First weekend onboard

[jimmy_the_builder]

Congrats on the new boat, looks fab. Seems like you've got a really clear idea of what you want in terms of spec and equipment, and have executed it well. Apart from the flexiteek is there anything else left on the to-do list? And did you get remotes for the thrusters? I found the remote for my bowthruster useful when single handing into pontoon berths.

 

[MapisM]

you can see part of the controller bellow the thruster controls

Ops, I did see that dashboard pic, but didn't notice the controls.
And neither I spotted them on the stern in the video (hence my question), but that was probably just a bit too dark...
Congratulations again!

 

[Anders_P42]

Congrats on the new boat, looks fab. Seems like you've got a really clear idea of what you want in terms of spec and equipment, and have executed it well. Apart from the flexiteek is there anything else left on the to-do list? And did you get remotes for the thrusters? I found the remote for my bowthruster useful when single handing into pontoon berths.

Thanks, I've had time to plan the spec I made the decision to buy last SIBS and had already done some research on some of the electronics I wanted installed. There are a few minor items left, the anchor pin and a DC switch to install somewhere in the salon so the Sat dish can be powered off without pulling the cushions off the sofa (Sat ACU lives under sofa).

Flexiteek should be installed by end of July if all goes to plan, the bathing platform, cockpit and flybridge are being done.

Anders

 

[Anders_P42]

Ops, I did see that dashboard pic, but didn't notice the controls.
And neither I spotted them on the stern in the video (hence my question), but that was probably just a bit too dark...
Congratulations again!

They're not 'proper' trim tabs, the Volvo blade style ones so they're not obvious on the transom. No idea how good/bad they are, probably better than nothing

http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...s/accessories/Trimsystems2/Pages/Default.aspx

 

[MapisM]

Yep, I understood that, when you pointed out the dashboard control.
Fwiw, I'm a tad skeptic that they can be as effective as traditional tabs, but I have no first hand experience.
It might well be that they are more than good enough, for the type of boat.
The next time you will be at sea, just try to play with them a bit.
If by lowering them you get a perceivable reduction of the angle of attack, and by lowering just one (say the port one) you see the boat heeling significantly (to stbd), it means that they do their job!

 

[Anders_P42]

I'll give that a try, port side half trim and she how she heels.

 

[bumpy_the_dog]

Hi Anders,

Thanks for persevering with the stern thruster thing.
The only info I really need, is how much access is cut in the side of the box that the steering arm is mounted on? I have nutted the rest of it out
You can access it by crawling down the starboard side in the lazzerette towards the transom and look right after the end of the fuel tank.
I also noticed that your Rocna does not have a retainer bow, would not risk using the anchor without it as it can jump out with chain rubbing on the gelcoat is not what you want.

Regards Scott

If next week's survey goes okay then Osmotech should be fitting a stern thruster to an Antares 30 either week commencing 28th July or week commencing 4th August, so if you need any info/photos from the fit just let me know.

 

[Elessar]

Hi Anders,

Thanks for persevering with the stern thruster thing.
The only info I really need, is how much access is cut in the side of the box that the steering arm is mounted on? I have nutted the rest of it out
You can access it by crawling down the starboard side in the lazzerette towards the transom and look right after the end of the fuel tank.
I also noticed that your Rocna does not have a retainer bow, would not risk using the anchor without it as it can jump out with chain rubbing on the gelcoat is not what you want.

Regards Scott

I've fitted quite a few sternthrusters to these. It is a fiddly install. Cut 4 holes in the box about 2 " from the corners then join them with a fein or similar. Basically you want a hole as big as you can get, with round corners, leaving about 2" of Grp all round. Do as much as you can from outside before bolting the thruster in. Don't forget you need to fabricate a motor support and a bilge water coffer.
It transforms these boats as the propwash is so significant, they're quite a handful without one.

 

[Elessar]

Yep, I understood that, when you pointed out the dashboard control.
Fwiw, I'm a tad skeptic that they can be as effective as traditional tabs, but I have no first hand experience.
It might well be that they are more than good enough, for the type of boat.
The next time you will be at sea, just try to play with them a bit.
If by lowering them you get a perceivable reduction of the angle of attack, and by lowering just one (say the port one) you see the boat heeling significantly (to stbd), it means that they do their job!

They're better than traditional tabs in my experience. Just as effective but much faster acting.

 

[MapisM]

They're better than traditional tabs in my experience. Just as effective but much faster acting.

