Flushing Method/Vibration ( Videos attached)

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Karnic

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Hi Guys

Appreciate your kind help and views :

2nd Video: Is the flushing method im using correct? Flushing OB in tank for 10 minutes ( Idling ). Preferred tank then muffs. Your Views?

1st video: From second 14 onwards Ob seems to shake ( Vibrate) a bit as you can see. Is it with the norm? I think its normal but just to confirm with your expertise.

As i am relatively new to outboards my questions may seem odd to you but i really appreciate your kind help, views and info and i am willing to learn. Thanks all and as i said before i appreciate your help.
 
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It doesn't look that bad to me. My 2 stroke outboard shakes like that occasionally on the muffs. I guess you just don't notice it underway.
 
Most if not all 2T outboards wiil shake to some degree at idle, some can be quite lumpy at tickover and shake themselves on the rubber mounts, underway forward momentum and thrust produced negates any shaking whatsover...
hence don't worry its very normal and the flushing method is fine.
 
maverickofpoole said:
The Suzuki site recommend using flushing muffs http://www.suzukimarine.com/FAQ/Maintenance/How%20do%20I%20use%20and%20care%20for%20my%20outboard%20engine%20in%20saltwater.aspx but doing it the way you are will achieve the same result
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TheOrs said:
It doesn't look that bad to me. My 2 stroke outboard shakes like that occasionally on the muffs. I guess you just don't notice it underway.
Click to expand...

RobWales said:
Most if not all 2T outboards wiil shake to some degree at idle, some can be quite lumpy at tickover and shake themselves on the rubber mounts, underway forward momentum and thrust produced negates any shaking whatsover...
hence don't worry its very normal and the flushing method is fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply. Sorry to ask but what does 2T means? My ob is 4 stroke.
 
Looks fine to me. however I cannot see why you think a small tank is better than muffs. In my book it isn't. apart from being a load more hassle, the salt water sitting in the engine is dumped into the tank, so you are flushing with impure water that contains a small amount of salt = electrolyte. No big deal because the concentration is vvv low, and nothing to worry about, but surely muffs are simply better on this and all other fronts (especially convenience!)
 
jfm said:
I cannot see why you think a small tank is better than muffs. In my book it isn't.
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J, I once heard an official Merc Racing engineer (referring to an outdrive rather than an outboard, but I don't think that's relevant) arguing that it's better to use a tank in order to run the engine with the same exhaust backpressure as if the boat were in the water - on top of the other obvious warning of granting enough flow if using muffs.
But I'm only reporting it as I heard it - fwiw, I use muffs for my tender o/b.

@Karnic:
1) I'd rather run the engine for much less than 10 mins, but at somewhat higher than idle rpm.
2) I wouldn't bother about the vibration, unless it's noticeable also while underway.
 
jfm said:
Looks fine to me. however I cannot see why you think a small tank is better than muffs. In my book it isn't. apart from being a load more hassle, the salt water sitting in the engine is dumped into the tank, so you are flushing with impure water that contains a small amount of salt = electrolyte. No big deal because the concentration is vvv low, and nothing to worry about, but surely muffs are simply better on this and all other fronts (especially convenience!)
Click to expand...

Took your point. Appreciate. The only thing i opted for the tank rather than muffs is because of the water pressure. I think by using the tank the Outboard will have more water flow but im not sure whats best thats why i opted to ask here. And in my case tank is quite large for the reason. Thanks for your feedback and i value lots your opinion in which you have a good point. Honestly taught would find some more help from other forum readers regarding their views about this thing and also about the amount of vibration if its normal or not. as you are aware im new to ob and value opinions of others. Cheers Mate.
 
MapisM said:
J, I once heard an official Merc Racing engineer (referring to an outdrive rather than an outboard, but I don't think that's relevant) arguing that it's better to use a tank in order to run the engine with the same exhaust backpressure as if the boat were in the water - on top of the other obvious warning of granting enough flow if using muffs.
But I'm only reporting it as I heard it - fwiw, I use muffs for my tender o/b.

