Fuel tank leak

Fr J Hackett said:
I am afraid that Bouba is in for a torrid time of it. Even if it isn't the tank it looks as though fuel has found it's way between the liner and the hull so unless there is a way to clean that space from above if he doesn't want a persistent smell of diesel in the boat it is going to have to be tank out and perhaps engine, cut away the liner thoroughly clean then rebound and glass the liner back into place. A new tank will be the least of of his worries and expenses.
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or sling some bilge cleaner / cat urine treatment down there which will eat up the smell making molecules?
 
Fr J Hackett said:
I am afraid that Bouba is in for a torrid time of it. Even if it isn't the tank it looks as though fuel has found it's way between the liner and the hull so unless there is a way to clean that space from above if he doesn't want a persistent smell of diesel in the boat it is going to have to be tank out and perhaps engine, cut away the liner thoroughly clean then rebound and glass the liner back into place. A new tank will be the least of of his worries and expenses.
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Ok I’m not going to do that! I will pour vinegar and baking soda into the hull and then pump it out. After doing that several times I will use a proprietary bilge cleaning product. It will smell as sweet as
 
Bouba said:
Ok I’m not going to do that! I will pour vinegar and baking soda into the hull and then pump it out. After doing that several times I will use a proprietary bilge cleaning product. It will smell as sweet as
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Hope that works but I wouldn't hold my breath, or perhaps that's the answer. ;) How are you going to address the saturated insulation material.
 
Mr Googler said:
In the bilge…under the liner you want cut out?
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I don't know but having an engine mounted above a liner with a space below it wouldn't be good for noise as it would likely act as a sounding board so to address the stupidity of putting a liner there in the first place the builders probably included some form of sound deadening or perhaps not.
 
We are drip fed info on here .Sorry no pun intended . :D .

We never got or saw pics to a conclusion to the Passerelle thread either .

Just random posts by folks the time lines stretch it gets repetitive.Eh pressure testing …..I covered that waaaaay back .

First the diagnosis is yet to be confirmed, there has been no pull/ plug the pipes yet .Still awaiting any anodic protection / yellow green wire pics to the AL .

Bouba logically explain the rationale for just simply swapping out the AL with SS .I thought we ( well me ? ) went over the disadvantages of SS namely welds are harder to get right in the field and it’s more brittle , less flexible than AL .Sure they all pass a 1.5 bar bow test in the shop .It’s what happens in the field many moons later that counts .

So a frame mount is essential with SS .You must insulate it from the gen and inevitably flexing of the hull, be it at sea or on the hard .
It ain’t a material fault this ( assuming it’s the tank btw ) Its a instal issue .

Flexing .Or corrosion from a metal object like a washer or self tapper in contact with the outer skin .

So if the tank is scrap , if you copy the existing instal that new one irrespective of material will end up scrap too .

You need a frame isolated from the hull .
Air gaps for inspections .
Add in sight glasses ( actually cocked plastic pipe )
Lower drain taps .
Ideally inspection hatches .

Go to 4.3 see to 5.3 .


Bouba could you have a tank like this set up ?

BTW ….Passerelle pics and your modifications to strengthen the transom ps :)
 
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Portofino said:
We are drop fed info on here .Sorry no pun intended .
We never got or saw pics to a conclusion to the Passerelle thread either .
Just random posts by folks the time lines stretch it gets repetitive.Eh pressure testing …..I covered that waaaaay back .

First the diagnosis is yet to be confirmed, there has been no pull/ plug the pipes yet .Still awaiting any anodic protection / yellow green wire pics to the AL .

Bouba logically explain the rationale for just simply swapping out the AL with SS .I thought we ( well me ? ) went over the disadvantages of SS namely welds are harder to get right in the field and it’s more brittle , less flexible than AL .
So a frame mount is essential with SS .You must insulate it from the gen and inevitably flexing of the hull, be it at sea or on the hard .
It ain’t a material fault this ( assuming it’s the tank btw ) Its a instal issue .

Flexing .Or corrosion from a metal object like a washer or self tapper in contact with the outer skin .

So if the tank is scrap , if you copy the existing instal that new one irrespective of material will end up scrap too .

You need a frame isolated from the hull .
Air gaps for inspections .
Add in sight glasses ( actually cocked plastic pipe )
Lower drain taps .
Ideally inspection hatches .

