First trip to Devon & Cornwall

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lrlloyd

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Hello!

We've just bought a new boat (currently keeping it in the solent) & are planning our first trip west to Devon and Cornwall for around 2 weeks.

I'd love to hear recommendations of places to stay - in particular scenic locations on mooring buoys?

Thanks!
Lauren
 
2 weeks can turn out to be a bit of a rush, if you try to do too much.
One of our early trips, we had a lot of strong Easterlies which made getting home harder work than we imagined. Other years the weather has been kinder.
I'd suggest getting Mark Fishwick's book West Country Cruising and just going for it.
Personally I think it's all worth a visit, with the possible exception of Torquay.
Make your plans according to tides, weather, and whether you want long or short days sailing.
We tend to not plan too much in advance, if the wind's amenable we go further in a day.
Also check out any events such as Fowey Classic Regatta, these are lovely to watch but can mean it's hard to find a mooring.
 
I'm unusual in that (not sure why) but I actually like Weymouth, though it's not remotely scenic and rather ties you to going close inshore off Portland. From Weymouth then Dartmouth, Salcombe, Yealm, Plymouth, Fowey, Falmouth and Helford. That's about it for most people in 2 weeks. Have done 2 weeks from the Solent with 2 very small kids aboard and never got further than Salcombe.

Of this lot my favourites are Dartmouth, Fowey, Falmouth area. But I quite like to get ashore for an evening meal. Prettiest probably Yealm and Helford, and some upriver bits from Plymouth. Ignore Brixham, Torquay and the Exe and Teign, and I have bad memories of Lyme Regis.
 
Don't forget (miss out?) Polperro, between Plymouth and Fowey. Trot Mooring buoys just outside the harbour, and OK if you have a bit of North in the breeze. You'll need long lines and a dinghy row ashore, where the pub is right on the doorstep. £10 a night and a very attractive village to explore.
 
jwilson said:
I'm unusual in that (not sure why) but I actually like Weymouth, though it's not remotely scenic and rather ties you to going close inshore off Portland. From Weymouth then Dartmouth, Salcombe, Yealm, Plymouth, Fowey, Falmouth and Helford. That's about it for most people in 2 weeks. Have done 2 weeks from the Solent with 2 very small kids aboard and never got further than Salcombe.

Of this lot my favourites are Dartmouth, Fowey, Falmouth area. But I quite like to get ashore for an evening meal. Prettiest probably Yealm and Helford, and some upriver bits from Plymouth. Ignore Brixham, Torquay and the Exe and Teign, and I have bad memories of Lyme Regis.
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I agree with most of that, including liking Weymouth.
However we often go straightpast, we find a casual departure, a night on the buoys outside Yarmouth followed by catching the early tide and banging on to Dartmouth is our usual plan. Which makes Brixham an option for a late arrival if the wind dies. I've always liked the club there.
Lyme Regis, I had a memorable night (rough) on a buoy outside when the wind went against the forecast. So we left just before dawn and saw the coast in spectacular morning light, enjoyed a nice late breakfast ashore in Weymouth. I've only been back to race dinghies, but it's actually a good memory.
 
I like Weymouth too, and it makes Lyme bay into a day trip. It is a shame that Flood's restaurant is no longer there.

I would notionally set Falmouth as my target but with the expectation that it might not happen, though you would be unlucky not to reach Fowey. However, a week of foul weather is not that unusual so a few bolt-holes will come in useful. Dartmouth, Salcombe and the Yealm can all do this and I believe the Tamar is another though I only know it by road.

Fowey is sadly popular but can still be delightful, even glorious, and a bus trip to the Eden Project makes a good day out, even better if you have a senility pass. In the same vein, Heligan gardens are easy to reach too. Dartmouth is very grand and the entrance is always memorable for the right reasons, with castles and gardens to visit as well as Agatha Christie's house up the river. Mid-stream pontoons or anchoring are possible if you are allergic to shores. Salcombe is a madhouse but can also be great fun too, especially if there is a regatta going on. The West Country is a great place for going quickly and returning slowly.
 
lrlloyd said:
...

