Galvanised wire dressing mixtures?

[Mirelle]

I use boiled linseed oil with the end of a can of varnish mixed in (roughly 3:1) to make it go off.

I switched to this from anhydrous lanolin because the latter picked up dirt from the air and marked sails more.

I once saw the standing rigging of "Charmina", Kevin O'Riordan's Albert Strange yawl; the wires had been dressed with so many coats of linseed that they were quite smooth, a dark brown colour, and very supple; I should think they would last for ever.

What mixtures do others favour?

 

[Guest]

Of course what you\'ve discovered is

Gloss Red oxide. I've never tried the varnish trick that have been using linseed oil on iron and steel for years. Now I can have a shiny launching trolley!

-{)>

 

[Mirelle]

Re: Of course what you\'ve discovered is

Good varnish is tung oil (mainly) plus a few other bits and pieces, and driers. The driers kick off the linseed. Not worth using a can of usable varnish, but a way to use up the stuff underneath the thick skin at the bottom of the can you did not finish last year!

 

[Peterduck]

I am doing this chore on my 1917 ketch at the moment while the sticks are out of the boat. I use a preparation which the old wool clipper sailors called "slush". It consists of equal parts of stockholm tar, boiled linseed oil,and turpentine, with a small amount of terebine to dry the mixture. The proportion of terebine is usually given on the container. The tar does the preservation, the oil reacts withthe terebine to drythe whole lot, and the turpentine thins the mixture down to allow it to penetrate the lay of the rope.
The very best preservative is Coal Tar Enamel, but it is almost impossible to get these days. I belive that it has to applied hot, and the fumes will not advance your health one little bit. A successor to this is Coal Tar Epoxy, which I have not used.
Shell make a range of liquids for the mothballing of ships and machinery which could have a very good application here. They are sold under the name of Ensis Fluid. The lightest dries to a soft grease which penetrates well, but does not last in exposed condtions. The heaviest end of the range dries to a black tar, and is suitable for prolonged exposure. Being industrial liquids, they are sold in industrial quantities, 20 litres / 5 gallons being the smallest can that I could buy. The price was industrial, too; about Au$1.00 per litre.
I have also tried with some success, Bituminous Emulsion. This is used by road asphalting contractors to bind the asphalt to the road base beneath. It is filthy stuff to work with, and one has to wipe off the excess from the outside of the rope, but it penetrates the rope well, and forms a fine film of bitumen on the wires ofthe rope.
Peter

 

[Mirelle]

Thank you for a most informative reply. One difficulty is getting hold of terebene, but I think I shall pay a visit to my local paint makers...

 

[gipsygirl1]

Some classic boats use sweet tar.