Go to 4.3
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The information is coming as quick as I discover it. Think of it like a detective series on tv, the clues come sporadically, I’m the lead detective on the case but you at home get to chip in ??????
 
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Portofino said:
Flexing .Or corrosion from a metal object like a washer or self tapper in contact with the outer skin .

So if the tank is scrap , if you copy the existing instal that new one irrespective of material will end up scrap too .
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Eh? I know you like to make out that the Itama way is the only way (along with yet another irrelevant video) but if the the damage is caused by a self tapper and that's sorted then there's no reason why the same fate would befall a replacement tank?
 
Bouba said:
The information is coming as quick as I discover it. Think of it like a detective series on tv, the clues come sporadically, I’m the lead detective on the case but you at home get it chip in ??????
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petem said:
Eh? I know you like to make out that the Itama way is the only way (along with yet another irrelevant video) but if the the damage is caused by a self tapper and that's sorted then there's no reason why the same fate would befall a replacement tank?
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If a metallic object most likely a screw or something ( cathode ) drops in between / down / rolls in ) in between the insulation with a freshly copied install when replacing it like for like .= de ja vue .

Not thinking some one s screwed on in from the other side of a cabin .Credit the builders with a bit of nouse PeteM .I do .

Theres many good reasons for following as close a poss what’s on the vid from 4.3 .
If he starting all over .
Eg v basic stuff a cylindrical tank has fewer welds and ( baffles aside ) is more rigid in a flexing sense then a rectangle. Note the curved surfaces even the ends .This is school boy stuff .

The relevance of the vid is simply a picture paints a 1000 words .Does not stop me thought :D !
How ever if you have not got an engineering brain then I understand your “ irrelevant Vid “:comment.
But this threads all about system failure from an engineering pov , so the followers I assume are wearing there engineering hats ? Yes ? Thus see relevance of the vid re a tank instal in a mo bo - Yes ?,

Time wise I just happen to quickly to able to access Itama images that’s all .
But the principles stand .re tank instal .

I will go further if it had been installed in a similar manner, the access to the sides Bouba will know straight away where a leak was .Or it just simply would not leak in the first place .

Expect you could show us a few FL tanks instals …..Dare you !

So Bouba did you find a grounding wire bolted on anywhere ?
My other Itama pics - sorry PeteM .
Aluminium acts as an anode if metals from bolts , self tappers , loose washers come into contact = pin hole corrosion .Nice to connect the thing to your zincs so they go instead of the tank .- who disagrees ??

I mean sans inspection port for all we know there might be a SS washer sat inside the tank , slowly fizzing a pin hole .
Again who knows ?
 
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Portofino said:
If a metallic object most likely a screw or something ( cathode ) drops in between / down / rolls in ) in between the insulation with a freshly copied install when replacing it like for like .= de ja vue .

Not thinking some one s screwed on in from the other side of a cabin .Credit the builders with a bit of nouse PeteM .I do .

Theres many good reasons for following as close a poss what’s on the vid from 4.3 .
If he starting all over .
Eg v basic stuff a cylindrical tank has fewer welds and ( baffles aside ) is more rigid in a flexing sense then a rectangle.

The relevance of the vid is simply a picture paints a 1000 words .Does not stop me thought :D !

Time wise I just happen to quickly to able to access Itama images that’s all .
But the principles stand .re tank instal .

I will go further if it had been installed in a similar manner, the access to the sides Bouba will know straight away where a leak was .Or it just simply would not leak in the first place .

Expect you could show us a few FL tanks instals …..Dare you !

So Bouba did you find a grounding wire bolted on anywhere ?
My other Itama pics - sorry PeteM .
Aluminium acts as an anode if metals from bolts , self tappers , loose washers come into contact = pin hole corrosion .Nice to connect the thing to your zincs so they go instead of the tank .- who disagrees ??

I mean sans inspection port for all we know there might be a SS washer sat inside the tank , slowly fizzing a pin hole .
Again who knows ?
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I will come to how to mount the new tank when the time comes. I haven’t found a bonding wire as yet
 
Could you get 2 wedge shape plastic tanks in with the current access?

Could have 2 completely independent supplies then, separate pre filters etc.. with swap over valve
 
Bouba said:
So following on to the previous post...where can I source a new 800l stainless steel tank from?
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I would not return to SS tanks. My boat's first pair both failed at the welded seams. A bit of water and some differences in SS sheet and welding rods quickly corroded and leaked. Plastic is good if properly supported and sharp objects removed.
 
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