Fitting a second engine start stop switch

KAM

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Has anyone done this. I assume it's as simple as breaking into the wiring loom and fitting an additional push button for the stop but not sure how to deal with the key switch.
 
The stop solenoid usually has a switched positive, from a momentary push button, you can wire as many in parallel as you like. You can break into the wiring or you can connect another pair of wires to the back of the existing button, whichever is more convenient.

With regard to the key switch, what is it you're trying to do ?
 
Has anyone done this. I assume it's as simple as breaking into the wiring loom and fitting an additional push button for the stop but not sure how to deal with the key switch.
I have backup to both but in 20 years I have never used either. If you are worried about the reliability of your electrical wiring/switches then rip out and replace with quality.

1) Stop Solenoid: I have mechanical backup as I can reach into the engine compartment and press the end of the solenoid.
2) start/crank switch: I fitted a press button close to the startermotor bypassing the main wiring.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Wiring is fine. Switch panel is just inside the companionway but it would be nice to stop start from the tiller position without having to leap about too much. I don't want to move the Yanmar panel. Getting lazy.
 
Wiring is fine. Switch panel is just inside the companionway but it would be nice to stop start from the tiller position without having to leap about too much. I don't want to move the Yanmar panel. Getting lazy.
try having to dive down into a hull for the pull ,,, or two !!
 
Wiring is fine. Switch panel is just inside the companionway but it would be nice to stop start from the tiller position without having to leap about too much. I don't want to move the Yanmar panel. Getting lazy.

Stop button as post #2.

Starter button pretty much the same. But, to do both, you could run a single positive (switched) to the tiller position and connect it to buttons for the stop and start, the two outgoing wires go to the stop solenoid and starter relay respectively.

Depending on how lazy you are getting, you can also do something with the ignition switch. Disconnect the outgoing "ignition" wire and connect it to a latching relay. Fit a momentary push button to the panel, which, when pressed will open/close the relay. You can then parallel this button to the tiller position with the other two buttons. The key switch below would only be used to start the engine, although you could of course remove it and fit a button/switch.

An alternative to buttons would be Carling Contura rocker switches. At the tiller, a single momentary switch to turn the ignition on/off and a mom-off-mom rocker for start/stop. The extortionately priced rocker switches that Yanmar use on some of their panels are actually Carling switches.
 
As said stop is easy. Start "ignition on" not so easy. My guess si that you would end up almost always using the remote on off facility. So a toggle switch to switch "ignition"on in parallel to key switch ignition on circuit. ie power to that circuit. Likewise you might want glow plug heater powered by a momentary switch in parallel to power them. Lastly a momentary on switch to activate engine crank.
Doing it this simple way will leave "ignition " on even if you switch off at normal control panel if it was last switched on remotely. I am guessing not a problem.
There are natty circuits of spdt switches for lights where you can switch on at one place and switch off an another place. However this would not be practical with usual key switch. ol'will
 
Wiring is fine. Switch panel is just inside the companionway but it would be nice to stop start from the tiller position without having to leap about too much. I don't want to move the Yanmar panel. Getting lazy.
You dont say what engine. Presumably a Yanmar but not a GM as you mention a stop button but not a start button.

You could wire a similar key switch in parallel with the existing switch . That would energise the existing warning lights and buzzer circuits, allow remote operation of the preheating/ glow plugs and operate the starter.
A button, or momentary on switch, in parallel with the exiting stop button would allow remote stopping.

You could prevent both control stations being active simultaneously by putting both keys on the same key ring if you wish.
Both stop buttons will be active whichever keyswitch is on

You could use simple switches as William suggests rather than a second key switch.

If you look at the operating manual for JH series engines you will find schematic wiring diagrams for full dual station control including remote warning lights, buzzer and tachometer but I guess that is a step or two further that you want to go.
 
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