Fumper Restoration

[soulrebel]

Hi

I have recently purchased 'Fumper' which is a Hilyard 8 Tonner. I have been slowly but surely working on her in my free time. This weekend I got the sanding of the topsides done. I noticed whilst doing this that the seams between the planks have what I believe is called red lead in them and a string behind. The string is fine and doesnt need replacing. However the red lead is old and is dry and comes out easily. I intend to replace this with sikaflex 291. My question is if I do this when I eventually put her back in the water and she naturally swells up. Won't the sikaflex bulge out at each seam?
Ruining the beautiful paint job that I intend for her.

Any advice would be much appreciated

 

[johnlilley]

Ref. topsides.
Hi there, I suspect she has dried out a bit (or a lot) and whatever you do, you will most likely find the seams crack or show movement once she has been launched, and sad to say, a perfect finish may not be possible for a couple of years, perhaps the best thing is to prepare properly so the paint sticks well, but not to worry too much about the "perfect" finish at this time as she will need time to stabilise.

Filling the seams with Sikaflex might be considered an expensive, messy and unnecessary procedure, and, in my opinion you are better off using the original red lead putty in all ways. It is flexible but easier to fair back and repaint when required. The underlying string is just cotton caulking cotton, but make sure it remains in the seam and is not falling out. Add red lead powder to linseed putty. Far less expensive and less messy.

Regards

John

 

[Seanick]

Agree with the above. Skip the sika.

 

[Wansworth]

I worked at Hillyards very briefly and remember Fumper.Anyway stick with the putty .I remember spending days puttying upa 12 tonner (Under guidance).The best thing for wooden boats is they should bekept afloat or in a mud berth.If the b oat is in such a position it gets the sun always in the same place this can open upthe seams,this happened to a 4 tonner I owned,leaked gallons when we went sailing in a breeze.

 

[Vitalba]

I agree with all of the above.
Your problem was raised in Zeeuw`s post 14-12-09 and my comments to that dated 17-12-09 may be of interest. I did not mention however that I did firm up the cotton caulking ( and was warned that this can be over done).
Over the winter she tightened still more to the extent that in some places the stopping burst the the paint along the seams. The water got in, froze and left a terrible mess which I had been told would happen after she was launched. At least the loose paint came off with out much trouble and was easy to patch up on the land. On balance I`d prefer it that way round as it does allow you to make a good sound job of the patching which is essential if any thing like a decent finish is to obtained in the future, never the less it is very disappointing either way.
My real concern was that having touched up the defects she would dryout again in the spring but she was launch in time and seems to be stablising nicely. Hope this helps.
VITALBA

 

[Wandering Star]

Is there a special putty to use or are we talking standard glazing putty? And what exactly is red lead, where do I obtain it and how is it mixed and in what ratio with the putty? If the caulking cotton is sound then is it just a matter of trowelling it on and forcing it hard into the seam or does the seam need treating with something first in order to provide good adhesion?

Cheers, Brian.

 

[Lyulph Hesling]

Seaware, of Penryn, sell the materials, mail order, go www.seaware.co.uk

Their recipe for STOPPING is: mix sufficient red lead powder with raw linseed oil putty to turn pale pink,add white lead paste (one teaspoon per kilo of putty) mix thoroughly. Apply to seams

You can also add grease, or raw linseed oil, if the mixture is too dry to work.

"Pale pink" is a variable item, very pale and it sets very slowly (months), dark "John West" pink sets in a few days. Make a few trial mixes and see what happens.

Rake out any loose or poor old stopping before filling. Get an expert to check the caulking material (cotton or oakum string) is okay to use. It probably will be.

Expect the seams to close after launching, which will force some stopping out, raising seams along the plank lines. This a GOOD THING. You can sand it flat next winter.

 

[quimby]

Seaware, of Penryn, sell the materials, mail order, go www.seaware.co.uk

Their recipe for STOPPING is: mix sufficient red lead powder with raw linseed oil putty to turn pale pink,add white lead paste (one teaspoon per kilo of putty) mix thoroughly. Apply to seams

You can also add grease, or raw linseed oil, if the mixture is too dry to work.

"Pale pink" is a variable item, very pale and it sets very slowly (months), dark "John West" pink sets in a few days. Make a few trial mixes and see what happens.

Rake out any loose or poor old stopping before filling. Get an expert to check the caulking material (cotton or oakum string) is okay to use. It probably will be.

Expect the seams to close after launching, which will force some stopping out, raising seams along the plank lines. This a GOOD THING. You can sand it flat next winter.

Reading all the above, makes me wonder if I should buy another wooden yacht!
They do seem to give more pleasure than plastic.