Fitting wood floors

muckypup

muckypup

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Harlequin is in pretty good shape for he age, but one of biggest let downs is the aging carpets. SWMBO would like to replace these with a hard floor (easier to clean up dog hair and baby sick).

I could see 3 main options... real treak which looks expensive, fake wood, probably the stuff made for bathrooms, or just fake such as that tek-deck stuff.

I had a look and with all the engine access panels (the whole saloon floor lifts up for engine access), steps, a couple of cabin etc, it looks a complex task to make it look nice. Especially the edging bit and inset lifting handles.

Anyone any suggestions, or should I leave it to a professional installer?

S.
 
It's certainly one solution, although I'm not sure my woodworking skills are up to the job. I started 2 weeks ago making a set of wooden steps and they are still not finished and a bit wobbly...
 
Not quite sure what to say about that. Every other way would require the same sort of skills. It would be an interesting winter project. What's the area?
 
The saloon is about 3m by 2m, most of which are large panels which lift up for access to the saloon.

I suppose what I'm really looking for is any websites which supply (which you have already suggested one), or hints & tips, or "don't do it, it's too difficult for a beginner"...

I know that household flooring you have to leave quite a gap around the edge to cope with expansion.. do you need to do the same for a boat?

S.
 
If you can use a jig-saw (powered) with a reasonable degree of accuracy and suitable blade, might be worth looking @ the teak & holly flooring veneer supplied by Kayospruce. Around the £85.00 for an 8x4' sheet, I think about 2mm thick.....trims well with a plane, cuts with a stanley knife and glues to existing floors. No conections, just a satisfied user. HTH
 
If the sole is sound (floors ar the vertical bits supporting the sole) what about bonding flotex carpet to each panel, no slip, good grip, designed for showers etc, soft and warm and very easy to clean. A lot easier to fit just lay panels down on it , cut round with stanly knife and glue on with contact adesive.
 
Have you considered just removing the old carpet and laying a single section of rubber backed marine carpet, it will not slide around and will have no joints.

just means you have to lift the carpet to access hatches under it. We had a set up like this on a boat we had some years back, made cleaning easy, pull it out and hose it off. Cheap too.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Sticking to the 'wood' solution theme - curiously I have a wooden boat with solid iroko (1" thick) boards and was thinking of fitting carpets! - my only concern would be the exisiting edges. If they are radiused (rounded), that could complicate making a nice edge. Are the existing floors plywood? How are they edged? Otherwise, its a case of a nice sound base, some epoxy and slightly overlarge panel either something like the Robbins stuff or the teak and holly suggested above which is glued on top and then trimmed. There is a need (I think) to think about the edges. They will be vulnerable when the panels are lifted for access and I think I would want to try to have something sound sorted there. Whip the carpet up and add some pictures to your website.
 
Yes, all the floors are ply except for the heads, which wouldn't be getting any boarding anyway.

The thin veneer is one solution, but as you say, it's the edges that are a worry.

They do some 6mm thick stuff (I guess 4mm ply with the 2mm veneer already stuck on). I wonder about getting some 6mm square strips of teak and cut the the ply 6mm too small in each direction and then edge with the teak strips (more work and probably more sanding.

I will have to get some more pics as I can't just pop down as Harlequin is 80 miles from where I live. It will be useful for planning.

Steve
 
I would like to get rid of carpet. The dog hair gets trapped in it and makes cleaning quite a chore.

S.
 
Yes, that's the kind of edging I was thinking of. Adds to the work of course but would add a good finish and protect the edge of the veneer. Need some precision cuts. In other words it might be worth getting someone like Robbins to cut the panels to precise measurements - I guess the cost of cutting would not be large if done by the supplier - 5mm too small all round leaving you 1 mm 'play' to deal with any out of true on the exisiting edges. Sounds like a very nice job. Have you got to lift any existing lifting handles and refit them?
 
There are some extrusions, but these don't extend to cover the corners of the hatches. I've just been though the hundreds of pictures I have of the the boat, and none show the full saloon.

There are some lifting handles, but I want them to be flush fitted so I may have to buy square ones to make it easier to chisel out a recess.

S.
 
Best supplier I know of lifting handles is Timage at Braintree. Most chandlers can get their stuff. They have quite a broad range as I recall especially if you need something larger. The round ones are quite easy to cut out if you use a hole saw of the right size. However, it pays to get a short arbor - the centre drill that holds it in position, other wise you get a hole in the centre right through the floor board. Unless that doesn't matter of course.
 
ah.. I hadn't thought about about a hole saw. That's probably easier than trying to chisel out a square cutout!

S.
 
[ QUOTE ]
ah.. I hadn't thought about about a hole saw. That's probably easier than trying to chisel out a square cutout!

[/ QUOTE ]

Depending on size, have a look at 'Forstner' bits, too - Very neat, clean edged, flat-bottomed holes up to about 2".

Cheap ones from Screwfix have worked OK for me. (web page )

Andy
 
Absolutely. I had forgotten about those. My recollection though is that the diameter of the lift handles plate is an awkward size. It would be, of course.
 
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