Fischer Panda turning over but won't start

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RO'D

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The generator was running happily about a fortnight ago.
Since then however it won't start. It will turn over repeatedly but won't start.
Thinking it was a fuel issue, I changed the fuel filter and have used an electric pump to ensure that fuel is being drawn through the filter.
I removed the short length of fuel hose from filter to genny and confirmed it's clear of any blockages.
The electric fuel pump has power and I followed the instructions to de aerate, by removing the plug at the solenoid and pressing start.
I can hear the electric pump whirring and fuel is being drawn through the genny and coming out the fuel excess spigot, just as per the manual.
When I put a multimeter on the solenoid it appears to have 12v across it.
The genny is started by the domestic bank, their level of charge does not seem to be the issue as the genny still won't start with the engine running and charging those batteries, nor after a day alongside and charging with shore power when domestic Bank is at 13.9 or 14V.
Any suggestions on what I should try next?
It's a 4kw Fischer Panda...thanks in advance!
 
RO'D said:
The generator was running happily about a fortnight ago.
Since then however it won't start. It will turn over repeatedly but won't start.
Thinking it was a fuel issue, I changed the fuel filter and have used an electric pump to ensure that fuel is being drawn through the filter.
I removed the short length of fuel hose from filter to genny and confirmed it's clear of any blockages.
The electric fuel pump has power and I followed the instructions to de aerate, by removing the plug at the solenoid and pressing start.
I can hear the electric pump whirring and fuel is being drawn through the genny and coming out the fuel excess spigot, just as per the manual.
When I put a multimeter on the solenoid it appears to have 12v across it.
The genny is started by the domestic bank, their level of charge does not seem to be the issue as the genny still won't start with the engine running and charging those batteries, nor after a day alongside and charging with shore power when domestic Bank is at 13.9 or 14V.
Any suggestions on what I should try next?
It's a 4kw Fischer Panda...thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Likely a faulty sensor. Try pulling off the over heat or oil pressure sensor. Depending what type they are the wire will need earthing or 12v.
RO'D said:
The generator was running happily about a fortnight ago.
Since then however it won't start. It will turn over repeatedly but won't start.
Thinking it was a fuel issue, I changed the fuel filter and have used an electric pump to ensure that fuel is being drawn through the filter.
I removed the short length of fuel hose from filter to genny and confirmed it's clear of any blockages.
The electric fuel pump has power and I followed the instructions to de aerate, by removing the plug at the solenoid and pressing start.
I can hear the electric pump whirring and fuel is being drawn through the genny and coming out the fuel excess spigot, just as per the manual.
When I put a multimeter on the solenoid it appears to have 12v across it.
The genny is started by the domestic bank, their level of charge does not seem to be the issue as the genny still won't start with the engine running and charging those batteries, nor after a day alongside and charging with shore power when domestic Bank is at 13.9 or 14V.
Any suggestions on what I should try next?
It's a 4kw Fischer Panda...thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Start with the fuel solenoid. Is it getting power? Is it opening?
 
Possibly worn or corroded valves.

Try removing the injector, squirt in a tablespoon of engine oil, connect the injector to its feed pipe, but not inserted, then attempt a start with the injector out.

Observe the injector to see if it is squirting fuel, but do not get too close as injected fuel can generate skin. This spin will also spread the oil all over the valves.

If it doesn't squirt fuel then further checks of the injection system are necessary.

Reinstall the injector and see if it will now start.

If it does then it may require a top overhaul to restore decent valve seats. The oil increases the sealing of the cold valves and allows sufficient compression for the engine to start.

On these Farymann engines the hardened seats are not very deep, and at most one valve lap / grind. When I had this problem on my Turbo 36 I ended up have new seats installed by an engine specialist and fitted new valves.

If you do need parts go to an industrial diesel specialist and not Fischer Panda or other marine diesel specialist, unless you like getting royally ripped off. The Farymann engines are very commonly used in industrial equipment and the internal parts are identical.

I have an extensive list of parts and overhaul manuals for the Farymann engines.
 
geem said:
Likely a faulty sensor. Try pulling off the over heat or oil pressure sensor. Depending what type they are the wire will need earthing or 12v.
Start with the fuel solenoid. Is it getting power? Is it opening?
Click to expand...
We replaced the temperature sensor over the winter after a series of over heating issues. Since then running temperatures have stayed consistent, even after 6 hours running... So I'm hoping that's OK...

Re the fuel solenoid opening or not, how do I check that?
I would have thought that 12 volts showing at the solenoid would have taken care of opening the solenoid fuel valve?
Thanks all
 
I had a very similar problem. Generator was running perfectly for a couple of hours, next day no start. Turned out the issue was a severe distortion in the cylinder head valve guide position. Removed cylinder head, tried to lap in the valve but you could see small amounts of daylight past the valve seat on one side.
Took it into a local engine engineering company, eventually had to have a new valve seat fitted. They had never seen distortion like it and thought something else had happened. No over temperature errors before, during or after the event! Crap cylinder head!
Best quick easy check is a very small amount of easy start squirted into the inlet whilst cranking. If it doesn’t fire the issue is compression, valves, piston bores etc.
 
On ours... it was head corrosion. Engineer tried all the things to get it going again but the exhaust manifold and head were too far gone.
Bit of an expensive rebuild and a better updated manifold fitted.
We take more care to run it more frequently now.
Hope yours is something more straight forward and less ££.

M
 
It seems many engine issues are with the cylinder head, when I took my generator cylinder head into the engineers they had never seen the way the exhaust guide had moved relative to the valve seat. They fitted a new valve seat central to the guide, re ground the valve. Every 50 to 100 hours I check the cylinder head torque and valve clearance, it does need slight adjustment from time to time.
 
In my case the fault was a broken microswitch inside the fuel pump. About £5 for a new part and some soldering required.
 
I can hear the electric pump whirring and fuel is being drawn through the genny and coming out the fuel excess spigot, just as per the manual. .....

when i had one the fuel solenoid was free flow in engine stop mode and only a small bleed through it in running mode. solenoid vas nearly vertically mounted on injection pump. take return pipe off it and block return with thumb, and give it a go... along with trying a direct 12v feed , it can be heard clicking, with power on/ off

Also it had an excess fuel lever which was useful for cold starts
 
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