time I have used the cooker with the gimbal off so it shows how quickly it can wear.
I have just bought a new length of armoured hose, which I will reroute, and fit myself. Do I need to put any compound or sealer on the compression joints.
Secondly I have a manual gas alarm detector thingy, but I am considering fitting a "Bubble Tester" from these people http://www.socal.co.uk/9/211/16145
I would be interested to hear from anyone who has one, or has an opinion on them.

No you should not put any compound, and very definitely not tape, on compression joints
Take care also not to over-tighten them. The object is to compress the olive on to the pipe without deforming the pipe.
Use copper olives rather than the brass ones.

SEE http://www.calormarinegas.co.uk/Compression

Check the joints, preferably with a leak detector spray, but otherwise with some very dilute washing up liquid. Clean it off afterwards as it is corrosive.

 

[Dipper]

I have one in my system. It seems to work well. I haven't yet had a leak so I haven't tested it in anger. The picture shows it installed along with a solenoid and bulkhead mounted regulator. The bottle has since been strapped down and the VHF speaker isn't connected.

Feel free to look on board any time.

 

[SimonA]

A bubble tester is a good thing to have. Be sure you know how to use it correctly: Open all gas valves in the system, turn on all the burners but don't light them, then press the test button. That will check all parts of the system including the flame failure devices on the burners. NEVER press the button while any burner is alight as it will blow all the liquid out of the tester!
.

That's not how the gas fitter said to use mine. He said to turn on gas, do not turn on appliances, press and hold tester for 20 seconds and check for bubbles.

 

[KREW2]

I have one in my system. It seems to work well. I haven't yet had a leak so I haven't tested it in anger. The picture shows it installed along with a solenoid and bulkhead mounted regulator. The bottle has since been strapped down and the VHF speaker isn't connected.

Feel free to look on board any time.

Thanks, that all looks very new, did you do it yourself?
I will now definitely fit one as my copper pipe must be as old as the boat, and well hidden, so this will show up any weakness.

 

[VicS]

The insructions on the Socal site read:

Testing Instructions

Open the cylinder valve.

Shut off ALL LPG burning appliances.

Depress the red testing button as far as it will go and hold in for about 10 seconds. Some bubbles may appear for approximately two seconds in the sight glass. Normally they will disappear completely within two seconds. If this occurs, keep the button depressed for a further ten seconds. If no bubbles appear during this ten-second period, the system is leak tight for the being. If bubbles appear, the system is leaking.

In case of leakage, first check that the instruction 2 above has been correctly carried out (you may have missed an appliance such as a fridge, for instance). Then check all connections with a leak detecting solution or spray. If no leak can be found consult your dealer to have the system checked out.​

 

[corinthmistral]

I fitted an Alde bubble tester this season - a fantastic piece of kit - simple, no electronics / batteries to worry about and easy to test whenever I turn the gas on at the bottle. You just push and hold it for a few seconds when you turn the gas on and no bubbles should be evident. I have tested it also when the burner is alight and you see a clear stream of bubbles moving through the liquid. If you are re-doing the system then in my opinion it would be a no brainer to fit this addition as well. I ordered mine (and all the other fittings) from www.gasproducts.co.uk - no link to the company, just a satisfied customer. (nb I had a month's wait for delivery on the bubble tester, as it took a while for it to come into stock - to be fair, the supplier kept me regularly updated.) Good luck!

 

[Vara]

That's not how the gas fitter said to use mine. He said to turn on gas, do not turn on appliances, press and hold tester for 20 seconds and check for bubbles.

The gas fitter was wrong then, Snowleopard's method gives a better check.(that's applying common sense I'm not Corgi/gas safe qualified).

Happy user of Alde bubble tester.

 

[Dipper]

Thanks, that all looks very new, did you do it yourself?
I will now definitely fit one as my copper pipe must be as old as the boat, and well hidden, so this will show up any weakness.

I fitted this myself and renewed the copper pipe at the same time. You can get the correct pipe (can't remember the BS number at the moment) from a plumbers merchant. I have a small pipe bender if you want to borrow it.

