Flat Light Switch

demonboy

demonboy

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Why don't they exist? I'm looking to mount a small light switch on my ceiling and the space behind the board and the deck is very shallow. Since a switch simply makes a connection I am forever puzzled as to why 12v light switches are so deep. Why is this and do flat light switches exist?

Alternatively, does anyone know where I can source a small, mounted switch (a bit like this one: http://www4.gira.com/en/schalterprogramme/aufputz.html), which I think is called a 'surface mounted' type in the trade. And if I can't find 12v-specific switches, can I get away with using normal household 240v switches?
 
demonboy said:
In appearance, perhaps, but these are inline switches like the kind you get on a lamp. I'd like to be able to mount the switch so it needs its own housing.
Click to expand...


For a light resistive load you'd get away with a 240 V AC switch but try to find one with a nice snappy action

An architrave switch might be attractively compact

eg http://www.wickes.co.uk/mk-architra...match||plid|&gclid=CJzA49rNlbkCFbQetAod1loAZA


MK-Architrave-Switch-Single-2W-K484RPWHI_medium.jpg


Have not looked but you may be able to get a shallow plasterboard box for it if needed

.
 
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demonboy said:
In appearance, perhaps, but these are inline switches like the kind you get on a lamp. I'd like to be able to mount the switch so it needs its own housing.
Click to expand...

Just what I need, so come on someone!!

I have changed my strip light for 3 LED clusters. The original 'stiff' wires come out of the double skinned roof and cant be accessed I need a switch which will cover up these wires and allow me to link to the units. That 'inline' switch is just the size but I ( also ) need to screw it to the roof.
 
For low amperage circuits like lights, a household 240v switch is fine. On Vivere we have rotary ceiling lights (with LED bulbs) with built in switches that have worn out, so I have wired them as permanently on and then used a domestic 3-in-1 switch from B&Q to be able to switch different lights on in the saloon - far more convenient.

Neil
 
nigelmercier said:
What depth do you have behind the panel? What is panel thickness? What type of switch do you want?

http://cpc.farnell.com/switches-accessories
Click to expand...

Depth: 5mm
Panel thickness: 5mm
Type: as I said, surface mounted.

Useful link, btw, though a cursory glance suggests all their switches are panel-mounted. I will continue to look through their selection though, thank you.
 
I have some really flat switches in my bathroom at home. The salient part is literally the size of a postage stamp, and about three or four millimetres thick. It's embedded in the tile cement behind a wall tile, and a pair of thin 5v wires run off to a control box in the ceiling void. When you touch the tile (which is in the conventional location for a light switch, and a contrasting colour to the rest) a relay in the control box operates and switches the lights.

As well as looking rather swish, it's also about the only way of legally having the light switch inside the room without either a big ugly "industrial" IP-rated switch or a manky old 1970s-style pull-cord.

Sadly not a lot of use on a boat, as I'm pretty sure the control circuitry requires 240v.

Pete
 
Thanks for the replies.

Vic's architrave switch is probably the closest in appearance to what I'm after but it's still quite deep. It would need a box like this...

ae235.jpg

...which is not very pretty. A slimmer version of this would be ideal.

I do like the membrane touch control panel, though it's probably over-kill for my requirements. The Zencelo switch looks like the ticket but the flat bit is just the button. I think there is another part to the switch behind the panel that makes it quite deep (31mm according to one website).

FTR, I did once purchase a remote control dimmer switch for my LED strip lights. It was quite cheap at £9 but it wasn't very well made and I trashed it quite quickly. Also, on a boat it's actually more convenient to have a switch by the light than it is a remote control on a keyring.
 
demonboy said:
Depth: 5mm
Panel thickness: 5mm
Type: as I said, surface mounted.

Useful link, btw, though a cursory glance suggests all their switches are panel-mounted. I will continue to look through their selection though, thank you.
Click to expand...

Look at the Berker range. http://www.abcomponents.co.uk/09-3651-25-XX Rocker switch has 10mm back recess. As fitted to HR and others.
 
neil1967 said:
For low amperage circuits like lights, a household 240v switch is fine. On Vivere we have rotary ceiling lights (with LED bulbs) with built in switches that have worn out, so I have wired them as permanently on and then used a domestic 3-in-1 switch from B&Q to be able to switch different lights on in the saloon - far more convenient.

Neil
Click to expand...

Does that mean I have been stupid using a 230v domestic light switch to turn off the 12v. frig. in the boat?
 
Quandary said:
Does that mean I have been stupid using a 230v domestic light switch to turn off the 12v. frig. in the boat?
Click to expand...
Maybe maybe not.
A switch contact needs to be rated for the current so if the contacts are too tiny they drop voltage and get hot so melting. The current rating should be much the same for DC and AC. (sometimes higher for AC).
The next problem is that when the switch is turned off there can be a high voltage appearing across the contacts causing an arc. With 240v circuits this arc tends to be extinguished with each cycle while with DC the arc can be sustained. The arc can be very destructive. ( don't ask how an AC arc welder maintains arc)
The voltage can be quite high with DC when a high current inductive circuit is opened. ie a relay coil or a motor coil. Called "Back EMF) Probably not a problem with your fridge. If the switch dies you will know I was wrong. good luck olewill
 
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