Ford xld / endura-d marinising parts wanted - teal 22 / 670

[dew]

Someone donated a ford endura-d engine that has only done roughly the equivalent to 800 hours and was too good to turn down. I managed to source a borg warner 1:1 gearbox, and a marinising kit but the bellhousing, engine mounts and drive plate and even the pump with the kit were for a different type of engine.

Does anyone have any experience of fitting a ford xld engine to a 22ft boat? Teal 22 is the type I'm currently fitting this engine to. Any advice would be very welcome.

Also, I am looking for a bellhousing, borg warner drive plate, front engine mounts and a v pully belt drive for this engine as the raw water pump may fit with a bit of messing around.

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Hi there, I have carried out a marine conversion on an XLD engine (mine was the 1.6D version but same goes for the 1.8D)

Don’t have any bits to spare but the one thing I did not fit originally was a flywheel mass to enable the tick over to be reduced to 650 rather than the standard 850 to 900rpm. This is important when you fit a mechanical gearbox such as a ZF or Hurth as I found that without the flywheel mass, the gearbox crashed when engaging fwd or rev.

May not be a problem with a BW gearbox but the slow tick over is good for drifting onto a mooring or pontoon under power. I think this may be important for you with your 1:1 BW box as you will be spinning the prop at about 900 rpm at tick over and you could be getting 4 knots at tick over.

Are you using the boat in freshwater or the sea, if the later you will need a Bowman type heat exchanger to stop corrosion with saltwater. However, I would qualify that by saying that as the engine is all cast iron you could get away with direct seawater cooled by ditching the existing aluminium circulation pump and use a jabsco to pump seawater through the engine. You would need to ditch the thermostat and control the flow so that you get a running temperature of about 75 (for seawater) The other issue you may /will face if you do not fit a Bowman HE is the Ford exhaust will get very very hot!

Back in 1960 we fitted a BMC Veddette (Morris 1000 engine) which ran for donkeys years which was seawater cooled and no problems but it did have a water cooled exhaust manifold.

Any questions, PM me.

JC

 

[volvopaul]

A bw 1/1 ratio box is no good for such a high revving engine with such a low displacement(cc) you really need a ratio of 2.5/1 or higher otherwise you will need a prop the size off an outboard, most engine that max out around 3600/3900 have a ratio box of around 2.63/1 and above. The engine may even stall when you select gear unless its just got an egg whisk at the other end.

When doing engine swaps calculation is king, not what you an buy from a boat jumble as cheap as possible.

If anyone needs an 800cc 4 cylinder kubota I have one with water cooled manifold system that's suitable for keel cooling or could be adapted with a heat exchanger, a simple light weight engine about 16/18 hp.

 

[dew]

Thanks for the advice.

My thinking on the prop and gearbox - At the minute, the box I have spins the prop at 1500 rpm and from that, I get about 6kts. The prop is something like 12 x 8. No heat or leakage from the gland. Half revs on the new engine would be 2000 rpm - so 10kts might be reasonable to expect somewhere between half and three quarter throttle. I'm also thinking the engine wont be working hard at that but with a fairly heavy box to turn, it shouldn't be running free either. Prop calc programs talk of a smaller prop dia with more pitch for the setup I've chosen.

As you point out, JC, I don't know anything about the fly wheel but the slow speeds, I know someone with a 6 cyl ford engine who had to coast when mooring with small bursts of power now and then to manoeuvre, if required which is what I'm planning on doing.

I have a bowman heat exchanger and oil cooler that will definitely work but I bought a kit with the wrong bell housing is for a perkins or something. I can't find one to identify it properly but It is on ebay - ct marine m32 it is called. I'm guessing the water pump and engine mounts are for the same engine. Bit cheesed off about that actually cus I only have a small fund.

I'll test it all before it goes in of course to make sure the box doesn't crash etc.

 

[Jcorstorphine]

A bw 1/1 ratio box is no good for such a high revving engine with such a low displacement(cc) you really need a ratio of 2.5/1 or higher otherwise you will need a prop the size off an outboard, most engine that max out around 3600/3900 have a ratio box of around 2.63/1 and above. The engine may even stall when you select gear unless its just got an egg whisk at the other end.

When doing engine swaps calculation is king, not what you an buy from a boat jumble as cheap as possible.

If anyone needs an 800cc 4 cylinder kubota I have one with water cooled manifold system that's suitable for keel cooling or could be adapted with a heat exchanger, a simple light weight engine about 16/18 hp.

Not sure I agree 100% with volvopaul as I have a Ford XLD with a 1.5:1 Hurth gearbox which was a deliberate choice on my part as i can only fit a 14" prop. For my engine with a 2:1 box, I would either have had to fit a 17" prop or a smaller over square prop of about 13 x 17 (ish)

My 21 foot boat cruises at 6.5 knots with the engine at 1500 rpm on a 13 x 14 prop I think the mass weight is essential for this engine as it allows it to run very quietly and with low vibration of 650 rpm. I can actually get mine down to just over 500 when warm but is not happy when cold. FYI the flywheel mass is approx 20 mm thickness and is the same diameter as the R&D drive plate.

 

[dew]

Yeah to the first point. That is what I thought and I'm really pleased you answered with your setup. The only real thing I have worried about is whether the stern gland can take it but as its running cold now and I don't plan on thrashing it around, anyway and I have a 25mm shaft which should be ok from what I've found. I have two flywheels. I wonder if I can double them up.

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Yeah to the first point. That is what I thought and I'm really pleased you answered with your setup. The only real thing I have worried about is whether the stern gland can take it but as its running cold now and I don't plan on thrashing it around, anyway and I have a 25mm shaft which should be ok from what I've found. I have two flywheels. I wonder if I can double them up.

Not sure about that, i think the weight will be too high and remember that flywheels are balanced to the crankshaft when an engine is built. When I built my engine from a complete stripdown, I took the crankshaft, flywheel, flywheel mass and the crankshaft pully all assembled into the machine shop to have the entire assembly balanced.

 

[dew]

So I couldn't just bolt on the mass ring? I have found one but not sure now if i can just put it on.

 

[Jcorstorphine]

Should just bolt on

So I couldn't just bolt on the mass ring? I have found one but not sure now if i can just put it on.

The flywheel mass ring is bolted using the same bolt holse used to locate and fix the drive plate. The drive plate goes direct onto the flywheel using the the dowel pins to locate it and the mass ring is then bolted on.

John

 

[dew]

And no balancing or messing around with the cam shaft?

 

[Jcorstorphine]

And no balancing or messing around with the cam shaft?

Hi, I presume you mean the crankshaft. No you dont need to do anything, I was just taking the oppertnity when I had the engine in bits to check the balance and there was no problems.

So all you do is get the right length of bolts such that you can hold the flyweel mass and the drive plate with enough thread to make sure you do not bottom on the holes

JC