I'd love to hear recommendations of places to stay - in particular scenic locations on mooring buoys?

Thanks!
Lauren
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Hi,

If you get that far, there are three not to miss

For me, perfection is the upper Fal, 10 o'clock, light fading, little things on sticks, bottle of red. With water so flat you think you are aground, no roads complete silence. You can't miss Fowey either and the swinging moorings up the river on Wisemans Reach might suit you. There is also nothing like the Yealm but do push on up past the pool, a lot of people miss it and end up on a busy pontoon with a pile of other yachties, talking about investments. Don't be afraid of picking up a regular mooring the Harbourmaster will sort you out and he will expect it.

As the others say, there are lots of other grand places, Cawsand Bay, The Helford, St Mawes, St Austell Bay, Salcombe, Dartmouth, can't go wrong.
 
Lots of wonderful places, dragons and massive sea serpents.

You don't say what type of boat you have, can you take the ground is what I am really asking. Many good places mentioned above. Although the boat is now in Plymouth I love the Exe, the pilot book paints a fearsome picture, but time it well and make sure your depth sounder is working and it is a doddle.
 
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Thanks so much for all the suggestions. We’re only a Hallberg Rassy 36 with a draft of 1.7. Taking the ground would be a disaster so I’ll definitely read up on all the mentioned places.
Can’t wait to get down west - now just to pray for good weather!
 
The River Yealm is lovely - nowhere near as tricky as some pilot books suggest, very simple - I might very well go there and bypass Plymouth which is now expensive and takes a lot of time to get around.

Fowey is the jewel, though Falmouth is fantastic - if you get there don't miss the Chain Locker pub and probably the museum -on the eastern side Percuil has magical scenery.

Now the important bit, I think.

I once set off from Dartmouth on the return trip ( Brixham would be better to shorten the trip across Lyme Bay ), perfect forecast so I committed us to the inshore passage at Portland - I'd done it several times heading west.

However the wind came up much stronger than forecast and we had the fright of our lives, it remains my worst sailing experience decades later - so I strongly recommend going at least 5 miles off Portland Bill on the return trip, then you can slant in to anchor in Studland Bay or go into Poole - South Deep anchorage just inside the entrance to port is wonderful.

If you are confident re crew strength and autopilot I'd suggest going outside Portland Race on the outward leg as well, setting off from Studland.

Watch out for the gunnery range off Lulworth - firing times are broadcast in the morning on local BBC radio

or try 01929 404819 which should get the info.

A final tip, 2 weeks is not long, best to enjoy wherever you get rather than let it turn into an endurance trial slogging around barely seeing places.
 
lrlloyd said:
Thanks so much for all the suggestions. We’re only a Hallberg Rassy 36 with a draft of 1.7. Taking the ground would be a disaster so I’ll definitely read up on all the mentioned places.
Can’t wait to get down west - now just to pray for good weather!
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You've just missed the HR association cruise that has just dispersed after meeting in the Yealm. I'm not sure what sailing they got but judging by their Facebook entries the pontoon canapés looked good.
 
A couple more points -

the regattas at Dartmouth, Fowey and Falmouth are well worth seeing with terrific atmosphere, even if they make finding a space or berth a bit harder.

If you should get to Falmouth and have the time ( I think sailing to the Helford is pushing it in two weeks ) a bus ride to the Seal Sanctuary at Gweek is well worthwhile, guaranteed to melt the stoniest heart.

Not just Seals, Otters, all sorts - who look you in the eye ' where's my fish then ? ' - feeding time for the pups is popular.

http://www.sealsanctuary.co.uk/introg.html
 
Seajet has covered most of what I would say, it’s been a few years since I sailed on the South Coast, but used to sail out of Mudeford so similar to your trip.
Fowey is really lovely and Falmouth is certainly worth visiting.
The inner Prtland Bill channel is worth using as long as the weather is good and you time t right, but like Seajet I had one of my worst sailing experiences using it, having said that all the warnings say don’t try it in anything stronger than a force 4,
top end of a 5 is not fun.
We often used Lulworth as a waiting point for getting the Portland inner passage right, but a lot of people think it’s a rather uncomfortable mooring.
Lyme is OK if you can take the ground ad it dries although theres not much space.
Don’t make the mistake of trying to visit too many places in a two week trip and allow for the weather, we once had to wait 4 days before we could get across Lyme Bay on our way back to Mudeford.
Have a really great trip.
 
