Fridge using lots of amps in the hot weather

All the logical things have been suggested except 1, and potentially 1 more radical...

So
✅ Extra insulation
✅ Reflection
✅ Ventilation ± fan on the back of fridge
✅ Fill fridge with (preferably already cold) liquid rather than air
✅ Some form of curtain that contains the air
❓ Clean the elements
❓Does the compressor switch off if door open (add a microswitch to a relay?)

And if you are thinking of re-plumbing, you might also think of re-electronics... (Relatively cheap†)

A digital thermostat should let you set specific temp but also a hysteresis (i.e if you want 5⁰C temp you can do 2-8⁰C or 4-6⁰C).

The 2-8⁰C will likely mean the compressor runs for longer but should be off for longer too. There will be a happy compromise to be found.

†off the shelf solutions should be easy to wire in. If you really wanted to go fancy you might want to combine timing... So change hysteresis overnight when outside temp lower and door opening less anyway.
 
❓Does the compressor switch off if door open (add a microswitch to a relay?)

This would serve no purpose and actually be bad for the compressor, trying to start a compressor in a pressurised system is bad. The compressor will often not start, domestic fridges will trigger a thermal cutout to prevent the motor burning out., not sure that boat fridges have the thermal cutout, it might be part of the controller ?
 
That is a hell of a big fridge to have on a boat, or is it a cold store ship?
I think you misunderstand me. If I said "Not to install the fridge in a room of less that 100 cu ft" maybe you would get the picture. (There must be space to allow circulation of air around the fridge.)
 
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Reckless!

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I think you misunderstand me. If I said "Not to install the fridge in a room of less that 100 cu ft" maybe you would get the picture. (There must be space to allow circulation of air around the fridge.)
The fridge on my boat is fitted (by the manufacturer) into a space of approx 9cu ft. I imagine most boat, and caravan, fridges will be the same.
 
There would usually be a 'vent' - so nominally the 9cu.ft is connected to a bigger space. On a caravan - usually the outside world.
 
This would serve no purpose and actually be bad for the compressor, trying to start a compressor in a pressurised system is bad. The compressor will often not start, domestic fridges will trigger a thermal cutout to prevent the motor burning out., not sure that boat fridges have the thermal cutout, it might be part of the controller ?
The purpose depends how long you keep your door open. Putting the milk away - completely agree. Some people seem to spend extraordinary time 're-arranging the fridge'.

However, you've now concerned me that every time I do something that makes the low voltage alarm sound on the VHF if the fridge was running it might explode... ...only happens every time I start the engine...
 
There would usually be a 'vent' - so nominally the 9cu.ft is connected to a bigger space. On a caravan - usually the outside world.
Yep, the back of the compartment drops into the space at the side of the saloon and engine bay along to the cockpit lazarette. Cooler air can be drawn in but really nowhere for the hot air to escape to.
 
Yep, the back of the compartment drops into the space at the side of the saloon and engine bay along to the cockpit lazarette. Cooler air can be drawn in but really nowhere for the hot air to escape to.
Not impossible to sort, and probably make a noticeable difference. I'd want some temperature readings from the warm air at the back...
 
One other thought...

That OP shows a fridge that looks like it has a light.

Older‡ fridge lights are incandescant. So basically a heater in your fridge! Check (1) if it is switching off when door closed (2) if it gets warm. Short term fix; remove bulb. Long term solution fit Led bulb instead.

‡I'd say LED has only been 'normal' in the last <10 years.
 
At the risk of being late to the thread: Have you checked that the lard-arse Bozo is not hiding inside, and all his hot air ramblings may be the cause?
 
I have a Dometic/Waeco CRX 50, up until the weekend I thought it was fairly frugal with amps. But the weekend was hotter than usual, and the fridge compressor seemed to be on most of the time, even when turned down to the minimum setting.

View attachment 96923

Would adding insulation to the sides, back and top help?

Is there anything else, other than insulation, that I should be looking at?

Would a top loader with plenty of insulation perform better?

TIA
possibly / could be the fridge has lost its refrigerant / yes since there is less loss of "cold" when you open it
 
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