Furlex Jib Furling System - changing line

[BrianH]

I have an old (ca. 30 years) Furlex (Seldén) Jib Furling system that needs a new furling line. However, at a cursory inspection this looks as though it may not be easy to remove and replace at the drum, as the line disappears into the drum body with no obvious access, unless I'm missing something. The unit is perilously close to the bow overhang and no place to be disassembling fiddly components - potential whoops factor.

I note from the original sales brochure on the boat that the unit is supplied with the line already affixed in the box so it doesn't look like a simple hole to pass the line through and to knot.

Has anyone any experience of renewing this line?

 

[alteredoutlook]

You dont mention what type of Furlex you have.

However, I'm sure you will find the relevant manual (probably somewhere towards the bottom) on the selden website - http://www.seldenmast.com/page.cfm?id=5564.

This will describe how to do it

 

[pvb]

Has anyone any experience of renewing this line?

Yes, it's incredibly easy. You'll probably find it easier to locate the correct assembly manual if you follow this link rather than the one alteredoutlook suggested.

 

[BrianH]

You dont mention what type of Furlex you have.

That's the problem, even the brochure has no model number or designation - it's probably the first one they made. It is only referred to as "FURLEX, Jib Furling and Reefing System"

Thanks for the link, it looks very comprehensive, but nothing there as antique as my system - still working perfectly, by the way.

 

[BrianH]

Yes, it's incredibly easy. You'll probably find it easier to locate the correct assembly manual if you follow this link rather than the one alteredoutlook suggested.

Thanks for that, I shall have to download the potential candidates one at a time (currently underway) to identify them - a tedious business as I'm anchored in Italy on a flaky 3G connection that is slow and intermittent.

But it is truly comforting to read your "it's incredibly easy" comment.

 

[pvb]

Thanks for that, I shall have to download the potential candidates one at a time (currently underway) to identify them - a tedious business as I'm anchored in Italy on a flaky 3G connection that is slow and intermittent.

But it is truly comforting to read your "it's incredibly easy" comment.

Obviously start by looking at the Type A manual. Mine's a Type C, and I replaced the line last year in a few minutes.

If you can't find a manual for your system, email Selden; they're very helpful.

 

[Hoolie]

... ... ... Has anyone any experience of renewing this line?

I replaced the line on my Furlex, can't remember the exact model. The drum is in two halves, clipped together with plastic lugs you have to prise apart with a screwdriver. It can then be removed and the line re-knotted. Easy enough to do but I tied cord to each part to avoid bits going over the bow.

 

[BrianH]

Easy enough to do but I tied cord to each part to avoid bits going over the bow.

Good idea, I had thought to spread some spare mosquito netting under the bow but with my luck whatever I am likely to drop will be sure to slip or bounce out - your system is better.

 

[Boathook]

I replaced the line on my Furlex, can't remember the exact model. The drum is in two halves, clipped together with plastic lugs you have to prise apart with a screwdriver. It can then be removed and the line re-knotted. Easy enough to do but I tied cord to each part to avoid bits going over the bow.

The instructions for mine, either the 200S or 300S suggest leave a couple of wraps of the reefing line round the drum. There are also a few small fiddly bits that are easy to drop overboard as well. They do sink quickly ....!

 

[Ruffles]

Good idea, I had thought to spread some spare mosquito netting under the bow but with my luck whatever I am likely to drop will be sure to slip or bounce out - your system is better.

Or take a large cardboard box and cut down one side and into the centre. Then slip under the drum. Doesn't work so well in the rain though...

 

[chrisbailey]

And while you have got the drum off grease the bearings with waterproof grease. when you find the manual it will show you where to squeeze the grease in. by a tube of lewmar grease which comes in a large toothpaste type of tube which makes it easier to apply.

 

[pvb]

And while you have got the drum off grease the bearings with waterproof grease. when you find the manual it will show you where to squeeze the grease in. by a tube of lewmar grease which comes in a large toothpaste type of tube which makes it easier to apply.

You don't have to take the drum off to grease the bearings!

 

[CLP]

I carried out some intricate repairs to my 10 year old Furlex this season and the Furlex people were very helpful with advice before hand.

To minimise risk of losing bits (including bearing balls in my case) I set up a halyard to hold the mast and disconnected the forestay from the bow, thus allowing me to move everything back down the foredeck a bit. I was going to put the unit into a bucket to catch anything which fell out while I took it apart, but in the event the wide expanse of the foredeck was adequate to do the job.

With the help from Furlex and the copies of drawings they sent me, it all went perfectly.

 

[wilkinsonsails]

Make sure that the furling line is replacing like for like ,probably fairly hard core braid on braid.It may be stripped of the core for the first few feet so that it allows sufficient turns on the drum.
Count the turns so that you get the same number and always make sure that you have at least three around the drum when the sail is properly rolled up.

On a couple of occasions with overhanging bows,we have improvised with
1
Cheap plastic bucket split in a quarter cut and sprung round the forestay.
(washing up bowl works too).
2
Umbrella! ,I was presented with one on a Dutch yachts foredeck,it confused me slightly, until it's owner demonstrated it upside-down under the gear.
3
Make sure bow overhangs pontoon or jetty ,spread out cover or sail bag.

Count the balls .
Make sure you don't have any bits left over

 

[pvb]

Count the balls .

Isn't this unnecessary scaremongering?? Simply replacing the furling line doesn't involve any procedure which might allow ball bearings to come out.

 

[wilkinsonsails]

Yes,but we have had customers undoing the wrong bits and wondering why all the balls fell out .How do I know how many ball there are !.
Putting the races back together.

 

[C&C Tom]

I see it's been a few years since your post (!) but I am currently looking for an answer to the same question. I am using a Furlex Type B Mk II jib furling and reefing system. [Replacing the furling line.]
The manual provides no instructions for this procedure. I have sent an email message to a Selden address with hopes of a reply.
Did you find a solution?
Thankss
-Tom

I have an old (ca. 30 years) Furlex (Seldén) Jib Furling system that needs a new furling line. However, at a cursory inspection this looks as though it may not be easy to remove and replace at the drum, as the line disappears into the drum body with no obvious access, unless I'm missing something. The unit is perilously close to the bow overhang and no place to be disassembling fiddly components - potential whoops factor.

I note from the original sales brochure on the boat that the unit is supplied with the line already affixed in the box so it doesn't look like a simple hole to pass the line through and to knot.

Has anyone any experience of renewing this line?

 

[pvb]

I see it's been a few years since your post (!) but I am currently looking for an answer to the same question. I am using a Furlex Type B Mk II jib furling and reefing system. [Replacing the furling line.]
The manual provides no instructions for this procedure.

The manual does tell you how to do it - top of page 12 - http://www.seldenmast.com/files/1426855952/595-018-E.pdf

Edit: PS welcome to the forums

 

[johnalison]

You don't have to take the drum off to grease the bearings!

It may depend on the model but with mine it is recommended to take the drum off in alternate years to lubricate the part that is involved with the first turn and a half. I only ever do this when laid up ashore.