mick
Well-Known Member
The Harken catalogue suggests using one of their Carbo ratchet blocks as part of a headsail furling setup, but they don't make it clear what the advantages are. Does anyone have experience of this system?
Furling with a ratchet block
- Thread starter mick
- Start date
ditchcrawler
Well-Known Member
I used one this year fixed to the stanchion by the cockpit.It cost over £40 and it was OK for a while.However when I furled my genny in a blow it desintegrated.I was not pleased.I probably should have taken it back to the chandlers and complained but I just put it down to experience.My boat is a Moody 31 by the way so not a very big genny.
pvb
Well-Known Member
I don't use a Carbo block, but I can recommend Harken's 7403 Carbo lead blocks for stanchions. These are brilliant little ball bearing blocks which take the furling line outside the stanchions, clearing the deck, and - best of all - remove most of the friction in the line. I've recently fitted these, and I'm very pleased with them.
snooks
Well-Known Member
The advantage is that the line won't pull back through and the sail won't unfurl as long as you keep pressure on the line.
A single jammer from spinlock does the same but with a lot more control on the line for a few more pounds
Poignard
Well-Known Member
I use a small Clamcleat. Cheap and works fine.
Stork_III
Well-Known Member
Ricd
Well-Known Member
I have used one for years...its great and flexible on angle so you don't drag a groove in the coming. It allows you to let out just as much head sail as you want and no more and assists in pulling it back in again. I think mine was a Robstan
pvb
Well-Known Member
Another example of crazy US/UK pricing - the Harken blocks are cheaper than Schaefer on US websites! Still reckon the Harken ones are neater and worth £30.
pagoda
Well-Known Member
I've taken the furling line from a small block 2 stanchions from the bow back over the coach roof (through another block- just to tidy the route) in almost a straight line to a spare jammer. I just run the furling line round a coach roof winch, release the jammer and I have good control of the rate at which I unfurl the genoa, or stop at whatever amount I want it reefed.
It's a fairly straight pull when furling (in) as well, and avoids the 90deg bend to follow the toe rail to the bow.
There are all sort of ways of doing this. A ratchet sounds fine but the loads are pretty substantial if you are dealing with a big genny in a fair blow.
Graeme
Monique
Well-Known Member
How are they fastened on your stanchions? Do you have to remove the safety lines?
Thank you.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
No. Lift the stanchion out of the base a couple of inches, slide on the block, then put the stanchion back into its base. The block is secured with a hexagon socket screw which is accessible through a hole in the sheave.
I have had some on my boat for more than 12 years and they are really very good.
Stork_III
Well-Known Member
I think I did get a 25% discount as I was wearing my sailing club sweat shirt, so perhaps not the pricing difference I quoted for most people. I prefer the look of of the Schaefer, better suited to the HR style I think.
Ricd
Well-Known Member
Sorry it was a "Ronstan" ratchet block 55mm....used it for 6 years after I replace my dinghy main with a Harken Carbo.
Conachair
Guest
I use a ratchet block on the furling line, really helps. i can furl from anywhere in the cockpit with one hand and realease the sheet at the same time with the other without having to hold the load on the furling line all the time, the ratchet takes care of that.
Works very well on my boat anyway.
Lady Campanula
N/A
I like this idea. It solves a problem, and I'll implement it...
Thanks.
Thanks.
mick
Well-Known Member
Thanks, all.
lw395
Well-Known Member
The point is, it makes it easy to maintain a drag on the furling line when un-furling, which keeps the line tidy and tight on the drum. This avoids the tangles you will get if the line is allowed to go slack. I use a turn on a winch on one of the boats I sail on, it happens to be convenient.
The Harken gear I had was very free-running, so perhaps more prone to unwinding fast and over-running than some other makes? I rate the Harken as the best I've used though. Because the friction is low, you can reef withthe sail set, not flogging.
The Harken gear I had was very free-running, so perhaps more prone to unwinding fast and over-running than some other makes? I rate the Harken as the best I've used though. Because the friction is low, you can reef withthe sail set, not flogging.
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William_H
Well-Known Member
Furling line
When I look at the price of a rachet block or a decent rope clutch the cost is approaching that of a small cheap winch. A winch I think is a far better arrangement and gives more power for a weaker person to pull in the furling line or to let the line out with control.
But then you would never see me with a furling jib. I left behind 2 Beneteau's last night a 32ft and a 39 ft when hard on the wind in a race by pointing my 21fter closer to the wind and with quicker tacking. I reckon it was the big furling jib that slowed them down. (stop ranting willy)
When I look at the price of a rachet block or a decent rope clutch the cost is approaching that of a small cheap winch. A winch I think is a far better arrangement and gives more power for a weaker person to pull in the furling line or to let the line out with control.
But then you would never see me with a furling jib. I left behind 2 Beneteau's last night a 32ft and a 39 ft when hard on the wind in a race by pointing my 21fter closer to the wind and with quicker tacking. I reckon it was the big furling jib that slowed them down. (stop ranting willy)