Foam head-lining materials

AOWYN

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28 Dec 2002
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I'm planning to re-do the foam-backed vynil headlining on the boat.

Is 4mm ply the best/only material for making the removeable panels?

The old panels off my boat are going to be such a job to clean because of the residue of adhesive and the remains of the old foam that I feel it might be easier/quicker to replace them. But the thought crossed my mind that there might be something better to use than plywood given the developments in the use of plastic sheeting in other industries.

Ideas wanted.

B

PS Thoughts on best source of lining material would also be appreciated.
 

Talbot

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I though long and hard about replacing headlining on my boat. I dont have enough head room in the saloon to allow an extra depth caused by plywood panels. The new vinyl/foam has the new anti-fire treatment, so the market are not expecting anymore than 50% of the life of the old vinyl/foam stuff.

I cleaned all the old adhesive off witha brass wire cup brush mounted in a grinder, and then had a felt backed carpet installed by a carpet fitter. saved a lot of money compared to the vynyl/foam stuff, and should last for a very long time

I reckon it looks better -
yourh1.jpg
 

jerryat

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Hi Aowyn,

4mm ply will be fine. Mine's the same thickness and has been up for 21 years now (re-covered with foam-backed vinyl recently) and look great. You are probably aware that you can get the FB vinyl from suppliers like Hawke House Marine, who can also supply the special glues required and heaps of very good advice. Not cheap (what is these days!) but very good.

Talbot is incorrect re the the shortened (50%) life expectations of the latest vinyl, at least so far as the Hawke House stuff is concerned. They confirmed to me (in writing) that it will last 15-20 years, which is about the same as the 'old' stuff did. I'm afraid there does seem to be a lot of ill-informed talk about FB vinyl, but it IS essential that you use the correct adhesives - usually spray for the foam vinyl and HH Contact (High Heat) for the GRP/ply panels, and let BOTH dry before bringing together. This substantially reduces the risk of solvent entrapment - apparently often the source of earlier than expected failure.

When you think that the original, compartively inferior stuff, used on the Westerlys and many other makes lasted as long as it did, you shouldn't have any worries!!

In my case, I shall almost certainly have 'swallowed the anchor' before any signs of problems occur on my boat!

Hope this helps,

Cheers Jerry
 

salamicollie

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If the boards OK (not rotted) you can get rid of the foam rsidue using a face off disc on an angle grinder - it looks like a disc of plastic wire wool. It will remove foam and most of the old adhesive with out much effort and leaves the plywood unfharmed. You must wear a decent face mask and googles when doing this or removing foam backed sidelinings on the boat as the old foam is reputedly highly carcinogenic.

One other tip - when relining the boards, use foamed healining or self adhesive carpet, unlined shows any imperfections in your board prep!
 

VicS

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I think would agree about the difficulty of removing old adhesive.

If you decide to stay with ply wood panels then you can use a water proof PVA adhesive rather than solvent based impact adhesives. It is sometimes said that the solvent in the latter is partly responsible for the breakdown of the foam. The PVA, being water based,avoids that possibility it is also much kinder to ones health.

Hawke House supplied the PVA ahesive together with the vinyl. It was cheaper to by a single 5 litre can than several 1 litre bottles so will never have to buy any wood glue ever again!
 
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