Dave70
Well-Known Member
Hello, I want to fit immersion [mains] heater to a 12 gallon hot water tank with calorifier on my ocean 30 circa 1972.any advice on this i.e. boat safety,etc.would be much appreciated,cheers,Dave.
Not getting much luck with replies to this one, are you Dave ? !!
How old is the present calorifier, and does it have a flange already fitted to take an immersion heater element?
Or are you asking for assistance with wiring etc?
hello,Hugh,good to hear from you, its 16 amp supply,so should have enough power,not sure about the flange,what do they look like?cheers,DaveDave,
My first thought on this one is, is there enough currrent in the shore supply to run an emersion heater? Is it an 8amp or 16 amp supply?
If there is enough juice and the calorifier is already fitted with a suitable flange, it should be straightforward. I am back down later this month and happy to come and look if you have no further progress by then.
HF
Well, first question is how long does the water stay hot after a good long run with the engine running? I suspect not long if the calorifier is almost 40 years old as the insulation is probably shot. In that case a new calorifier ready fitted with an immersion heater would be a good move.has far as i know its the original calorifior,not sure what a flange looks like,but cannot see anything obvious,any help appreciated,cheers,Dave
Well, first question is how long does the water stay hot after a good long run with the engine running? I suspect not long if the calorifier is almost 40 years old as the insulation is probably shot. In that case a new calorifier ready fitted with an immersion heater would be a good move.
Picture of mine shows the top of the calorifier with the red cap of the immersion heater - the flange is the large hole /screw in assembly where it screws into the tank.
You may find ASAP helpful:
http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/calorifier
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Thanks for that info,the water does stay hot for quite a while after a good run but i think i will probably opt for a new calorifier as suggested.cheers Dave
Thanks for that,will keep that in mnd.Cheers,DaveHave a really good websearch before buying.The prices can vary a LOT from the well known brand names right down to more budget stuff.No need for stainless or glass lined,good old insulated copper is fine.
Thanks for all the info,thats been a real helpon this matter.cheers,DaveBeing, in the game , as it were, you can do worse than Aquafax. I fited a new horizontal cylinder in my Birchwood and instantly gained about another 5 gallons of hot water. the immersion boss, for that is what it is called, was sited in the top, so not just a vertical turned on its side. That way you get a full tank of hot water.
As for wiring , as they only draw 1.5kw, you can use the marina supplies at 16amps.. this is best taken via an rcd on the shore power cabling...........this presupposes you have this? You must also use the heater supplied with the cylinder as they are usually 1 1/2", and standard domestics are 21/4". Domestics are 3kw, so bets avoided. strangely enough, thats why they use 1 1/2"
If you go to ASAP, they use a HOTPOT brad, good but a bit dear I found. They also have bracketry to support the tank ,,,,,,,,,, you can use a good 3/4" ply base, 4 wedges and some stuff called banding( from a Plumb Centre or similar. Has a screw hole every 25mm and is very strong. Just use a couple of 2BA screws and washers to provide the tensioning capability.
Use HEP 20 for the pipe connections (NOT the engine ones), and if you use the Aquafax one, it has a low point drain connection for the winter .
Hope that helps.