First ever diesel engine, useful do'd and don'ts?

[Bitter-End]

Recently bought a 23" yanmar fishing boat with a Yanmar diesel. (4jh3-htzy, 92HP, 1400 hours)

The engine looks in mint condition, starts straight away, zero smoke or anything (and has been well maintained by the yanmar dealer) And I'd like to keep it that way.

Any tips and tricks to keep in mind to keep it in mint condition?
I'm aware of the most obvious golden rules, but would love to hear what you guys can share.

 

[oldgit]

Regular oil and filter changes.
Regular fuel filter changes. It sips fuel.
Change that impeller.
Change All those engine pencil anodes as and when.

None of the above needs to come out of anything with "Yanmar" on the box or container.
Search around and your local Motor Factor or Ebay will provide everthing you need.

Also available online the most detailed and comprehensive workshop manual ever.
Warning its about 300 + pages long and mostly features how to fix the engine with the tools likely to be found in Timbuktu or possibly Essex.
And certainly no waiting for a manufacturor (No Names )to get round to building a replacement PCB when yours starts fizzing because you used it near water and it conks out .

 

[westernman]

Wot he said ^^

Clean fuel (make sure you don't get diesel bug or fuel with water in it or otherwise dirty fuel and change the fuel filter often enough)
Clean oil (i.e. change it and the filter often enough - use good old mineral oil, no fancy stuff with weird detergents in it)
Clean air (change the air filter when it gets dirty)
Enough cooling water (change the impeller every three years or so and change the antifreeze. Get the right kind of antifreeze - I think Japanese motors need something different from the rest of the world).

The heat exchanger will be the first thing to need replacing. They seem to rust through after about 15-20 years. And are expensive.
Changing the antifreeze (for its corrosion inhibitors rather than it antifreeze properties) on a a regular basis might help delay this.

 

[Freebee]

don't run out of diesel!

 

[aerobat]

When the block is cold as ice , rev it no more than 4000 to keep it nice .

Seriously : give it a good warm up perdiod before forcing it

 

[Bitter-End]

Lots of suggestions, thank you.

The biggest revelation are the anodes,

Also available online the most detailed and comprehensive workshop manual ever.
Warning its about 300 + pages long and mostly features how to fix the engine with the tools likely to be found in Timbuktu or possibly Essex.

Would that be the official manual, or a third party manual?

I've downloaded the yanmar manuals, operation and service manual, but they're nowhere near that size.
Also, had to download the 4jh3-HTE manual. The boat came with a manual for my version, but it's in Japanese, I have imported the boat from Japan, and this engine is Japanese market only. The - HTE version is an export version, and weirdly, comes with a a few more horses. No idea what the difference is. Same base, Displacement, revs, turbo and intercooler. Different cylinder head possibly?

Anyway, due to major delays by the shipping company, I received the boat 1 day before I had to go abroad for 3 months so I obviously didn't have the time to have the engine checked thoroughly, and my usual yard doesn't do diesels, nor does any yard nearby, so I'll have to do most of it by myself before driving it 20 nM to a yard for a thorough checkup.

Planned for when I get back is to change the oil, filters, anodes, coolant and FW pump impeller.
Will order spare belts and outdrive bellows, just in case.
Luckily, this is an old fashioned direct injection diesel, no fancy electronics that may go haywire.

Fuel wise, I have little choice in this regard. Either I get my fuel from the fuel barges at 6.5 Hkd, or at the pump at 25 hkd. I think it's fine, but if not, I'd be looking into installing an extra racor.

When the block is cold as ice , rev it no more than 4000 to keep it nice .

Seriously : give it a good warm up perdiod before forcing it

And giving the engine some time to cool down before stopping it.

But since I live in Hong Kong, the engine will never be truly cold.

Last but not least, I'm a bit concerned about the intercooler and heat exchanger. Should I flush it with freshwater before I let it sit for longer periods?
The waters where it's moored are extremely heavy fouling, should I be concerned for marine growth in the cooling system?

The boat has always sat in dry storage. I don't know if they drained the cooling system when they stored it ashore. With the overboard valve open, would gravity empty the cooling water system, to be refilled when launched? Or would the salt water just sit in the heat exchanger?

 

[oldgit]

Somewhere out there is a free downloadable service and repair manual PDF with detailed exploded diagrams and a comprehensive parts manual PDF which covers the 4 cylinder engines.
Am aware that there is a less comprehensive operators manual.


file:///C:/Users/admin/Downloads/YANMAR-WORKSHOP-MANUAL-4LHA.pdf

Think you would be better off leaving the cooling system full complete with its corrosion inhibitor, rather than draining it out.

 

[Bitter-End]

Well, I doubt it's available for my engine. It's a Japanese market only engine,and googling it yields zero results.

I'll just have to make do with the regular operator and service manual... In Japanese.

