Forestay - what's wrong with this picture?

ganter

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So, I'm in the process of planning new standing rigging and for the first time yesterday I examined the existing stays and shrouds. I haven't really been at this long when I get to the forestay and follow it down to the chainplate stem. But wait....there's something between the turnbuckle and the stem head - what can it be.

B****y Nora...whoever installed the furler has, for some reason extended the forestay by using a small shackle.

Glad I haven't taken it out in anything other than a gentle puff so far or that would have been the mast down.

How people get away with this is beyond me.

Or am I being a drama queen?

[url=http://postimage.org/]
upload[/URL]
 
So, I'm in the process of planning new standing rigging and for the first time yesterday I examined the existing stays and shrouds. I haven't really been at this long when I get to the forestay and follow it down to the chainplate stem. But wait....there's something between the turnbuckle and the stem head - what can it be.

B****y Nora...whoever installed the furler has, for some reason extended the forestay by using a small shackle.

Glad I haven't taken it out in anything other than a gentle puff so far or that would have been the mast down.

How people get away with this is beyond me.

Or am I being a drama queen?

[url=http://postimage.org/]
upload[/URL]

Yeh drama queen, whats a bit of light mast rain in the cockpit?
 
Shouldn't a deck stepped mast should have an inner forestay, or lower shrouds led forwards ? So a day spoiler rather than a ship wreck.
 
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That is not good, can't see why they would add a shackle when plenty of thread on the rigging screw, maybe the pin was to big! Not sure if even attached to the correct hole! If replacing rigging take the rigging screw to the stemhead and use a rigging screw that gives articulation (Toggle).
 
Depends how big the boat is really. However why they've put that shackle in rather then just winding that rigging screw out a bit is the main question!
 
However why they've put that shackle in rather then just winding that rigging screw out a bit is the main question!

Forestays should be toggled in both dimensions, top and bottom.
The shackle has been added to provide this, but probably not at a strength commensurate with the rest of the stay.
Replacing it with a proper toggle will cure it.
 
Last season I had cause to rescue the forestay & roller rigging from a neighbours boat.
His forestay was fitted to a half chain link tha was welded to the head of a bolt through the foredeck.
he also used a shackle, but one with a n allen keyed pin, so it couldn't be moused.
Miraculously I found all the bits on tyhe foredeck, including the failed half chain link!

The flogging forestay had also undone the backstay, which was also unmoused.
 
Depends how big the boat is really. However why they've put that shackle in rather then just winding that rigging screw out a bit is the main question!

Thanks for the replies guys.

The only thing I can think of is that they installed the furler "in situ' and secured the forestay with the shackle as a temporary fixing whilst assembling the furler - I assume at the time they'd rigged the back stay and a halyard or two to keep the mast steady - and then promptly forgot to remove said shackle and reattach forestay correctly at the end of the installation.

Either way - silly gits!

Oh well, standing rigging is next big job and I won't be setting sail til it's done.
 
The only thing I can think of is that they installed the furler "in situ' and secured the forestay with the shackle as a temporary fixing whilst assembling the furler - I assume at the time they'd rigged the back stay and a halyard or two to keep the mast steady - and then promptly forgot to remove said shackle and reattach forestay correctly at the end of the installation.

I doubt it. As I said, shackles are frequently added there to give the 'toggling' required.

The intent is good, but the execution in using a shackle is poor. But to remove it and connect the turnbuckle directly to the stemhead fitting would be to simply remove one problem and create another.
 
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Yes, a toggle will be needed to allow articulation of the joint. One of the most important things in rigging components is that the pins should be a good sliding fit in the holes, so that the load is spread over a good sized contact area. With a shackle like this, depending on which is tougher, either the pin will wear out the hole in the direction of the strain, or the shackle pin will be guillotined by the hole.

Rob.
 
Getting the impression from replies - thanks - that there needs to be movement available all round.

So a toggle on the end of the turnbuckle would fit the bill...like this?


http://[url=http://postimage.org/]
online photo storage[/URL]
 
Shouldn't a deck stepped mast should have an inner forestay, or lower shrouds led forwards ? So a day spoiler rather than a ship wreck.

Not necessarily. Our rig (on a 34 footer) is very minimalist - forestay, two cap shrouds, two lowers leading aft. Plus a lightweight backstay, but this is a tuning control only and not necessary for mast support.

Lowers leading forwards, or a babystay, are to help control the shape of the mast and prevent panting. I wouldn't expect them to hold it up if a forestay or cap shroud went - more likely the mast would snap just above the lowers.

Pete
 
Or am I being a drama queen?

Yes you probably are on what is presumably not the latest in ocean racing machines.

I had a shackle in that location for a good few years . I have now replaced it with a toggle but I am quite sure the shackle would have seen me out and without risking a dismasting. (but it was a heavier shackle and it was not a bow one )

I went round the boat yard once photographing the arrangements people had at the stem head ..... plenty worse than yours!
 
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