Fitting a Bilge Pump

[richardknight]

Currently we have a manual bilge pump, however, I'd like to add an electronic one in addition to this. What's the best way of doing this? Comehow combining the two outlet pipes or drilling another outlet hole and keeping the pipes seperate?

Appreciate any advice.

Richard

 

[Guest]

Just incorperate a non return valve in the outlet pipe!
Regards
Bluebeard

 

[richardknight]

Preumably I'd then join the two pipes together as soon as possible to cut don on pipe, and incorporate a non-return value into both?

 

[Andy]

depending on the work involved etc i would opt for a seperate pipe so you have two totally independant systems in case of emergency.. thats just me though.

 

[JohnR]

And I'd run a light/alarm to the helm position so you know if and when the pump is running.

 

[Guest]

Always presuming he intends to fit a float switch.

I would go with two seperate systems "just in case", this would also allow both pumps to be used in an emergency.

Regards,

Peter
http://www.mistressofmourne.com

 

[LadyInBed]

Two separate systems.
Fit a float switch.
Fit a manual on/off switch in parallel to the float switch
Fit an ‘on’ indicator lamp / buzzer / or both
Wire the system via a fuse straight off the domestic battery (BEFORE any 1/2/both switch) so that it will pump out when the boat is unattended.

 

[mtb]

Re: Hot tip for the day

Bang on as it should be .
You could also instead of relying on electronics fit an automatic switch which wont go wrong wont get stuck up or down due to crap in bilge that relies on water pressure , thought of it yet !!!









Ok then I'll tell you a washing machine pump switch certainly old Hot points have them .
All you have to do is use the right size diameter pipe so that the amount of pressure required at the switch is correct for the amount of water height .
When my college tutor and I worked this out all those years ago and used a pressure measuring gauge ( not a manometer), we found the right size was 1.1/2"" inches so there or there abouts will be ok
once fitted no electronics to go wrong and very reliable to .
Nice little project as well B&Q do plastic fittings and glue.
Mick



http://homepage.ntlworld.com/boats
I want a big steel ex trawler / tug v/cheep or swap for tug

 

[Guest]

An outlet system designed for a manual pump may not suit an "electronic" one, by which I assume you mean a small submersible pump of the Jabsco/Johnson/Rule type.

The reason is that any manual pump will incorporate a non return valve. A submersible pump does not. If your outlet is low in the freeboard, and/or if a swan neck bend is not fitted, then there is a significant risk of downflooding through the bilge pump, i.e. you sink. I would not favour attempting to eliminate this risk by fitting a nn-return valve since (subject to type) this may impede the efficiency of the pump. Many non-return valves are in any case insufficiently reliable to be put in charge of the watertight integrity of a boat. The most suitable answer is a swan neck bend in the outlet hose up to the highest level possible under the deck, and an outlet through the topsides whish is as high as possible above waterline to minimise the risk of it being submerged.

 

[LadyInBed]

What a good Idea NM

 

[johnt]

ho hum .........a few small thoughts

high discharge position ........you loose up to 1/3 of the flow so your 1200gph is only worth 800
the ideal position for a bilge discharge is centre transom just above the water line

my own set up ? ........ electric pump feeds THROUGH the manual pump and is controlled by a two way switch (one way spring loaded to OFF)with a warning light

so it has low discharge point ..non return valve ..and everything else discussed and all I did was replace the strum box with an electric pump ........AND IT WORKS PERFECTLY


K.I.S.S............. works every time !