First time anti fouling

[Edwardo]

I plan to do myown antifouling for the first time this year. Last treated with Blakes (self-polishing) Tiger, the surface is free of fouling and theres no flaking ie a pretty good surface. Do I need to abrade and, if so, does it need to be vigorous or is a light going-over adequate? Does it need to be wet or dry sanding?

Blakes Tiger says on the tin that one coat will do for a season. Any reason I should doubt this?

Any tips would be most appreciated!

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[Aeolus_IV]

Me too

A timely post - I'm in exactly the same position, off to search archives...

Jeff

.. back again, found this ...

Click <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.ybw.com/cgi-bin/forums/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=mby&Number=276248&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post276248> Here</A><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Aeolus_IV on 07/03/2003 15:08 (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[vyv_cox]

I would avoid sanding altogether. If the hull is clean and dry there's no need - the solvents in antifouling are strong and there will be sufficient reaction with the existing coat to ensure good bonding. If there is any suggestion that the hull might be a little greasy or something like, a quick rub down with some solvent on a rag, suggest acetone or cellulose thinners, will be all the preparation you will need.

I respectfully suggest that antifouling has now reached the stage that to satisfy environmental requirements it has had almost every aggressive chemical and biocide removed from it. I doubt if there is an antifouling on earth that will last a season in coastal seawater.

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[schilde]

I'm in the middle of scraping off five coats of antifouling and not enjoying it as much as I should. Last time I re-coated it, it cracked, maybe because the tide came in before it was quite dry and the solvents probably went through the layers instead of drying. The annoying thing is that the surface wasn't bad and I wasn't sure whether to bother - I wish I hadn't.

I have come to the conclusion that we put on much more than we need.

If your a/f is in a good condition as you suggest, why not leave it alone until next year? The worst thing that can happen is you are going to get a bit of weed etc on the hull. As you are probably not racing would it matter so much? It would be worth it to know you can get away with doing it every second year. And the time when it gets so thick it cracks and you have to scrape it off will be put off for longer.

Steve

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[trevor]

Dont sand it, the dust from antifouling is DANGEROUS, if the existing coating is in reasonable condition just paint new AF over it. I always use 2 coats (I know it means more backache) but this lasts about 10-12 months.

If the existing AF is cracked and flaking I would recommend employing one of the specialist sand blasting people and then start again with one coat AF primer and 2 coats AF.

Trevor

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[Viking]

Re: Me too - too

Had the boat out for a hull inspection but no time to antifoul at the time. Having done antifouling before both direct on old and strapping back. I'll going to go over the existing.
I plan to power hose off, then check, lightly sand with wet & dry paper (wet) then apply two coats with a third to leading edges - bow, fin, water line (say 150mm band) and the whole rudder. I sometimes use a harder antifouling in these area.
I use the small roller with a long handle (used behind radiators) gets in the carves better.
Mix antifouling well. Try and use a power mixer (power drill) you will find that as you pour from tin to tray and the tin stands, that it starts to thicken. I keep a tin of thinners. but I use it very sparingly.

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[tynesman]

Re: Anti fouling

My boat is used both on river and offshore all the year round and I find my antifoul lasts for two years.
When the boat is lifted out power wash for at least an hour removing all flake paint and grim this saves hours of sanding.
When dry power sand remaining flake paint off (using a mask and goggles)
Allow hull to dry.
One coat International Prima- Con allow to dry min two weeks
One coat anti-foul allow to dry min two weeks
Any aluminium parts (Z drives) as above excluding anti-foul but including prima-con plus one coat International Tri-lux (special paint for aluminium)
No I do not work for International paints.just learnt from others and experiance.

Happy painting and good sailing

Tynesman

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