Fitting aerial plug

The theorists will tell you it's essential. I have three connectors in my antenna, two below the mast step and one at the set. When I add in my SWR meter I have a total of five, none of which is soldered. Despite that I regularly read a SWR of 1.2.
 
I think it's best to solder it if you're using it on transmit, it will probably be OK unsoldered, but if the plug manufacturer says solder it, that is what I would expect a technician to do. In my work I've seen a few strange effects where bad contacts can increase harmonic generation, but that sort of thing tends to mean the wireless fails spec rather than not working.
 
The problem with soldering is that if you are making the connection on the deck, it's difficult to get sufficient temperature with my 12v soldering iron (I wish I'd bought a gas one) especially if its breezy. Also if the connection fails, you can't simply re-trim the cable and re-make the joint as the little hole where the inner conductor goes is full of solder.
I think I'll try Vyv's method for starters.
 
N connectors are designed to be soldered.

You MIGHT get away not soldering a new one, but it's certainly not to be advised.

But if re using a second hand one, there's really no choice as the pin will be full of solder. It's nigh on impossible to clean all the solder out.

You CAN re use it by soldering.

12V soldering irons are rubbish, get a gas powered one, they work outside okay in all but the indiest conditions.
 
ProDave said:
N connectors are designed to be soldered.

You MIGHT get away not soldering a new one, but it's certainly not to be advised.

But if re using a second hand one, there's really no choice as the pin will be full of solder. It's nigh on impossible to clean all the solder out.

You CAN re use it by soldering.

12V soldering irons are rubbish, get a gas powered one, they work outside okay in all but the indiest conditions.
Click to expand...

+1
 
If you are trying to use a 12 volt soldering iron run the engine. Because the watts produced in the soldering iron is proportional to V² pushing them up from 12 point something to 14 point something can make all the difference.

(I use a gas heated soldering iron ... but mine is heated on the gas stove!)
 
ProDave said:
N connectors are designed to be soldered.

You MIGHT get away not soldering a new one, but it's certainly not to be advised.

But if re using a second hand one, there's really no choice as the pin will be full of solder. It's nigh on impossible to clean all the solder out.

You CAN re use it by soldering.

12V soldering irons are rubbish, get a gas powered one, they work outside okay in all but the indiest conditions.
Click to expand...

+2

I use gas onesfrom Aldi. Built in igntion and come with a vwiety of tips including a hot knife which is excelent for rope work
 
N connector

Yes it needs to be soldered. If you have a pin full of solder you can buy a tiny drill bit from electronics suppliers 1mm or .8mm this will clean the pin out nicely.But may be cheaper to buy new connector. good luck olewill
 
David2452 said:
I normally use these http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/19733-n-crimp-plug-rg58-vn10-2051-vitelec.html no messing with solder, reliable and fast.
Click to expand...

Vitelec stuff is OK, but that will be designed to be crimped with two fairly expensive tools.
It's important to seal the coax against damp getting in, I prefer the clamp type plugs for amateur use.

Soldering outdoors can be a trial. I have a professional 12V soldering iron, thermostatically controlled, that works ok on a calmish day. A good toy to have is a mains solder gun which heats very quickly. They are cheap, and at 150W or so, easily powered from a cheap inverter.
Mine also works as a hot knife for rope.
It gets over the voltage drop when trying to use a 12V iron at the extremes of the boat. I've used one up a mast before now.
It's worth getting some low melt solder if you can, avoid the lead free stuff it melts much hotter. Also a flux pen helps.
 
ProDave said:
But if re using a second hand one, there's really no choice as the pin will be full of solder. It's nigh on impossible to clean all the solder out.
Click to expand...

There are three ways to clean the solder out. The quick and easy one is to hold the pin in some needle pliars (I use artery forceps) and heat it with the soldering iron until its very hot and the solder is molten. Then flick it or tap it on a bit of old wood and the solder should fly out - just watch which direction you are flicking molten solder in!!!

The second way is to use a solder sucker like this:http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&sugexp=egsbsh&gs_nf=1&cp=8&gs_id=v&xhr=t&q=solder+sucker&biw=1918&bih=983&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=16520676826578338775&sa=X&ei=YwhjT6efJoqb0QWcssGRCA&sqi=2&ved=0CFkQ8wIwAQ#ps-sellers

The third way would be to use some desoldering braid like this:http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=desolder+wick&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=9533759720&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4748583661781313999&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_6zom8088s3_b

Google for some instructions, but all methods are easy.

If you use the flick the solder out method, and you are left with a tiny residue, use a drill - solder is very soft.

To the OP. I agree with all those who say soldering would be the better option IMHO
 
An old trick to get a soldering iron up to a high temperature to solder something that is on the limit of its capacity is to either stick it in the gas flame of the cooker or do what TV repairmen did, and stick it into a ceramic hollow high power resistor - or something similar. Essentially 'get it out of the wind and weather' to allow it to overheat slightly!
 
Go for the solder. The connector was designed for it: it is perverse not to do it.
You are then not relying on some chance contacts for the functioning of a vital piece of equipment. Additionally you are minimising the potential for corrosion to interfere, particularly if there is penetration of moisture.
 
If you don't solder it, the first to suffer will often be other users close to you. The connection will begin to tarnish and may start to distort your transmitted signal, causing splatter to adjacent channels. Eventually you will start to notice a loss of range or sensitivity, but you may well have been interfering with other radio users for some time before it becomes bad enough for you to notice.
 
The reasons I want to avoid soldering are:-
1. Difficulty of getting enough heat in the joint on a windy deck
2. Ability to re-make the joint if I get problems in future

Could I solve no. 1 by using a gas blow lamp to heat the centre pin then inserting the (tinned) centre conductor and touching some solder on it.
I've decided to carry a spare to get round difficulty no. 2
 
ghostlymoron said:
The reasons I want to avoid soldering are:-
1. Difficulty of getting enough heat in the joint on a windy deck
2. Ability to re-make the joint if I get problems in future

Could I solve no. 1 by using a gas blow lamp to heat the centre pin then inserting the (tinned) centre conductor and touching some solder on it.
I've decided to carry a spare to get round difficulty no. 2
Click to expand...
You could - but you might easily over heat it and then the solder goes all funny and doesn't flow.

Why not get a cardboard box to use as a shelter from the wind and elements and use the blow-lamp to give some extra 'oomph' to the soldering iron? Just don't set the cardboard box on fire.

If its all done well and sealed properly then you shouldn't have to re-make it.
 
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