If you like to spend a little time in one place i would very strongly recommend one of the regatta weeks. Assuming they are doing it this year (I havent checked yet) Salcombe is very special, and a great atmosphere. Dont confuse the sailign week with the event week as they are different - the event week is the one you want. Salcome is just super lovely but it is worth being aware that there realy isnt anywhere with walk ashore moorings, but the water taxi service is great or of course your own tender. Dartmouth does have plenty of walk ashore options. The town probably has a little more to offer, but it si a different atmosphere. I like Weymouth as well as someone else commented, but for me, for a day or twos stop at the most. Its well worth a night in Lulworth if the weather is kind, and you can always bail to Dartmouth if it gets a bit lively. As another said Fowey is a gem. There is so much that could be said about all these. Personally, I would split my time between Fowey and Salcombe, and you will easily get lost in both places for five days, with a couple fo days for stops on the way - but of course if you want to sail more, there are other options.
 
lw395 said:
2 weeks can turn out to be a bit of a rush, if you try to do too much.
[...]
Personally I think it's all worth a visit, with the possible exception of Torquay.
Make your plans according to tides, weather, and whether you want long or short days sailing.
We tend to not plan too much in advance, if the wind's amenable we go further in a day.
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With the exception of the torquay thing (I *liked* torquay, even if I only went there because (a) I'd never been there and (b) the wind was a bit less dead astern than it would have been from dartmouth)....+1!

There are so many permutations of where to stop there and back depending on where the wind is I never really start to plan until a few days out and never finalise anything until the night before. If this is your first trip west I would take it easy, stay a couple of days in places to explore and not aim for anything past fowey: there is loads to explore between the solent and there.

I can't think of anywhere that's been mentioned that isn't worth trying once. bobc lists the obvious "buoy" places in post #4. Buoys get rafted in summer which is why I tend to prefer the hook where possible. Space for anchoring by the anchor stone up the dart is limited. Plenty of room up by the salt stone in salcombe but it's a bit of a row to town from there. I love salcombe without going ashore but if you haven't been into town it's definitely worth going once.

Enjoy. A couple of weeks to the west country and back with fair weather is sublime.
 
lrlloyd said:
Hello!

We've just bought a new boat (currently keeping it in the solent) & are planning our first trip west to Devon and Cornwall for around 2 weeks.

I'd love to hear recommendations of places to stay - in particular scenic locations on mooring buoys?

Thanks!
Lauren
Click to expand...

Definately head to Turnaware up the Fal. A stunning little sheltered spot
 
Go away we're full!!!

In all seriousness - In order of preference I would visit:-
Salcombe - although can get busy.
Yealm - avoid the mid river pontoon, it gets rammed. Decent showers and loos by the harbour master's office (not expensive)
Dartmouth - lovely, but can be busy. Watch out for visiting cruise liners swiping your yacht(!)
Fowey - personally I prefer Polruan rather than Fowey itself.
Plymouth - personally I'd avoid the Marinas unless you want a shower, but anchor in Cawsand, Barnpool or head up the Lynher for a night on the hook at Dandy Hole (you get to cruise by the dockyard and look at some of our remaining grey funnel line).

Obviously that list is in preference rather than geographical order.

I personally wouldn't bother with Brixham, although a friend of mine really likes it there and I did have a hilarious 24 hours there once when the trawler races were on. Torquay is a bit of a dump to be honest, although if you've never been before it might be worth popping in.

There are lots of smaller places too, Looe if you can take the ground (not relevant for you obviously), Polperro, Mevagissey, The Erme is worth a look for anyone who can take the ground.
 
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