Frame for solar panels

Alskade

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Morning all, from a lovely sunny Cornwall!

I'm after a frame being made for my solar panels (to be purchased). Meself, and the other half, aren't really frame makers and we don't want it to look overly botched :D

Can anyone recommend either someone who can make them or something that we could adapt (we're not bad at adapting).

Thanks all :)
 
I approached a food grade stainless steel company which weld and make stuff for industry. Most major cities have them.. They quite enjoyed the project actually but you'll need be specific with your drawing. Also much food grade stainless is brushed and not polished. You'll want to ask for polished to prevent corrosion.
 
I'd consider having the frame in aluminium to save weight. Ali does not need polishing and is easier to drill to fix to a gantry or part of the boat if you are fixing direct.

You could buy alloy angle and then use a structural (metal) adhesive.

https://youtu.be/5G6Y_SPTfpE

There are adhesive tapes which do the same job.
 
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I'd consider having the frame in aluminium to save weight. Ali does not need polishing and is easier to drill to fix to a gantry or part of the boat if you are fixing direct.

You could buy alloy angle and then use a structural (metal) adhesive.

https://youtu.be/5G6Y_SPTfpE

There are adhesive tapes which do the same job.

I feel a project coming on :D Thank you.
 
I'd consider having the frame in aluminium to save weight. Ali does not need polishing and is easier to drill to fix to a gantry or part of the boat if you are fixing direct.

You could buy alloy angle and then use a structural (metal) adhesive.

https://youtu.be/5G6Y_SPTfpE

There are adhesive tapes which do the same job.

I made my own using aluminium. They have worked well over the last 10 years ( UK and the Med) I used L section angle and just bolted it together. They hinge on the top pulpit rail and so hinge in one direction only using aluminium stays to adjust.
 
I'm unsure of how aluminium fairs long term being vibrated? Stainless tends to flex a little and bend. When is very windy out 360w of panels hanging off the back of our goal posts can vibrate a little. I do wonder if aluminium would fair as well?
 
I'm unsure of how aluminium fairs long term being vibrated? Stainless tends to flex a little and bend. When is very windy out 360w of panels hanging off the back of our goal posts can vibrate a little. I do wonder if aluminium would fair as well?

Mine are ali support 3 x 135 w panels on a gallows, are centrally pivoted to be able to follow the sun and have survived 10 years of Caribbean cruising and that includes some 60 knot squalls.
 
All the solar panels I have had experience of have had frames as part of their construction.

I fabricated simple brackets from S/S strip and used tube clips to fasten to 1 inch S/S tube across existing davits, effectivly making an arch.Tube clips then mated with my home made strip brackets. 6 seasons, no issues. Working well when vessel sold 3 years ago.
 
Not sure if the OP wants a full blown arch/gantry, or something a bit smaller?
Rigid panels already have a frame on them, which is perfectly good if mounting on deck or across the corner of the pushpit rail for example.
Or maybe something slightly more elaborate like a hinged/swinging mounting that allows panels to lie flat against the guardwires?

Unistrut is available in stainless and with all the various fittings and attachments could be an easy DIY option, and not very expensive.
 
Not sure if the OP wants a full blown arch/gantry, or something a bit smaller?
Rigid panels already have a frame on them, which is perfectly good if mounting on deck or across the corner of the pushpit rail for example.
Or maybe something slightly more elaborate like a hinged/swinging mounting that allows panels to lie flat against the guardwires?

Unistrut is available in stainless and with all the various fittings and attachments could be an easy DIY option, and not very expensive.

After doing some reasearch yesterday.....gantry was the word I should have included when discussing the frame. The earlier videos were great in working out what I need to construct.

I'm not sure that my nerves will allow something more elaborate :D
 
...I'm after a frame being made for my solar panels (to be purchased)....
There are about 500 threads on here with solar in the title and I suggest you do some detailed research using the Forum search engine.

Where it says Search YBW Forum either put in SOLAR and then click the magnifying glass - or leave blank and click the magnifying glass to get to 'Advanced' search where you can search for 'Solar' in the Titles or in thebody of the Posts.

Here are my thoughts on what you need to check:

Is a frame the most cost effective solution - can cost £1000 or more!
Maybe cheaper to buy semi-flexible panels and fit to decks or bimini or spray hood.
Semi-flex panels are much more expensive - can be walked on - don't buy cheap Chinese!

Other important electrical considerations:
Check MPPT controllers - but not cheap Chinese.
Understand why on most boats batteries can never be charged by lunchtime as so many people suggest.
- why batteries are not full when any kind of charger drops to float.
- what 100% fully charged really means.
- why this must be achieved at least every two weeks for all types of Lead Acid batteries to avoid sulfation.

Sorry but this is heavy stuff, but will make your batteries last longer and make life afloat at anchor more enjoyable.

Good luck!
 
Is a frame the most cost effective solution - can cost £1000 or more!

Now that I have 'project bank holiday'....maybe not :p

I'm sure there are kazillions of threads available, but I like to chitchat and there may be different suggestions than previously mentioned....new ways to do things, new videos to lose yourself in....so, yes, I use the search function, but isn't it nice just to stop for a coffee and chew the fat over a problem?

Thanks for your suggestions though, as always.
 
You might find it helpful, once you have determined more-or-less what you believe you want, to make a mockup using plumbers' merchant PVC piping of a suitable diameter. T-junctions and elbow bends are push-fit - at least initially - and revisions and 'mishtooks' are far easier and cheaper to remedy. Then you can use your 'mockup' - all glued up - as a template, or to take to a fabricator without the multiple ambiguities of a 'techie drawing'.

;)
 
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