Froggies 2011 Adventure - Part 8

oceanfroggie

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Part 8 - Sherkin Island to Dingle – 75nm in 8hr (06:20-14:20)

This was the 2nd part of a two passage leg to move the boat from East Ferry marina in Cork to Dingle. If I could get the boat as far as Dingle, then she would be within only one days striking distance of the Shannon Estuary. Then I’d only be looking for three days settled weather in September to get her home to Killaloe on Lough Derg (ie two days for swell to dissipate and one day to get to Kilrush or Foynes).

06:30 shortly after leaving the anchorage off Sherkin Island near Baltimore in west Cork. Beacon Point in the back ground with Lot’s Wife tower. I decided to start early for the 75nm passage to Dingle as the forecast suggested conditions could deteriorate significantly after lunch.
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Sea Area forecast issued 0600 that morning was good for the first half of the day. Ideally I had hoped to cruise all the way to Dingle at displacement speeds, but the possibility of F6 from noon onwards suggested I’d have to go faster for part of the passage anyway.

Sunburst east of Clear Island. For now I was happy making 7kt as the conditions were so nice and I just wanted to relax.
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South of Clear Island I got some wonderful company. A pod of Dolphins escorted me for 45 minutes. They playfully zig zagged, dived and weaved, ducking and diving off the bow.
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Fastnet Rock light house on a beautiful morning. I pondered what a different place this might be during a typical Atlantic storm, especially in years gone by when these famous old houses were manned for months on end.
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Mizen head – Once past this headland I had expected the sea might deteriorate but it didn’t. Conditions were so good I got in close for a few photos of this significant headland. The foot bridge is used to access the Mizen head visitor centre http://www.mizenhead.net
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Dursey head – or is it a Jurassic dinosaur having a drink from the Atlantic
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The Cow Rock with its jagged gothic features, more like the volcanic south china seas
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The Bull Rock – I was so tempted to go through the hole in the boat, but as I was single handed, wiser council prevailed. Note the old buildings over the tunnel, and the 1000s of sea birds nesting on it.
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Bull Rock Light House – This light house was built to survive the worst the Atlantic could through at it, but it took a few attempts to get it right (see http://www.commissionersofirishlights.com/cil/aids-to-navigation/lighthouses/bull-rock.aspx ) The rock is no longer manned due to automation. Can you imagine being storm bound on this for a whole winter? The Mizen head and Hook head light house exhibitions sell DVDs covering the history and showing just how precarious it was getting light keepers on and off these rocks during winter with the Atlantic swell.
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As I felt I had time I deviated westwards to visit the world famous Skellig Islands. These islands were settled by monks around 670 AD and they built a stone village and beehive buildings that survive to this day. (see http://www.skelligsrock.com/history.htm ) The Skelligs are not accessible by leisure craft, but can be visited by local trip boats equipped to deal with the tricky landing points exposed to the Atlantic swell.

Little Skellig – the world’s second largest Gannet colony. Hence the colour!
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Skellig Michael or the Great Skillig – World Heritage site and popular amongst adventurous tourists. The stone beehive settlement built by monks over 1400 years ago is incredible. Local trip boats bring ‘fit’ tourists out who are capable of the long winding climbing walkway to the top.
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Dingle Bay – It doesn’t look to far, but those mountains are not small and it will take me a further two hours to cross the bay to the entrance to Dingle Harbour
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Our tender strapped firmly to davits is invaluable as it has allowed us to overnight in sheltered anchorages. It is important is rougher seas that it is secured firmly to the davits with straps to minimise movement. It was such a lovely day with only a 1.5m swell.
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Ryan’s Daughter Country – The Dingle Peninsula where David Lean’s famous movie was filmed.
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At the entrance to Dingle Harbour I was met by two Dolphin watch trip boats that tried to play “chicken” with me as they were astride Dingles most famous resident “Fungi the Dolphin”. I stood on and they reluctantly gave way, but I had no choice as I was at the edge of the narrow dredged channel on a falling tide.
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The small buzzing town of Dingle across the sheltered harbour. This place is full of wonderful restaurants, pubs, cafes, boutiques, craft shops, live music, art, and all manner of way of getting a few bob off you – but it’s worth the fun.
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Dingle marina has to be in one of the most scenic locations on these islands
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LE Ciara, formerly HMS Swallow is a peacock class vessel, ex-RN from Hong Kong. She was in port for her annual inspection. The crew worked hard all afternoon preparing her.
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Top brass from HQ inspect the ships officers!
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Map of my track around the SW coast from Sherkin/Baltimore to Dingle.
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Thrilled to have made it here from Cork and at ease that OF is now within only one day's range of the Shannon.
 