 

[westernman]

Parts for a 4jh3-htzy1 here:-

Yanmar Shop - 4JH3-HTZY1

It won't be completely different to a 4jh3-hte.

 

[oldgit]

French Motors.
If their "Yanmar" prices scare the "bejesus out of you" try this lot in the Isle of Man and unlike French they usually have stock and superfast dispatch plus somebody who will actually talk to you while looking at their parts file.
Yanmar Diesel Engines | Bottom Line | Isle of Man
They are on ebay.
Urgently needed a starter relay, French wanted nearly £200.
Bottom Line had one in stock at 25% less inc the P&P.
Received and installed 24 hours later.

Needed a very basic simple fuel pump stud.
French had not got any , their website stated they had stock.
Ordered on line ,then had to wait while they ordered more from Japan.

 

[Bitter-End]

I think I'm good for parts. Whatever the local dealer won't have, is readily available cheaply on ebay or even on aliexpress, if I'm feeling adventurous...

The good thing is that 90% of the parts are the same as the entire 4JH series, maybe more.

Also, I don't think parts are that expensive in general. What I've read so far is that volvo penta generally is the most expensive.

Anyway, let's hope I won't need them. Like I said, the engine looks and feels like new, and so does the outdrive, although one of the hydraulic hoses is leaking at the thread. But yeah, 170 pounds for a new one. (but yanmar outdrives lift out of the water almost completely and seem to last forever, I've only seen a single used boat ad that had the outdrive replaced)

 

[oldgit]

Also, I don't think parts are that expensive in general.

Just a matter of time.
Yanmar starter relay £200.00 + with very nice cardboard box
Chinese knock off. £20.00 inna Plastic bag.
Also just buy the pencil anodes alone, easy to fit to your existing brass caps.

 

[sfellows]

As has already been said, change oil and filters regularly. But if you haven't got one yet, get a Racor Fuel filter (preferably 2 in series so you can switch over if there's a problem with water in one). You'll then be able to see if there is any water in the fuel tank as the bowl is transparent. Also, use a pump to access the bottom of the fuel tank every year to remove any water that may accumulate there.

 

[westernman]

Make sure the spring on the control panel thingy you put your key in to turn to start the engine is strong enough to spring the key back to disengage the starter motor once the engine starts.

The spring on mine got weak and I had a bunch of other keys on the key ring and it got stuck with the starter motor engaged. As soon as the engine was up to speed the starter motor got very hot and burst into flames.

I sailed into a marina with no engine and parked along side a very expensive super yacht without scratching anything. But I had some laundry to do after that.....

 

[Bitter-End]

Already mentioned installing a 2nd racor, for peace of mind if nothing else.
And I've seen how dirty diesel can be and how quickly it can clog up filters and leave one drifting.

Make sure the spring on the control panel thingy you put your key in to turn to start the engine is strong enough to spring the key back to disengage the starter motor once the engine starts.

Never heard of that happening. Can't you just, turn it back manually?
But yes, sucks if that happens.

 

[Bitter-End]

This is the boat the engine and drive are attached to by the way.

 

[westernman]

Already mentioned installing a 2nd racor, for peace of mind if nothing else.
And I've seen how dirty diesel can be and how quickly it can clog up filters and leave one drifting.


Never heard of that happening. Can't you just, turn it back manually?
But yes, sucks if that happens.

Yes of course. If you are aware that it is sticking.
I wasn't.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I think I'm good for parts. Whatever the local dealer won't have, is readily available cheaply on ebay or even on aliexpress, if I'm feeling adventurous...

The good thing is that 90% of the parts are the same as the entire 4JH series, maybe more.

Also, I don't think parts are that expensive in general. What I've read so far is that volvo penta generally is the most expensive.

Volvo parts are expensive, but in may cases Yanmar are more so.

Anyway, let's hope I won't need them. Like I said, the engine looks and feels like new, and so does the outdrive, although one of the hydraulic hoses is leaking at the thread. But yeah, 170 pounds for a new one. (but yanmar outdrives lift out of the water almost completely and seem to last forever, I've only seen a single used boat ad that had the outdrive replaced)

Nothing special about most (all?) hydraulic hoses, get it off and take it to your local hydraulic company.

 

[Bitter-End]

Nothing special about most (all?) hydraulic hoses, get it off and take it to your local hydraulic company.

Well, I'm hoping it's the thread or just not tightened properly. Didn't have time to investigate. Yard wouldn't even try, all they know is how to replace outboard parts, so all they did was top up the hydraulic fluid.

As for taking it to the local hydraulic company, it's never that easy in Hong Kong.
It's all hidden small local workshops that even Google doesn't know about, and are impossible to find unless you know some that knows someone... Speaking Cantonese is also a must.
But I'll ask around, might get lucky.
If not, well, I had a budget in mind for maintenance and replacements when I bought the boat. After all, I bought it unseen and unsurveyed off a website...