Fitting solar panel to moulded non slip deck ?

[actionoptics]

I have space on the wheel house roof for solar panels but the surface is mostly moulded non slip.
I can't find panels of the right size that will fit the moulded parts so the edges of the panels would have to
go over some of the smooth bits.
The suppliers of semi-flexible kits include sikaflex to glue the panels to the deck ( some also
have a grommet in each corner).
Has anyone had experience of sticking panels to a non slip deck and any experience of
covering the non slip and the smooth bits with a panel?
We don't often walk on top of the wheelhouse except when stowing the mainsail away in the stackpack.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I have space on the wheel house roof for solar panels but the surface is mostly moulded non slip.
I can't find panels of the right size that will fit the moulded parts so the edges of the panels would have to
go over some of the smooth bits.
The suppliers of semi-flexible kits include sikaflex to glue the panels to the deck ( some also
have a grommet in each corner).
Has anyone had experience of sticking panels to a non slip deck and any experience of
covering the non slip and the smooth bits with a panel?
We don't often walk on top of the wheelhouse except when stowing the mainsail away in the stackpack.

I have precisely the same problem at the moment, though a wee bit simpler because I never walk on the hatch garage and the coach roof, where the panels are going. I'm going to try sooper-dooper strong velcro.

 

[Puggy]

I use the hugely expensive flexible panels that just lie on the deck. They are very easy but I don't think they are very efficient. The panels produce a genuine trickle that would power a glow worm but not much more. If/when I ever manage to go further afield I will buy some proper, efficient fixed panels.

 

[William_H]

I use the hugely expensive flexible panels that just lie on the deck. They are very easy but I don't think they are very efficient. The panels produce a genuine trickle that would power a glow worm but not much more. If/when I ever manage to go further afield I will buy some proper, efficient fixed panels.

I have no experience of these fexible panels but suggest that if you know the power rating claim for the panel then you should be able to confirm if the panel is working correctly.
I did not know flexible were so inefficient. Generally watts divided by 20 will give current that you might expect under best conditions. If your panels then are delivering less than half of what you might expect from a similar sized rigid panel then I would suggest you have a failure. Check the panel short circuit current (disconnected from the battery) right at the paenl connection box. Short circuit current roughly equals current capability. good luck olewill

 

[Puggy]

I have no experience of these fexible panels but suggest that if you know the power rating claim for the panel then you should be able to confirm if the panel is working correctly.
I did not know flexible were so inefficient. Generally watts divided by 20 will give current that you might expect under best conditions. If your panels then are delivering less than half of what you might expect from a similar sized rigid panel then I would suggest you have a failure. Check the panel short circuit current (disconnected from the battery) right at the paenl connection box. Short circuit current roughly equals current capability. good luck olewill

Thanks olewill. You have prompted me to look at this again. I do need to check them out, however as we don't seem to ever get any sunshine here in the UK, it is hard to test them!

 

[ghostlymoron]

I've got a semi flex panel over a moulded non slip area. I'm going to bolt it down through the eyelet holes. Don't fancy glueing it down as its bound to lift off a curved area and the eventual removal of Sika from the moulded surface would be impossible. I've discounted velcro (even the strong stuff). Bolts are quick easy,

 

[JumbleDuck]

I've got a semi flex panel over a moulded non slip area. I'm going to bolt it down through the eyelet holes. Don't fancy glueing it down as its bound to lift off a curved area and the eventual removal of Sika from the moulded surface would be impossible. I've discounted velcro (even the strong stuff). Bolts are quick easy,

I've just bought a very nice flexible panel which has no eyelet holes and on which the cells come near enough to the edge that I don't want to drill any. Hence velcro. If it causes problems I can always re-engineer it later.

 

[[3889]]

I have precisely the same problem at the moment, though a wee bit simpler because I never walk on the hatch garage and the coach roof, where the panels are going. I'm going to try sooper-dooper strong velcro.

I'm going with 3M dual lock tape for the same thing. I have a flexi 100W panel secured with line through corner eyelets but find it still lifts and distorts in any decent wind and this has caused damage to the connector; securing all along the edges will hopefully solve this.
Are you going to bond the "velcro" to non-slip areas? Ideally this would be my choice but as I have a 2nd best option of using smooth gelcoat I'll try that first.
I'm avoiding sikaflex as I've been advised it is nigh on impossible to remove from non-slip.
Another option is using "Command Products" advertised on TV for hanging pictures. Anyone any experience of these? Only just realised these are made by 3M.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I'm going with 3M dual lock tape for the same thing. I have a flexi 100W panel secured with line through corner eyelets but find it still lifts and distorts in any decent wind and this has caused damage to the connector; securing all along the edges will hopefully solve this.
Are you going to bond the "velcro" to non-slip areas? Ideally this would be my choice but as I have a 2nd best option of using smooth gelcoat I'll try that first.

I've done a trial fitting of the slightly longer and thinner panel - with eyelets - which is going on the coachroof, and when I hold it down by the holes, the edges still lift significantly as it springs back to straight. As you say, that doesn't look good for wind. I think it needs attached along its length, hence velcro. I don't know how well it will stick to the non-slip finish, which on my point is s sort of lloyd loom pattern. Hence the experiment. If that doesn't work, option two is to bond it to a slightly larger substrate, in situ, which has been screwed down.