Great post. Interesting to see Le Cara (ex-HMS Swallow), I remember them being built. Mate of mine at the time said he had a contact in the drafting section and could get us a post on one of them. I thought there was no chance and put in to go elsewhere....turns out he was right and he got the post. Trip of a lifetime taking it out to Hong Kong followed by two years out there. Me? I went to a damp corner of the UK, where I met my wife!
Funny how life turns out :-)
 
Beautiful pictures and stunning scenery. It's easy to imagine how different those same places look when an Atlantic storm hits. Boating there is not for the faint-hearted for sure...
 
Great post. Interesting to see Le Cara (ex-HMS Swallow), I remember them being built. Mate of mine at the time said he had a contact in the drafting section and could get us a post on one of them. I thought there was no chance and put in to go elsewhere....turns out he was right and he got the post. Trip of a lifetime taking it out to Hong Kong followed by two years out there. Me? I went to a damp corner of the UK, where I met my wife!
Funny how life turns out :-)

Tell you a story about LE Ciara, some years ago I was doing a long solo passage around the Irish SW coast. It was a balmy hot hazey day, blue sky and sun. I'd been texting lat/long to my solicitor friend in his hot city office every hour or so, for fun he was plotting the fixes on his PC. I'd get the odd phone call "where was I now". He is boating mad and I felt a mild degree of sympathy for him couped up is his hot office during the heat wave, while I enjoyed the Atlantic mil pond on my hols.

About 15 minutes after I passed the Fastnet east bound but two hours since he got my last text report, I got a text from HIM telling me my exact lat/long, speed and heading. How the heck does he know that? :confused: I know everybody knows everything about everybody in Ireland, but this was weird. I hadn't past or seen any other vessels for hours. So I rang him "Stephen, how do you know exactly where I am?". He roared laughing, "you've been tracked and monitored by the navy". I thought he was talking though his human waste disposal facility!

It turns out the Commander of LE Ciara at that time was his God son, and he had mentioned to him that I'd be around that part of the coast. It was the big Cork week regatta and P42 was on patrol at the event, hundreds of yachts, no wind, angry sailors, but one lone "target" 25 miles down range making 18kts, which must have been me - it was. So Commander rang his Uncle/God father from the bridge of his war ship, gave my fix, and asked him to find out if it was me! Hence I got the text followed up by a phone call "Noel, P42 had been using you for target drills for past half hour". Is nowhere sacrosanct? :confused: There I am minding my own business off the rocky mountainous Atlantic coast of Ireland and I'm told about Stephens over heard phone conversation with the bridge "Sir, we have a firing solution, shell will take X seconds to target bearing yyy degrees, range Z meters, at W thousand meters range". It was only a drill but don't like our plastic tub referred to as a target by a ship with guns! :eek:

Four days later I encountered LE Ciara as she weighed anchor off Cork ready for patrol. Cheekily I MARPA'ed her on radar and sent a text to my solicitor friend giving her lat/long, speed and course. He forwarded the text on to his nephew, the commander on the bridge of his naval vessel. Hmmm, I thought, "touchee". BUT I got a message direct from the bridge, "I doesn't matter if you know where this ship is sonny, we can shoot, you can't" :eek: obviously in jest! I roared laughing as did his uncle when I told him about it. :)

Later that winter he arranged a tour of the ship for me and my son when she was moored in Dublin city. We got the full works below, anchor lockers, steering systems, engine room, bridge, mess, the whole works. They quite like the peacock class as they are the fastest ships in the naval service and she has the biggest gun, and can access all the remote bays and harbours on the west coast.
 
The Bull Rock – I was so tempted to go through the hole in the boat, but as I was single handed, wiser council prevailed. <snip>
At the entrance to Dingle Harbour I was met by two Dolphin watch trip boats that tried to play “chicken” with me as they were astride Dingles most famous resident “Fungi the Dolphin”. I stood on and they reluctantly gave way.
Great write up, though I'd be more than tempted to go through, and you leave Fungi alone, I've swum with him from the shore early morning when no boats around
 
Great write up, though I'd be more than tempted to go through, and you leave Fungi alone, I've swum with him from the shore early morning when no boats around

That must have been wonderful. Fungi I suspect now has a few 'twins' as he must be quite old, but the Fungi brand is still huge down there.

See here: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285025

I had company off Clear Island :)
 
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