Well, it also depends on the boat requirements, I reckon. On which type of boats did you try them?
Not fast sportboats I suppose, 'cause I've yet to see anything else than Mercury K-planes or similar stuff on them.
But as I said, they are probably fine (or even better, as you report) on cruisers.
If so, that's good news for Anders!

 

[Elessar]

Well, it also depends on the boat requirements, I reckon. On which type of boats did you try them?
Not fast sportboats I suppose, 'cause I've yet to see anything else than Mercury K-planes or similar stuff on them.
But as I said, they are probably fine (or even better, as you report) on cruisers.
If so, that's good news for Anders!

You know i cant remember, i drive more boats than most people. Have never driven properly fast boats though. Just over 60 knots the fastest ive ever used so you may be right on the fast stuff.

 

[Kawasaki]

Great Post Anders, well done:encouragement:

 

[Sydneysider]

Ok no problem, I'll crawl in and take some pics I'll be back on the boat tomorrow afternoon.

The retaining pin is on the list, I'll probably need to have something made up. It does seem a good fit though when pulled tight in. I had a stainless plate made up to protect the underneath as you recommended, I'm also looking at one to protect the anchor locker lid, as the chain flaps around hitting the edges when windlass is operating. May be a non issue if someone is up front with anchor locker open?

Anders

Thanks Anders,

Will look forward to the pics!

I always have the anchor locker lid open when I am using the anchor as you need to go to the front anyway to release the safety.
I have a windlass switch, on the flybridge only, but rarely use it, Do you have a switch on both helms? Somebody said to me once that the front of the anchor locker door could be trimmed to give better operation with the door down (as it just misses out), but I like to see what is happening in there.

I had my emergency tiller hot dipped galvanised, as the original "gold " finish was not holding up well to the marine environment, as a small bit of salt water was getting in there when I stored the dingy - Looks good.

Not sure why the pic is not appearing, had it working OK before



http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af284/Fourwinns205/IMG_11691_zpsd469e37d.jpg

 

[Sydneysider]

I've fitted quite a few sternthrusters to these. It is a fiddly install. Cut 4 holes in the box about 2 " from the corners then join them with a fein or similar. Basically you want a hole as big as you can get, with round corners, leaving about 2" of Grp all round. Do as much as you can from outside before bolting the thruster in. Don't forget you need to fabricate a motor support and a bilge water coffer.
It transforms these boats as the propwash is so significant, they're quite a handful without one.

Was hoping 50mm of box side left on would be enough.
This should give the sidepower unit access, maxpower is smaller, but is it straightforward to attach the side power tunnel as the maxpower one is too big.
Does there need to be much modification to suit the sidepower double joystick to maxpower bow thruster?
The steering box seems to protect from bilge water may be some limber holes that need sealing?

 

[Elessar]

Was hoping 50mm of box side left on would be enough.
This should give the sidepower unit access, maxpower is smaller, but is it straightforward to attach the side power tunnel as the maxpower one is too big.
Does there need to be much modification to suit the sidepower double joystick to maxpower bow thruster?
The steering box seems to protect from bilge water may be some limber holes that need sealing?

No it is not straightforward to put a max power thruster into a sidepower tunnel but I have done it. Both the tunnel and the thruster need to be ground away. It is a big bill if you get it wrong. As far as I know max power went bust anyway what do they fit as a bowthruster on the new Antares?

Neither is it straightforward to get the original max power bow thruster to use the sidepower double joystick. Mike at osmotech knows how and I think there's an interface box he will sell you.

Finally the box absolutely does not protect the thruster from bilge water. The hull has an inner liner and the water gets between that and the actual hull. And that space is not separated at all from the space where the thruster motor sits.

Basically nothing about this install is straightforward. But it is worth the effort.

 

[Anders_P42]

Thanks Anders,

Will look forward to the pics!

I always have the anchor locker lid open when I am using the anchor as you need to go to the front anyway to release the safety.
I have a windlass switch, on the flybridge only, but rarely use it, Do you have a switch on both helms? Somebody said to me once that the front of the anchor locker door could be trimmed to give better operation with the door down (as it just misses out), but I like to see what is happening in there.

I had my emergency tiller hot dipped galvanised, as the original "gold " finish was not holding up well to the marine environment, as a small bit of salt water was getting in there when I stored the dingy - Looks good.

Not sure why the pic is not appearing, had it working OK before



http://i1016.photobucket.com/albums/af284/Fourwinns205/IMG_11691_zpsd469e37d.jpg

I've got some own boat tuition next weekend, anchoring, picking up mooring buoy are on the list. I've got the Quick chain counter on the lower helm, which also controls windlass. I was going to have a thin piece of stainless made to line the inside of the recess, but may be unnecessary.

