First of many questions re new boat - Teak decks

"I very lightly scrub mine once a year, with nothing more than soap powder (daz or similar)"

The "similar" can be dishwasher powder. Mix it in luke warm water to a slippery consistency. Drip over the area to be cleaned and leave for about 5 mins. Then a gentle clean with a very light close weave scrubber across the grain with liberal amounts of the mixture and then wash off - fantastic.
 
Gludy some production boats use thin teak over plywood, all glued to the GRP. But decent production boats (certainly including Fairline, Ferretti, Princess, and I suspect many others) now use thinish teak (5 or 6mm) but is is solid teak, no plywood backing. It is glued down with sikaflex and should be done with no screws, so there is no piercing of the GRP underneath. This is a good product, and imho easy to keep looking nice straw-brown and loads nicer than GRP. But that is all down to personal preference
 
Yes I know it is real teak and only as you say about 5/6mm thick and I agree its glued down. My Fairline has a ply backing to it though. Maybe later boats don't.

In any event teak of about half a centimetre thickness if left exposed to the weather such as on a bathing platform or flybridge does only last about 7 years or so. Its simply too thin to last any longer.

My cockpit teak looks as new - but that is not left exposed to the weather.

I agree teak looks far better than GRP but as you say, its personal preference.
 
No foootwear allowed -bare feet only. Not easy to insist on this in cooler uk tho wasy in the med. Buy a shoe basket that you can stash on board and on the quayside, praps.

Wash teak frequently as you like with water and diswasher powder and praps twice season max with 2-part teak cleaner. Use v low pressure water only never ever jet wash.

NO treatment for teak - natural only as magnum says

Saltwater washable, doesnt stain. NB - use foam pad to wash across the grain, not a brush.


NB2: best way to look after the teak is to get a cover made for the teak - a canvas floor you clip down whilst not on the boat. It will need specially making. The wear, dirt and ridginess is a direct result of water crashing down from a mile up in the sky andbringing all the cack with it, and then getting blasted/brushed as well. A cover can multiply the life of your teak by five to ten if outside - or if inside er waste of time - but compare inside cockpit of most boats (nice) with their swim platform (quite wrecked) - the difference is that one is covered from rain, the other is open to everything.

NB3 No teak up the side decks if you can possibly spec it - white plastic sidewalks are much cooler underfoot.
 
The Burgess wood sealer gives a light brown finish and is of a very watery consistency that soaks in well on the first coat. Subsequent coats lay on the surface and need brushing in well. It's impervious to all the usual deck type stains although if you leave a greasy prop' shaft coupling laying on it for a couple of weeks, it leaves a stain that needs the sealer cleaning off and recoating. If you don't leave bits of boat mechanics on it, it lasts well.
 
Many thanks to all for the fantasic and helpful responses, I will print this thread off and keep it on board for reference.

Regards

Martyn
 
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