freeing a seized outboard

firstascent2002

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Hi guys,

Got a 3.3 outboard for spares to repair my old one. It looks in fine nick but is seized. Having removed the spark plug and poured in a load of oil and left it for a while with no freeing is there any other simple tricks to free it? I only got it for spares but it seems a shame not to free it up if it can be done! I wondered anout heating the cylinder...

Kind regards

Jamie
 
I also tried this technique on a motorbike (2 stroke BSA). I used WD40 and gave the crank a waggle back and forth every day. After about a week, I detected some movement and further waggling increased the movement until eventually it became free enough to dismantle. Polished with fine emery paper, renewed piston rings BYU. Bike stilling running.
 
pour in parrafin and let it soak for a few days and then try heating cylinder barrel with hot air gun (empty parrafin and screw in spark plug before heating ) .It worked for me on old merc ob once .
 
having rebuilt quite a few now, you really need to know if its just been standing or if it was submerged at some point. If the latter then just strip it down and see whats good. if its just been stood around then i suggest what the others have said about soaking, then remove the starter recoil and try turning clockwise with a socket on a long bar.


Steve
 
Freeing seized O/b

It is usually very easy to remove the cylinder head. With the head off you will find that hitting the piston with a suitable sized wooden block and hammer will get it moving. The problem with trying to move the piston via the crankshaft is that the mechanical advantage is poor and you may damage the bearings by using violence. So apply the violence to the culprit ie bash the piston.
If it is a twin cylinder it will be an advantage to disconnect the con rod if you can so you are only working one piston at a time. good luck olewill
 
seized outboard

Pour in very hot (almost boiling) diesel through the plug hole and let sit for a while then try freeing by turning engine BACKWARDS. Turning it in the normal direction will only tighten it up more.
Take care heating the diesel though.....
If you resort to using a wooden block make sure it is almost the size of the bore or you could crack the piston.
 
Olewill has the trick, as usual. There is a refinement, not hot diesel - too dodgy for me. Just a kettle of boiling water before twotting it one will get the alloy piston & cast cyclinder expanding at different rates. Not so successful if both are alloy tho!

Outboards, especially old 2/-s are notoriously capable of running regardless of cyclinder wear/ damage.
 
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