@Karnic:
1) I'd rather run the engine for much less than 10 mins, but at somewhat higher than idle rpm.
2) I wouldn't bother about the vibration, unless it's noticeable also while underway.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mapis. Infact someone locally told me to run the engine less than 10 mins. Would do as told in the next flush. Regarding the amount of vibration as far as im concerned while underway outboard doesnt shake so i think its not an issue but not sure about it cos always owned inboards and this is my 1st ob so would appreciate what others say.
 
Several manufacturers warn about rpm over 1500 when on muffs, allegedly due to so called run-away on 2-strokes (getting out of control).
Also a difference between tank and muffs is the exhaust silencing by the water in a tank.

On modern 4-strokes like the OP's these arguments however seem of little relevance.

Used to have a Suzuki 140. It had a garden hose connector for flushing without engine running. Any such device on yours?
100_5069_zps58a4f83d.jpg


Note: This way water gets in above the impeller, so starting is not recommended as the impeller will run dry and selfdestruct.
 
Spi D said:
Several manufacturers warn about rpm over 1500 when on muffs, allegedly due to so called run-away on 2-strokes (getting out of control).
Also a difference between tank and muffs is the exhaust silencing by the water in a tank.

On modern 4-strokes like the OP's these arguments however seem of little relevance.

Used to have a Suzuki 140. It had a garden hose connector for flushing without engine running. Any such device on yours?
100_5069_zps58a4f83d.jpg


Note: This way water gets in above the impeller, so starting is not recommended as the impeller will run dry and selfdestruct.
Click to expand...

Hi Spi. Yes have that attachment to use while engine is not running but i think the washout wont be as good as flushing with muffs or tank. What you think.
Also what about that little shaking when idle. Is it normal or?
 
To my experience they run smooth and do not vibrate.

Try a Youtube search and see others at idle.


If not serviced recently I'd change oil & filter + plugs. Plugs alone can do a lot.
 

Been serviced lately yes and the plugs are from the factory. Only 30 hours of work yet. Have you seen my video re vibration? Not sure about it. Hope some one intervene and elaborate a bit re this matter cos im not sure about it.. Vibration is very minimal as you can see from my video but im worried because i dont know if its normal or not .
 
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Karnic, all ok. Just on the vibration, that looks perfectly ok to me on the video. Absolutely nothing to worry about imho

MM, Karnic, yes the back pressure/water pressure will be different in the water and with muffs. But if you are merely flushing, as opposed to doing Merc-engineer fine tuning/race tuning, I can't see that it matters. Obviously you need a good hosepipe that delivers enough water. I like to see a little bit of water leaking out of the muffs so indicating too much flow from the hosepipe

I still prefer muffs. In fact for must flushing I just use the hosepipe connection as pictured above and do not start the engine.(mine is Yamaha, but is similar to Suzuki, though slightly easier to use because you use ordinary Gardena/Hozelock type hosepipe connectors, or even just hold the hose pipe onto the fitting and don't need any special fittings
 
jfm said:
Karnic, all ok. Just on the vibration, that looks perfectly ok to me on the video. Absolutely nothing to worry about imho

MM, Karnic, yes the back pressure/water pressure will be different in the water and with muffs. But if you are merely flushing, as opposed to doing Merc-engineer fine tuning/race tuning, I can't see that it matters. Obviously you need a good hosepipe that delivers enough water. I like to see a little bit of water leaking out of the muffs so indicating too much flow from the hosepipe

I still prefer muffs. In fact for must flushing I just use the hosepipe connection as pictured above and do not start the engine.(mine is Yamaha, but is similar to Suzuki, though slightly easier to use because you use ordinary Gardena/Hozelock type hosepipe connectors, or even just hold the hose pipe onto the fitting and don't need any special fittings
Click to expand...

Thanks JFM.:encouragement:
 
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