Fixing non permanent polycarbonate storm windows?

Tim Good

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I have post previously on this topic and since had my storm boards made and delivered. They are 8mm polycarbonate.

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Here is thing and some facts:

1. I don't want them permanently on as they look naff. Just for big passages or if we get caught out and see a huge weather system coming that we can't dodge.

2. As previously advised I'll put a layer of 1.5mm neoprene around the edges to make a reasonable seal and they may double up as double glazing to prevent condensation since we like to sail in high latitudes.

3. The existing aluminium frames have screws all the way around so I removed one and drill it through to see if I could use maybe 4 of these to fix the window by putting a bolt though it. See pictures.

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So what do you think? My problem is that if I drill these out then when the boards are off I'll be left with holes to fill / cover somehow. Also attaching the boards with 4 bolts per board could be a lengthy job.

Has anyone got suggestions for a smart way to fix them which will be fast, effective and no look hidious from the outside when the boards are removed?
 
So since posting above I found a thing called a nutsert which you rivet in... has anyone use one as these seem like a possible solution to avoid a bolt going all the way through? Like this?

 
We use these as crush nuts to put a thread in a thin sheet of steel. I believe they would split your perspex, or fibreglass as they were tightened.

Mike
 
We use these as crush nuts to put a thread in a thin sheet of steel. I believe they would split your perspex, or fibreglass as they were tightened.

Mike

Mike, they wouldn't be put on the Perspex or fibreglass. They're go onto thebaluminijm window frame and then the polycarbonate windows would just have a hole and bolted on, into the threaded insert.

Thoughts?
 
Assuming I have understood you problem correctly.......

why not leave a bolt at each corner permanently sticking out 30mm or so like your photo. Drill corresponding holes in the storm window and when necessary, fix with wing- nuts. When the windows are not wanted, I am sure you could find some plastic gismo to go over the bolt ends to avoid hurting yourself on them,
 
I'd be worried they would split the frame, but it depends how much thickness of material you have once you have drilled a big enough hole for the nut. You would have to tighten them in place first too. There are rubber versions that might be more suitable.
For storm boards I would rather they weren't relying on the window at all for support, and some larger bolts bonded into the area around the window. Then some tidy knurled nuts, or wing nuts to hold the windows on.
Maybe slot the bottom 2 holes in the window for drainage, and to make easy fitment. ie slide the windows down onto the bottom bolts. then remove the nuts completely on the top ones.
 
Ic you bolt through from the inside then a Dome nut would cover the end of the thread. You would need some sort of spacer to tidy things up.
 
These Nutserts (= Rivnuts) are open ended, giving only a very slight advantage over a hole with a nut and bolt. If you could buy blind ones with a closed end they would be the perfect solution. Otherwise you are going to need bolts with nylon or rubber washers to close them off when the polycarbonate boards are not in place.
 
These Nutserts (= Rivnuts) are open ended, giving only a very slight advantage over a hole with a nut and bolt. If you could buy blind ones with a closed end they would be the perfect solution. Otherwise you are going to need bolts with nylon or rubber washers to close them off when the polycarbonate boards are not in place.

Thanks Vyv... yeah I saw you can buy blind ones. The frame is aluminium and the Rivnuts are stainless... will this cause some dissimilar corrosion over time? What about rubber well nuts? I suppose the additional diameter might be a problem as I've have to drill out an enormous hole...

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The other complexity with a Rivnuts might be the inside of the frame. See photo below where whole comes through. It's a kind of channel.

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If it was my boat I would make some slotted frames from varnished hardwood and fix them around the bottom and sides of the windows so that the stormboards could simply slid in from the top when required.

If the weather was bad I wouldn't want to be messing about with nuts and screws.,
 
I believe they would split your perspex, or fibreglass as they were tightened.

Mike

Do you think they would split solid fibreglass? I believe my deck saloon walls are at least 7-10mm. Would need to check but they look like it on rough inspection without removing he window frame.
 
