Flushing outboard to remove salt- with what??

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sparkie

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Hi all, it's that time of year again...... Last winter I cleaned up all the waterways in my Yamaha o/b, found a lot of salt crystals. Don't want to strip it all down again this year, but seem to remember a post or two some time ago referring to flushing with a "solution" that would dissolve the salt. Was it washing soda? And if so what sort of proportions do I need to make it up?? Any advice gratefully received.

Cheers

Sparkie
 
Bound to be people more expert than me, but my understanding was that you flushed it in fresh water first, then continued to run to engine in a solution of antifreeze and water.

I rig up a Heath Robinson device consisting of a couple of workmates and a plastic dustbin filled with fresh water. Suspend outboard over dustbin and start engine. Watch out for tsunami. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Run engine till you get bored then repeat the process with antifreeze in fresh water.

You can get things called flush muffs which allow you to connect to a hose and cut out the dustbin, but these don't fit small outboards.
 
I was wondering about something similar. Would it be possible or sensible to remove the prop before running in a dustbin to prevent the tsunami effect. I discovered earlier this year that even my Seagull 40 featherweight will empty a bucket all over the garage floor in about .000001 of a second.
 
Yes unless you have a neutral gear position (which Seagulls don't usually) you will need to remove the prop. Not a major problem with these models if I remember rightly, that spring arrangement was IMOH one of the best shock absorbers made.

Re Bernie- the antifreeze would be a good idea on the East coast but never had a prob. in warm west Wales, won't do much to remove the crud though I fear??
 
Advised to remove prop before starting in bucket !

It is only very old engines that used water driven back by propellor up tubes to cool by ...

Solutions of water / Furnox (Central Heating cleaner) etc. are used by some .. with good flush out in fresh-water after.
 
Dunno about removing prop. I am careful to fill the dustbin enough so as the water intake is covered, no more. Whole operation is conducted in the garden. I make sure I am wearing full oilies and wellies. It's only once a year after all.

Always a problem knowing what to do with outboard after that. I am advised it is best not to leave it in garage or shed where it might get cold and freeze. So mine spends winter propped up in the cloakroom. Gives visitors something to think about when they pop in for a pee. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
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Dunno about removing prop. I am careful to fill the dustbin enough so as the water intake is covered, no more. Whole operation is conducted in the garden. I make sure I am wearing full oilies and wellies. It's only once a year after all.

Always a problem knowing what to do with outboard after that. I am advised it is best not to leave it in garage or shed where it might get cold and freeze. So mine spends winter propped up in the cloakroom. Gives visitors something to think about when they pop in for a pee. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Ya got a cloak room??????

Eeeeeee-Ek lass, tha must be right posh! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Not many posh birds on 'ere /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Must look a bit bizarre, in the garden, full oilies Bernie!!! not easier to take the prop off?
Agree the anti freeze is a good idea though, even just to lube the impellor. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Run it in a tub of fresh with a squirt of washing up liquid for 30 mins. Then tip a good dose of lube oil into the almost empty fuel tank and get it to "strangle" itself on oil. Once it has stopped, it's ready for the storage shed. OMC Dealers' school used to call this "stopping it on oil" and it ensures that all the internals are coated in corrossion preventative.

Stand it on it's fin in a plastic flowerpot saucer and spray the outside with misting oil Go do some house jobs or re-varnish your tiller. Next season, take the spark plug out, pull it over a few times to eject any excess oil and re-fill the tank with fresh fuel mix. Then fit your new plug and commence to re-start. After a few abhortive pulls it will fire and eventually, after the cloud of smoke has blown away, it will run sweet as a nut. Do this in a tub, of course. I use a flexible bucket with the O/B on it's taffrail mount.

Steve cronin
 
Tried every thing, not much luck then I stumbled upon this stuff, RYDLYME MARINE at 7.50/ltr. To do the head, stand outboard so head is down and level inject (For 2-stroke only) about 80ml into tell tale pipe and leave for about two hours, then remove prop and stand in usual running tank with just enough water to circulate add the correct solution mix and run engine, secret is not to let water get hot so only run for short bursts,took me about one Saturday morning,at the end water cirulation had improved 100%. Have no connection except a happy customer
 
Re: Steve- washing up liquid- does this get rid of the salt? I thought one of the main ingredients of washing up liquid was common salt- hence why we're not supposed to use it on our cars??

Cheers

Sparkie
 
I bought mine locally, had the last can but not stocking it now . customers did not believe it could do what it said. I think Darglow Engineering are the agents but I did a GOOGLE for it and takes you straight to the sight. Safe to skin in fact a test of when its spent is to place some in the palm and drop a bit of sea shell in if it fisses its ok. Now the purists will now say how dangerouse but will offer all comments about the suject. Bet none have tried it, as I say it does whats on the bottle and more,shoved some down the shower head at home (Water supply off) mixer valve open left overnight. flushed out and hey-presto no more tight spots in mixer.
 
Nostalgia

Perhaps only in my imagination. In real life I'm sure they've gone the same route as clippies, rag-and-bone and toffee-apple men. More's the pity.
 
Just found a address.

Rico Ltd 4 Henry Edwards Ind. Est. Boraston Lane, Tenbury Wells, Worcestershire WR15 8LE trust that this may be of use to you folks.
 
Rydlyme

It is excellent stuff! I was getting gradual overheat problems with my inboard diesel and suspected the header tank heat exchanger stack was getting "furred" up and was recommended to use this stuff by a machanic who saw it at SBS a year or two back.

Put it into the system, left it for a good few hours and then collected it at the exhaust elbow just to see if anything else came out. A whole load of extra crap was the result.

End result an engine that ran approx 4-6 degrees cooler and a very happy customer. Highly recommended.


Rydlyme
 
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