Make sure you buy the correct sized bubble tester for the pipe. I had a bit of trouble matching everything up. The Calor Gas Centre gave me an adapter to fit the bulkhead regulator that they supplied so that it matched my pipework which was the first problem. Then I had to match the heights of the fittings. You can see various thicknesses of backing ply to keep everything in a straight line. The pipe leading off to the left goes to a bulkhead fitting before entering the boat.

Fitting everything on the ply board at home made it a lot easier. The entire assembly then only had to be attached to the bulkhead fitting and screwed on to the flexible pipe at the other end. You may only have the bubbler to fit which will be easier.

It all passed the recent survey.

 

[Pete7]

The gas fitter was wrong then, Snowleopard's method gives a better check.

But it assumes the cooker has flame failure devices on all burners when a lot of the older cookers don't.

Pete

 

[pvb]

I have one in my system. It seems to work well. I haven't yet had a leak so I haven't tested it in anger. The picture shows it installed along with a solenoid and bulkhead mounted regulator. The bottle has since been strapped down and the VHF speaker isn't connected.

Feel free to look on board any time.

Wouldn't it have been preferable to put the bubble tester immediately after the regulator, and before the solenoid valve?

 

[Dipper]

Wouldn't it have been preferable to put the bubble tester immediately after the regulator, and before the solenoid valve?

I did think about the safest way to install these and in the end I followed some guidelines I found on the internet. The solenoid is linked to the gas alarm sensors so if there is a leak getting into the boat I wanted the solenoid to cut off as much of the system as possible. If it was a stand alone solenoid not linked to the alarm system then it would probably have been better to fit it after the bubbler as you are inferring.

 

[KREW2]

I fitted this myself and renewed the copper pipe at the same time. You can get the correct pipe (can't remember the BS number at the moment) from a plumbers merchant. I have a small pipe bender if you want to borrow it.

Make sure you buy the correct sized bubble tester for the pipe. I had a bit of trouble matching everything up. The Calor Gas Centre gave me an adapter to fit the bulkhead regulator that they supplied so that it matched my pipework which was the first problem.

It all passed the recent survey.

The rubber flexi pipework from the regulator is 8ml which connects to 8ml copper pipe that goes through a bulkhead and vanishes into the abyss, so I can use an 8ml bubble tester. The odd thing is it emerges at the bottom of the cooker well as a tap, the feed out from the tap is 6ml, so, without being able to see behind the scenes I don't know where the reduction takes place, I'm assuming the tap has an 8ml inlet and a 6ml outlet.

 

[pvb]

I did think about the safest way to install these and in the end I followed some guidelines I found on the internet. The solenoid is linked to the gas alarm sensors so if there is a leak getting into the boat I wanted the solenoid to cut off as much of the system as possible. If it was a stand alone solenoid not linked to the alarm system then it would probably have been better to fit it after the bubbler as you are inferring.

I can't see that makes any difference at all. The bubble tester should be as close to the source of the gas as possible. If your solenoid valve were to be leaking, your bubble tester wouldn't detect it.

 

[KREW2]

I can't see that makes any difference at all. The bubble tester should be as close to the source of the gas as possible. If your solenoid valve were to be leaking, your bubble tester wouldn't detect it.

Ok rip it out and start again.

 

[Boo2]

After doing the round the island I noticed a small amount of what looked like red powder under the cooker, it was soon evident that it was residue of my new gas hose that was rubbing on the cooker, professionally fitted I might add. This was only the second time I have used the cooker with the gimbal off so it shows how quickly it can wear.
I have just bought a new length of armoured hose, which I will reroute, and fit myself.

As an aside, I've just been told over the phone by a gas fitter that if a cooker on a boat is gimballed then it needs to be stainless mesh (or something) hose between the copper pipe and the cooker. My copper pipe is 35 years old and has 3/8" diameter which means the ss hose is a special order, sigh. Anyone happen to know whether my fitter is correct in this instance (I believe him,but...).

Boo2

 

[snowleopard]

But it assumes the cooker has flame failure devices on all burners when a lot of the older cookers don't.

If your cooker doesn't have flame failure devices (working properly) on all burners there is only one thing you should use it for - a mooring sinker.

If a burner blows out and you don't notice it the gas will go down into the bilge forming an explosive mix. Even if it doesn't get ignited by a spark and blow boat and crew to kingdom come, it could get sucked into the intake of a diesel causing it to run away.