Floaty Problems

[jcwads]

Hello all

I am in the process of trying to work out when my bilge float switches should be live and working.

An example is the shower sump box. The float is definitely not faulty, but it doesn't automatically engage when the box fills with water. This is when the boat is at the marina and the engine is off.

When should a float switch be live and ready to work? I would have thought it would be at all times?

Any insight would be appreciated..


Jonathan

 

[longjohnsilver]

Not necessarily, I have a separate switch for my shower sump pumps, and all my bilge pumps are on a 3 way swItches, off, manual and auto.

However what I have probably doesn't help with what you have on your boat.

 

[QBhoy]

If your shower pump switch is on, it should work off the float switch ? Did on my old boat anyway.
And engine space bilge pump should be live all the time.

 

[rubberduck]

My pumps all have breakers you can flip to off, 1st thing we check when she is in the water.Only reason I can think of is its to make sure they don't run dry when out, as she is presently.

 

[girlofwight]

All boats are different. We have 4 x bilge pumps on permanent live, and shower sump on a separate breaker switched from the domestic battery master.

I would have a marginal preference for having the shower on permanent live, as means it could support a dehumidifier over winter without leaving master switch on, but really that's a first world problem.

 

[kashurst]

as other have said it depends on the boat, but float switches are very unreliable and can work intermittently. I have lost count how many I have replaced over the years. If you are not electrically minded and familiar with a multimeter get it checked. If it has failed or gone iffy it makes a right mess in the bilges if you don't notice quickly - hint can you smell toothpaste/shampoo perfume.
Also they should work as long as the batteries / switches/ breakers etc are turned on. They have nothing to do with the engines at all.

 

[superheat6k]

Bilge float switches are awful devices, not only prone to not working properly, as by the sound if it the OP's isn't, but can cause other problems as well.

My Turbo 36 was eating anodes and this was due to a low level 12vdc + leakage into the bilge water then via nearby fittings into the bonding circuit making the anodes slightly more positive than they are naturally.

I replaced the offending switch with a solid state one made by Whale, which resolved the situation.

A worthwhile annual check for low level DC current drain is, with all switchable services turned off (this should mean on most boats only the bilge pump circuits are left on), disconnect the + VE terminal from your battery bank (both if more than one bank), then measure what voltage is present between the loose terminal and the +VE battery post to which it is normally attached. Anything more than zero volts is bad news and bilge pump float switches are the most likely culprit.

 

[PilotWolf]

....
And engine space bilge pump should be live all the time.

Provided your bilge isn't oily and likely to pollute wherever you are.

W.