45m 8mm chain just fits in

Anchor swivel setup (copied vyv_cox setup) and the stainless plate you recommended.

Here's the stern thruster install

And found where Osmotech installed the galvanic isolator while I was crawling in lazarette

Lower helm, VHF, Victron inverter control panel and the Echomax radar reflector control box.

I had them fit 12V socket to run cool box, for the two weeks of summer we get, lol

 

[AllanG]

Hi Anders,

Very interesting thread....thanks for this!

I notice that most of the new Beneteau's have their aft cleats mounted inside the cockpit, with the mooring lines running through a s/s fairlead in a wooden coaming, and I was wondering if there was any protection on the wood to stop the lines chafing the edge?

Cheers, Allan

 

[Sydneysider]

I've got some own boat tuition next weekend, anchoring, picking up mooring buoy are on the list. I've got the Quick chain counter on the lower helm, which also controls windlass. I was going to have a thin piece of stainless made to line the inside of the recess, but may be unnecessary.

45m 8mm chain just fits in

Anchor swivel setup (copied vyv_cox setup) and the stainless plate you recommended.

Here's the stern thruster install

And found where Osmotech installed the galvanic isolator while I was crawling in lazarette

Lower helm, VHF, Victron inverter control panel and the Echomax radar reflector control box.

I had them fit 12V socket to run cool box, for the two weeks of summer we get, lol

Hi Anders,

I think the main problem with the chain going in to the front of the anchor locker lid is the leading edge, I was going to grind it off somehow to give a little more room - It seems to hit only when the shaft of the anchor rises over the rear roller, Is your Rockna a 15kg?
All chain rode looks good
My SS in the recess was made to go up the sides of the recess as well, as I found when retrieving, the chain would shake violently from side to side sometimes, it actually hit the side and made minor damage.
Thanks for the stern thruster pic, they have cut quite a bit out of the box, explains it well, What are the red, black, yellow ,white wires running to near the transom? Is it the stern thruster battery?
I had paint coming off my rudder a while back and had a galvanic isolator installed, seems to have worked, I was in the water Tuesday and all the paint is still there, will find out for shore in September, when the boat is lifted. Yours is a fancy job ,mine has no gauge.
Regards Scott

 

[Anders_P42]

Hi Anders,

I think the main problem with the chain going in to the front of the anchor locker lid is the leading edge, I was going to grind it off somehow to give a little more room - It seems to hit only when the shaft of the anchor rises over the rear roller, Is your Rockna a 15kg?
All chain rode looks good
My SS in the recess was made to go up the sides of the recess as well, as I found when retrieving, the chain would shake violently from side to side sometimes, it actually hit the side and made minor damage.
Thanks for the stern thruster pic, they have cut quite a bit out of the box, explains it well, What are the red, black, yellow ,white wires running to near the transom? Is it the stern thruster battery?
I had paint coming off my rudder a while back and had a galvanic isolator installed, seems to have worked, I was in the water Tuesday and all the paint is still there, will find out for shore in September, when the boat is lifted. Yours is a fancy job ,mine has no gauge.
Regards Scott

Hi Scott,

Sorry I forgot to reply to this. Yes it's the leading edge that catches with lid closed. I did some anchoring at the weekend with dad up front locker open when lowering / raising anchor. The swivel / shackle set up seems to self-right the anchor every time, dad said he saw anchor rotate around. No jams on the all chain rode yet, most I've let out is 25m to anchor in 6m water. Early days yet though, only anchored three times. Rocna anchor has worked a treat, set first time all three times.

I think the red black yellow wires are for the volvo blade trim tabs. I decided against antifouling rudder, I noticed they connect a couple of earths to rudder during factory visit. I didn't want to effect their earthing point by lashing paint over it.

You asked how much fuel engine burns around 3000 rpm, here's the result with clean bum. Speed on the i70 is through water, on E95 SOG (I think).

 

[rwoofer]

Hi Anders,

Very interesting thread....thanks for this!

I notice that most of the new Beneteau's have their aft cleats mounted inside the cockpit, with the mooring lines running through a s/s fairlead in a wooden coaming, and I was wondering if there was any protection on the wood to stop the lines chafing the edge?

Cheers, Allan

That is the thought that occurred to me with the Bene setup. I can't imagine how mooring lines would not scuff the wood.