Flat chisel for lifting a section of teak deck

dje67

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I need to lift a 1 foot square section of teak deck without damaging the individual planks. The deck is fixed using adhesive (not screwed) so I need a long very flat chisel with a very sharp end to slide under the teak without bending it too much whilst cutting through the remaining adhesive. Hopefully, if undamaged, I can then just re-lay the original teak.

Any recommendations?
 
Since chisels need to be rigid, thin ones would be useless. I think you would do better with a sharpened scraper:

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p1...MI7caokL_B2wIVEEPTCh3ojg_8EAQYBSABEgJeh_D_BwE

or, the burger flipper's friend:

https://www.ajstuarts.com/shop/view/12052/turner-wooden-h-37-cm-solid-blade

Presumably you 1-foot square consists of several individual strips of teak. In which case it would be best to rake out the adhesive between each section and remove them one at a time.

If things go wrong, Robbins Timber Ltd, Bristol, can supply teak decking.
 
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An oscillating tool with the chisel/scraper blade? Thin blade, powered action but very controllable

+1 These are excellent at cutting old adhesive sealant. Still unlikely you'll get the planks off entirely unharmed though. Not difficult to match though - in the end all untreated teak goes grey :)
 
After lifting a lot of teak while relaying my deck I would suggest you should bite the bullet, order more teak and simple get it off by any means necessary. We tried being gentle and even then you will break bits so you will need some replacement strips and then you might as well do the lot and save time. I am sure it is possible if you are hyper careful and find a thin, stong felixible, but not too flexible, tool but I don't think it will be worth the effort.
 
Unless you are starting from an edge you will find it very difficult to lift a section because of the difficulty of getting your blade flat and horizontal to cut the adhesive cleanly without damaging the teak.
 
I need to lift a 1 foot square section of teak deck without damaging the individual planks. The deck is fixed using adhesive (not screwed) so I need a long very flat chisel with a very sharp end to slide under the teak without bending it too much whilst cutting through the remaining adhesive. Hopefully, if undamaged, I can then just re-lay the original teak.

Any recommendations?

A bolster?
 
Unless you are starting from an edge you will find it very difficult to lift a section because of the difficulty of getting your blade flat and horizontal to cut the adhesive cleanly without damaging the teak.

Fortunately, the panel has an accessible edge that I can get access. Just need a tool to get in under the strips which are about 12 inches long. A couple are loose already, hence the need for the job.
 
If you have an accessible edge and are not having to pry them up (i.e. access to the side of the planks) then a multimaster type tool will work. You ger a flat attachment with a serrated tip and it will cut through the sikaflex (or similar) with ease. Make sure a nd vut down the caulking line with a stanley knife.
 
Fortunately, the panel has an accessible edge that I can get access. Just need a tool to get in under the strips which are about 12 inches long. A couple are loose already, hence the need for the job.

You stand a chance then with a sharp paint scraper type blade as suggested earlier. Agree with the suggestion to remove the caulking, not just cut the edge against the strips. How thick are they, as thin 6mm will be prone to cracking and splitting.
 
You stand a chance then with a sharp paint scraper type blade as suggested earlier. Agree with the suggestion to remove the caulking, not just cut the edge against the strips. How thick are they, as thin 6mm will be prone to cracking and splitting.

Looks like it is 6mm thick teak. Caulking is just the standard rubberised stuff that is used on glued-down decks and can be removed easily-enough. Just need to find a blade long enough.
 
I remember seeing a video on you tube using an oscillating saw with the teeth ground down on the blade edge and the tip squared off and sharpened. Seemed to give a fairly long reach beneath the teak while still keeping fairly flat. Sorry I couldn’t find a link.
 
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