Fixing a Propeller to the Shaft??

[JeffBoath]

Recently bought an Elizabethan 31 that I'm delighted with, she's currently on the hard before "lift in" in a couple of weeks. I've tried to fit the prop today and found that the drilling in the prop shaft which takes the spilt pin, doesn't line up with the hole in the retaining nut? Should I shim the nut (if I tighten if up it it only reveals half a hole as it effectively screws on beyond the ideal place) or should I re-drill the shaft with the nut hard up against the prop (it already has 2 holes drilled in it from previuos efforts).

 

[White Horse]

Don't drill any more holes through the shaft. There should only be one otherwise it weakens it. Use a torque wrench on the nut not brute force and then a little extra to line up the holes. If that does not work then fit a washer and try again. You can remove metal from the washer with a file on emery paper.

 

[david_bagshaw]

file the edge of the castilations, to get pin through.

even remove castilation if nessary, the pin is to stop nut un doing not to keep prop on after all.

if new prop to the shaft check the key is not binding on the top of the key way, preventing prop fitting without strain to its hub.

 

[VicS]

file the edge of the castilations, to get pin through.

even remove castilation if nessary, the pin is to stop nut un doing not to keep prop on after all.

if new prop to the shaft check the key is not binding on the top of the key way, preventing prop fitting without strain to its hub.

I'm assuming that it is not a castellated nut. Rather a plain nut drilled for the pin.

With a castellated nut and two holes at right angles though the shaft it would be unlikely to be impossible to get a pin through one or other of the holes.

A castellated nut might be an answer if not one already.

I'd not file down the castellations !

Changing/shimming the thickness of the washer would be the solution if really necessary

 

[ianat182]

Note- a stainless washer and split pin !



ianat182

 

[JeffBoath]

Your right, it's not a casellated nut, just a plain one with a drilling in. I assume that shimming will be the only answer.

 

[scottie]

Take the key out and grind or lap the prop on to the shaft till it fits .

 

[bignick]

There's a reason castellated nuts were invented.... Can you not get hold of one?

 

[oldharry]

Read the OP; Its not castellated, its been drilled more than once, so redrilling is not an option and it is winding BEYOND the hole, so being brutal will only make matters worse. Shimming is the only answer, unless the nut can be backed off, and the torque checked to see if it is tight enough when it IS aligned.

Probably the prop was riding the key slightly when it was originally set up so did not seat firmly on the taper. Now that it has been reset, the hub is riding slightly further up than it was. With two holes already in the shaft it will be too weak to take a third drilling.

 

[JeffBoath]

Thanks very much for all the helpfull advice, I've drawn the conclusion that the only way to effectively take up the free play is shimming. Hopefully I can get some appropriate shims as I don't really want to end up filing down washers. To my eye it's less than the thickness of a standard washer, I would guesstimate around 10 thou (ish)

 

[VicS]

Thanks very much for all the helpfull advice, I've drawn the conclusion that the only way to effectively take up the free play is shimming. Hopefully I can get some appropriate shims as I don't really want to end up filing down washers. To my eye it's less than the thickness of a standard washer, I would guesstimate around 10 thou (ish)

I dont know the diameter of the shaft or the thread pitch but based on guesses and what you say about the hole only being half visible my estimate was about 10 thou.
You can always back the nut off and measure with a feeler gauge