Fitting / cutting carpets - Advice please

Tradewinds

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I am about to replace my carpets this season. Last time I had it done by Jeckells at Wroxham - lovely job.

Unfortunately, I'm DIYing it this time and will use the old carpets as a template where I can but the main saloon carpet has been 'distorted' by over-enthusiastic cleaning last year so I'll be making a paper template. There are straight edges & curves.

I'm dreading doing the cutting out. It's from a largish gel-backed carpet piece.

My questions are:


  • How do you ensure the template doesn't move prior to marking out / cutting the new carpet piece?

  • Is it best to cut from the back (ie template reversed)?

  • What is the best means of cutting? Fixed blade Stanley knife or one of those knives with the retractable blade that you can snap off to get a fresh point. Or something else.

All advice / experiences welcome.
 
I am about to replace my carpets this season. Last time I had it done by Jeckells at Wroxham - lovely job.

Unfortunately, I'm DIYing it this time and will use the old carpets as a template where I can but the main saloon carpet has been 'distorted' by over-enthusiastic cleaning last year so I'll be making a paper template. There are straight edges & curves.

I'm dreading doing the cutting out. It's from a largish gel-backed carpet piece.

My questions are:


  • How do you ensure the template doesn't move prior to marking out / cutting the new carpet piece?

  • Is it best to cut from the back (ie template reversed)?

  • What is the best means of cutting? Fixed blade Stanley knife or one of those knives with the retractable blade that you can snap off to get a fresh point. Or something else.

All advice / experiences welcome.

There shouldn't be an issue with using the old carpet as a template unless its shrunk. You should cut the carpet slightly over size and lay in place then using a sharp stanley knife (be prepared to change blades or sharpen on a stone frequently) trim the carpet to final fit in place. You can follow the contours of the bulkheads/lockers/etc.
 
There shouldn't be an issue with using the old carpet as a template unless its shrunk. You should cut the carpet slightly over size and lay in place then using a sharp stanley knife (be prepared to change blades or sharpen on a stone frequently) trim the carpet to final fit in place. You can follow the contours of the bulkheads/lockers/etc.
Thanks for that.

I don't want to cut in-situ as the floor is a smooth grp moulding which would get damaged by the knife blade as I trimmed (I assume).
 
To prevent template moving, place on back of carpet & mark out with felt tip. When satisfied with template fit, cut out to marker pen line.

It makes little difference cutting from back or front. After trimming run a bit of white PVA adhesive around the edge to prevent fraying. It will dry clear & invisible & means you don't need edge binding.

Don't worry, the cost is low enough that you could renew every season if you wanted, so no need to get it utterly perfect - close enough for Jazz will do.
 
If necessary, you can cut in situ using scissors. I was unable to use the old carpets as templates as the previous owner had already replaced the original carpets badly and the ones I was replacing didn't fit.

I tried cutting with a knife over wood to protect the GRP but it was impossible to get an accurate fit, so I resorted to scissors.
 
I managed to persuade a local carpet fitter to cut mine to suit in situ, he was extremely careful (he had me watching!) and used a standard fixed knife blade renewed often - when pressing the carpet into the edges there is always a small radius as the carpet turns from flat to vertical this space meant the grp remained unmarked. Cost £50 for all carpets, saloon, forecabin, galley and aft. Galley carpet separate to saloon so the carpet behind the companionway steps can be lifted for bilge access. Used waterproof bathroom/kitchen carpet - it has a non slip back coating, like a friends Beneteau factory carpet. Been down 3 years now and still looks good.

I lifted the saloon table out of the way, carpet installed under, acts as a good securing point.

I then removed the carpets and had all the edges bound, like a rug, looks really proffessional - that was another £50. I asked the local carpet supplier who they could recommend for the edging. The only edging that had to be done by hand as the machine needs an entry point, where the circles cut out for the companionway steps. I asked for spare edging material and did them by hand using sail needles, not quite as good as the machine finish but with the steps in situ it covers the hand edging.
 
To prevent template moving, place on back of carpet & mark out with felt tip. When satisfied with template fit, cut out to marker pen line.

It makes little difference cutting from back or front. After trimming run a bit of white PVA adhesive around the edge to prevent fraying. It will dry clear & invisible & means you don't need edge binding.

Don't worry, the cost is low enough that you could renew every season if you wanted, so no need to get it utterly perfect - close enough for Jazz will do.
Thanks for the tips
 
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