Fitting a strongpoint on deck for an inner forestay

GrahamM376

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The deckhead is not a flat surface, there is a moulded toe-rail which forms a void on the underside. I would intend to pack this out with glass- open to suggestions as to whether the final bedding of the beam to the deckhead should be with sealant or resin.

On the tensioner, again, would it be right to consider that there are three options- blocks/lanyards, highfield lever, and bottlescrew- which can achieve progressively greater tension at the expense of adjustment potential (thus making it harder to fit the stay on a heaving foredeck).

Personally, I would use a hardwood beam (windowsill section or similar) which can be planed to shape and then bedded in resin, cross bolted through bulkhead and glassed in.

Have a look the SeaSure lever - http://www.sea-sure.co.uk/index.asp...f=&InBox=Adjustment&cct=0&TypeSearch=&subcat= Although this is for 8mm wire, they also do one for 6mm.
 

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How much tension is needed on an inner forestay. I'm guessing that increasing Inner forestay tension would reduce main forestay tension.
It seems some of the suggestions would have more strength than the stem fitting!

On my Fulmar when the temporary forestay is tensioned the permanent forestay looses some tension.That's not a problem on my boat beause the top atachment point for both wires is very close but on a rig where they are very far apart the top of the mast could bend backwards due to backsty tension.This is a point to bear in mind although I don't think it'll ever be a problem.
 

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Personally, I would use a hardwood beam (windowsill section or similar) which can be planed to shape and then bedded in resin, cross bolted through bulkhead and glassed in.

Have a look the SeaSure lever - http://www.sea-sure.co.uk/index.asp...f=&InBox=Adjustment&cct=0&TypeSearch=&subcat= Although this is for 8mm wire, they also do one for 6mm.

That's also a good solution.The beam can be made very stiff by bolting two lenghts of steel bar on each side spawning most of the length.
 

davidfox

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Why dont you laminate up 4 or 5 pieces of 6mm ply, liberally coated with epoxy (except the underside of the last piece so the props dont stick) wedged into the profile of the deckhead with a series of props off of the forward berths or whatever and then finally glassing the whole lot in, it would be immensly strong, especially is glassed to the forward bulkhead, if the pieces were full deck head width and say 150mm deep (front to back) it would be dead easy to do and cheap. the object surely is to spread the loads over as wide an area as possible/necessary.
 

Danny

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...So I am contemplating fitting a deck eye which is backed up by a sturdy beam mounted athwartships under the deck, to prevent upwards movement of the deck. What I have in mind is a piece of angle-section metal, spanning the width of the foredeck, and with its faces flush against the deck-head and the forward bulkhead, so it would not take up any space.
From a quick look at what's available I think I would have to go with aluminium as this can be bought in bigger sizes than stainless angle.
I used pretty much this solution on a GK29 many years ago. I used a steel angle section. I think it was about 75x75mm. This was NOT stainless! I mounted it INSIDE the chain locker, against the bulkhead and with a shaped wooden pad between it and the deck (as the deck was curved). It was bolted to the bulkhead and bonded to underside of the deck and to the bulkhead with glass tape and resin.

I used a U bolt mounted longitudinally as the stay anchor point. I'd originally intended using a transverse-mounted cranked U bolt but couldn't source a suitable one at the time.

Had no problem with corrosion even though the angle wasn't stainless.
 

tarik

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Inner forestay masthead fixing

I am having a total mind block, could someone please remond me of he name of the masthead fixing for an internal forestay. I have seen various designs but want to research it further - any ideas ?

As ever many thanks for all replies.


David
 

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I am having a total mind block, could someone please remond me of he name of the masthead fixing for an internal forestay. I have seen various designs but want to research it further - any ideas ?

As ever many thanks for all replies.


David

http://www.accastillage-diffusion.com/defaut.php?id=5&gamme=592&produit=2283&article=8340

g11018.jpg
 

Kelpie

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Thanks again for the replies and ideas. I will consider the wooden option and have a better look at the shape of the deckhead- from memory I think it is mostly flat, but if there is a curve I can see the advantage of making up a timber or laminated ply beam.

I'm starting to think a bit more about the stay itself. The Vega has 5mm rigging as standard, with 6mm on the forestay if you have a furler.
As I understand it, you really need the tension of the inner forestay to overcome that of the permanent stay. Intuitively, I would have thought that a thinner guage wire can be tenioned up more easily than a thicker one- so on this basis I would go for a 5mm inner stay. After all, that is the standard rig when using hanked sails on a Vega.
It just happens that I have a 5mm forestay already (cos I made a balls up of ordering new standing rigging and didn't know about needing a 6mm one to go with my furler... oops...).
 

Kelpie

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What gauge for the removable stay?

Just to bump this question...

How do I go about choosing the gauge of the removable inner forestay? Does it need to be the same as the main forestay, or given that it is not carrying the weight of a furler, can I use a smaller gauge (the same as the rest of the rigging)?
 

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Just to bump this question...

How do I go about choosing the gauge of the removable inner forestay? Does it need to be the same as the main forestay, or given that it is not carrying the weight of a furler, can I use a smaller gauge (the same as the rest of the rigging)?

I think you can go down a size.My forestay is 7mm(well it's 8mm but only because I fitted a furling gear meant for a larger boat, the recommended size is 7mm) and my temporary forestay is 6mm.It's been there for years and has seen a lot of use.
 
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