These Nutserts (= Rivnuts) are open ended, giving only a very slight advantage over a hole with a nut and bolt. If you could buy blind ones with a closed end they would be the perfect solution. Otherwise you are going to need bolts with nylon or rubber washers to close them off when the polycarbonate boards are not in place.

I have found some closed ended aluminium nutserts... If my frames are coated aluminium, do you think aluminium nutserts will be the only option or will stainless be ok? If Stainless am I like to get them corroding together after a year or two?
 
My storm windows are very similar, but the grabrail on my decksaloon is on the side, just above the window frames, rather than on the OP's top. The storm windows each have two hooks bolted on made from stainless flat, which hook onto the rail. The bottom of the storm windows fit into a stainless "U" section, running along under the window frames. The "U" is fitted with two rivnuts for each storm window.

To fit them I engage the hooks onto the top rail, holding the storm board nearly upside down, rotate it into position, when the bottom edge fits into the "U", and screw the roundhead s/s socket screws in the rivnuts, through the corresponding holes in the storm windows. It all takes moments. I cannot claim any credit for the method, as the storm windows were fitted when we bought the boat.

In practice, I only use them when laid up ashore for the winter, when they make a really useful contribution to cut down on condensation on the alloy frames. The actual windows are double glazed already, so condensation on the glass is not a problem.
 
My storm windows are very similar, but the grabrail on my decksaloon is on the side, just above the window frames, rather than on the OP's top. The storm windows each have two hooks bolted on made from stainless flat, which hook onto the rail. The bottom of the storm windows fit into a stainless "U" section, running along under the window frames. The "U" is fitted with two rivnuts for each storm window.

To fit them I engage the hooks onto the top rail, holding the storm board nearly upside down, rotate it into position, when the bottom edge fits into the "U", and screw the roundhead s/s socket screws in the rivnuts, through the corresponding holes in the storm windows. It all takes moments. I cannot claim any credit for the method, as the storm windows were fitted when we bought the boat.

In practice, I only use them when laid up ashore for the winter, when they make a really useful contribution to cut down on condensation on the alloy frames. The actual windows are double glazed already, so condensation on the glass is not a problem.

Any chance of a photo please?
 
Ok it's follow up time.

So I tried some aluminium blank ended RivNuts (Nutserts) and they appear to have secured well even though not necessarily riveted up property as it goes into an small aluminium channel. Even so it seems to have expanded in place and feels pretty secure when I try to pull out the nutserts with some force.

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Then 8mm polycarbonate with a neoprene seal which presses onto the aluminium frame. Hoping this will reduce the condensation on the inside significantly and maybe also in the windows acting as double glazing.
 
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On Fairwinds we have two sets of bolts, longer for when the stormboards are fitted and shorter for when they are not. The bit inside the saloon is covered/tightened using a nice shiny dome nut.

- W
 
Nice job of working through it.

I would add that the holes in the polcarbonate need to be oversize, since the windows will expand at the different rate than the alloy frame, and because the polycarbonate will flex when hit by a wave. Second, I would use more than 4 bolts, perhaps 6. Finally, use some big washers with rubber gaskets, related to the oversized holes. This will give a firm hold without starting a crack.

Looks good and you'll love it when it gets cold. I leave storm windows on as soon as it gets below 55F at night. They just keep the boa a more eve temperature.
 
Nice job of working through it.

I would add that the holes in the polcarbonate need to be oversize, since the windows will expand at the different rate than the alloy frame, and because the polycarbonate will flex when hit by a wave. Second, I would use more than 4 bolts, perhaps 6. Finally, use some big washers with rubber gaskets, related to the oversized holes. This will give a firm hold without starting a crack.

Looks good and you'll love it when it gets cold. I leave storm windows on as soon as it gets below 55F at night. They just keep the boa a more eve temperature.

Good advice. I was wondering about hole size. The feel pretty secure with 4 bolts but since the nutserts are so low profile and I haven't substitutes any screws in the frame, then no reason I couldn't add 2 more. I may also increase the wind that of the neoprene seal to look tidier. Will report back when job complete and will install for Biscay and Atlantic next year en route to Patagonia :)
 
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