Furler line via stanchion mounted fairleads ?

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Boo2

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Hi,

Is it reasonable to run the genoa furler line back to a cockpit cleat via stanchion mounted fairleads instead of via deck mounted fairleads to a winch via rope clutch ?

All the boats I've sailed on have had the latter arrangement but it would be useful to me to free up a rope clutch and winch access so I wondered if anyone here is using the stanchion fairleads / cleat approach ?

Boat is a UFO 34

Thanks,

Boo2
 
Yes I have eye bolts and eye nuts stanchion fixings that I run my genoa furler line through. I have a block towards the bow mounted on my pulpit to give a mice lead from the furler drum to the stanchion eye bolts. I also have a cleat on my pushpit close to my outside steering also using a block to bring the furling line up from the toe rail level to the top rail of the pushpit.
 
Yes. Very common arrangement Both Barton and Spinlock make them. The range is on p146 of the Force 4 catalogue.
 
If you feel like spoiling yourself get the Harken ones. Pricy but well worth it for the advantages. Very low friction like most Harken gear, but most important the furling line runs OUTSIDE the stanchions so is not a nuisance on the deck
 
Leighb said:
If you feel like spoiling yourself get the Harken ones. Pricy but well worth it for the advantages. Very low friction like most Harken gear, but most important the furling line runs OUTSIDE the stanchions so is not a nuisance on the deck
Click to expand...

I'd second that! The Harken ones are superb, double blocks on ball bearings, almost no friction.
 
Daydream believer said:
I found that the fairleads fitted to stanchions slip up wards due to upward pull from the winch & also at furler end
Click to expand...

Good point, but it can be avoided by having something other than a stanchion fairlead at each end. I have a small block that turns the line upwards towards the drum forward (note to the OP - make sure your line points naturally at the middle of the drum, at 90º to its axis, to prevent jams), and a clutch at the aft end more or less in the scupper, followed by a block shackled to the rail to give a more natural direction of pull.

Putting the furling line on a winch is verboten on Ariam, since literally every time I've ever known it done (on charter boats) it has ended with either an impossible jam or something breaking.

Pete
 
+1 for the Harken kit. At the cockpit end I have a "floating " spinlock locking block, that's the one with the built in jammer.
Getting rid of the foredeck trip hazard was a priority when I bought my Jeanneau new.
 
Never furl the jib of a 34 Ft boat with a winch.
If you cant pull it in by hand, there's something wrong.
If you have to put it on a winch, you'll bust something.
 
nigelmercier said:
Makes a real tripping hazard at the gates in the rails though.
Click to expand...

We don't have gates on a 30' boat.:D However the line is a trip hazard in a gateway whether it is in or outside the stanchions I would have thought?

Re winching, we do put the line round a winch, but only use it as a snubber and it also gives a better angle of pull, however I have never used the winch with a handle in it as not needed.
 
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Leighb said:
If you feel like spoiling yourself get the Harken ones. Pricy but well worth it for the advantages. Very low friction like most Harken gear, but most important the furling line runs OUTSIDE the stanchions so is not a nuisance on the deck
Click to expand...

pvb said:
I'd second that! The Harken ones are superb, double blocks on ball bearings, almost no friction.
Click to expand...

Do you guys mean these : http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=4534&taxid=544 ?

Got to admit that I don't understand how they are supposed to work ? Are they intended to be arranged with one block inboard and the other outboard ? I only need a single line to come back for my furler...

Debenair said:
+1 for the Harken kit. At the cockpit end I have a "floating " spinlock locking block, that's the one with the built in jammer.
Click to expand...
Linky ?

Thanks,

Boo2
 
nigelmercier said:
Makes a real tripping hazard at the gates in the rails though.
Click to expand...

prv said:
Unlikely to have geriatric gates on a UFO 34 though :)
Click to expand...

No gates, but I did wonder how it would affect threading a mooring line through the new (soon to be installed) central mooring fairlead though...

If I run the furling line just below the lower guard wire it should be OK I think.


Boo2
 
Boo2 said:
Do you guys mean these : http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=4534&taxid=544 ?

Got to admit that I don't understand how they are supposed to work ? Are they intended to be arranged with one block inboard and the other outboard ? I only need a single line to come back for my furler...

Boo2
Click to expand...


No like this

P1000164_2.JPG


Oh rats you will have to click the link ... http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_LFAOJu6svYU/S6RbY1B-U-I/AAAAAAAAGqk/DBN0W_81Dqw/s1600-h/P1000164_2.JPG

Very nice
but there are simpler things...... http://sailkerkyra.com/images/Stanchion_block.jpg
 
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Boo2 said:
No gates, but I did wonder how it would affect threading a mooring line through the new (soon to be installed) central mooring fairlead though...

If I run the furling line just below the lower guard wire it should be OK I think.


Boo2
Click to expand...

The higher you run the line the greater the inward pull leverage on the mounting of the stanchion
 
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