force 10 paraffin stove problems.....(continued)

[yourmomm]

at the risk of sparking yet more gas vs. paraffin debates, i am slowly coming around to the charms of this monstrous thing: i can succeed in lighting it after absolutely filling my (wooden) boat with black smoke, using a blowtorch for aaaages, allowing all the liquid which initially floods the burners to burn off in big yellow scary flames and trying about 40 times.....but, after all that effort i lose my appetite....

i have replaced the tank pressure valve but still seem to be losing pressure through the split pin on the burners themselves-even after i have (eventually)successfully lit the burners, there is still a small yellow flame protruding from these. is this normal?

has anyone got any other ideas apart from the "not enough preheating" (definitely NOT true!) or "not enough pressure" (also definitely NOT true!) variety....?

many thanks, helpful forumites....

 

[tritonofnor]

Sounds to me like the main jet, at the base of the burner on the u tube, is enlarged somewhat allowing an excess of fuel through.. Not sure about the Force 10, but if the burner is the same as on Optimus/Taylor stoves, then the burner unit, jets etc are fairly readily available from Base Camp. As to the flame where the split pin holds the spindle in, when the burner has been running for a while this usually stops, but if it doesn't then give the gland nut just enough of a tweak to stop it.

 

[beneteau_305_553]

If you use a blow torch for pre heating you must preheat the bottom part of the body of the burner and not the cap on top.
At the bottom of the burner is a cup that is designed to take meths. (or denatured alcohol. )
To light properly, completely fill this cup with meths. Light the meths. Wait till it burns out, ( This will take 2 to 3 minutes) then immediatly open the burner control valve half way open and light the burner.
Do not try to light the burner while the meths is still burning as the flame prevents the air from entering the burner and you get the parrafin running down into the burner cup and will produce black smoke.
Once you have proven this method and checked the stove works well then you can try using a blow torch.
The burner control valve also has a pricker device that when the valve is turned full in the open direction a pricker wire comes up into the fuel jet to clear any deposit. If the pricker wire is right up it almost blocks the jet and stops it being lit.
Hope this helps.

 

[smeaks]

I agree with hunter... but I am very impatient and ten to try and ignite the burner just as the meths is about to boil/burn away to save having to scramble about with another match. This works most of the time but when it does not the problem is always a residual yellow flame at the valave orifice.... this is present sometimes when the burner is working but does impair the performance. at these times it always better to shut off the fuel, blow out the flame and quickly relight with the match... then no problems.... should have done it in the first place.

Still I prefer this to gas purley for the physics of the thing!

 

[beneteau_305_553]

You may have a small leak around the threads of the jet.

One jet on my stove was loose and I made a tool using a small socket on a screwdriver handle. I used a dremel to cut the slot in the socket to fit the flats across the jet and just tightened the jet slightly and now do not get any small yellow flame .

I use a blowtorch mostly . Once you get to know how much and where to use it it works very well. Its quicker and you can light the burner with the torch.

 

[Malish]

Leak around the split pin & small yellow flame - the burner on/off rod, attached via the split pin has a graphite packing seal hidden behind a threaded packing nut (you should see the flats of the nut on the burner side of the split pin). The small yellow flame is due to the packing being slightly loose and the cure is to tighten the nut up until the flame is extinguished. Do not over-tighten or the packing will distort.

If you send me a pm with your address I'll send you a photocopy of the Taylors manual which has an operation and trouble shooting section which I think you will find illuminating