First boat buying advice needed

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phughes200

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I am looking to buy my first boat (18-22 feet). Due to budget constraints, I am looking at used boats that are 10-15 years old. These are fresh water lake boats with 150-200 hours on 190-300 hp. v-8, Mercruiser or Volvo I/o engines. My questions are:

1) What should I be looking for in terms of past maintanence?

2) Do I need to be concerned about the seals and gimble mechanism on boats of this age?

3) What is the life span of these type of engines? I would think that 300 hours would be considered young but I do see quite a few ads for younger boats with new engines (probally not winterized properly). I know it all depends on how it is taken care of. Lets assume the motor and gear oil was changed every season and that the boats were properly winterized.

4) Any tips on what to look for in a used boat of this size?

Thanks.

Philip
 
phughes200 said:
I am looking to buy my first boat (18-22 feet). Due to budget constraints, I am looking at used boats that are 10-15 years old. These are fresh water lake boats with 150-200 hours on 190-300 hp. v-8, Mercruiser or Volvo I/o engines. My questions are:

1) What should I be looking for in terms of past maintanence?

2) Do I need to be concerned about the seals and gimble mechanism on boats of this age?

3) What is the life span of these type of engines? I would think that 300 hours would be considered young but I do see quite a few ads for younger boats with new engines (probally not winterized properly). I know it all depends on how it is taken care of. Lets assume the motor and gear oil was changed every season and that the boats were properly winterized.

4) Any tips on what to look for in a used boat of this size?

Thanks.

Philip
Click to expand...

Hi Philip,

Welcome to the forum. I'm going to assume that you have found a boat and that she looks to be in good condition. Obviously I would recommend a full structural survey, this will throw up any problems will the hull etc, but it generally won't touch the engine and drive.

If I could give you one peice of advice above everything else, the engine and drive has the potential to cost you BIG money if its not been looked after....... So spend a little money getting somebody who knows about the engine and drive that your looking at to give it a right good going over. I took this route and manage to save myself many many times the cost of the engineer...... and then got all the problems sorted as a condition of the sale.

If an engine / drive has been maintained well it will last, if it has been used little and not maintained........ get ready to open your wallet!! Don't worry about higher hours too much, go on condition and maintainence.... and don't just take there word for it..... get it checked out!

Good luck,

Paul.
 
one of the first thing's engine wise i would look at are the exhaust(riser's)maniflods,if they are badly corroded costly to replace and can let water into the cylinders of the engine if in poor condition.listen for the usual knock's and bangs when the engine is running and up to temp.if boat is out of water quick check of gimble is try to push leg from side to side should'nt be any movement.
i run a winner wildcat (18ft boat)with a mercrusier 5.7l v8 and alpha 1 leg and they are pritty basic and easy to maintain.parts are cheap too even if you have to ship them over from the u.s.a. good look!! and hope you find the right boat.
 
Thanks for the advice. Is a stucture enginneer really needed to check out a 18 foot boat? I am looking to buy from a private seller. Getting a mechanic and engineer to go to someones house at a reasonable cost might prove difficult. I will check it out.

I always ask for maintanence records. It seems few people keep them or claim that the dealer has them. Myself, I keep detail records.
 
phughes200 said:
Thanks for the advice. Is a stucture enginneer really needed to check out a 18 foot boat? I am looking to buy from a private seller. Getting a mechanic and engineer to go to someones house at a reasonable cost might prove difficult. I will check it out.

I always ask for maintanence records. It seems few people keep them or claim that the dealer has them. Myself, I keep detail records.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum.

Personally I would not have a survey on an 18 foot boat, especially if it was out of the water and not anti-fouled. You would be able to access all areas and check for yourself that there are no major structural or hull problems.

As to the engine, there are people who are capable of servicing their own engines, often more thoroughly and frequently than a dealer. Go for a good trial run is possible and if you have time you may want to have an analysis of the oil done.
 
I completely understand where your coming from. I think it all comes down to how much you are buying the boat for. If it's a relatively small sum (if you could ever say that when it comes to buying a boat) then I guess a very good look over the boat, checking all bulkheads are still well attached to the hull, any signs of stress cracking etc... might be enough to keep you happy. BUT if this is the case the bulk of the boats value or rather possible future costs will be in the engine room or hanging off the back of it!!

I don't think it would be out of place if you was buying a used car to take along a mate who was a mechanic to give it a once over, and I still think this would be the case with a used boat. If it was you or I who was the seller, we would completely understand this position and as you have said we would be able to supply documents to back up this talk of a service history. Again a sea trial would be understandable, many a fault won't show up when the engine is run up on muffs, but put it under load at sea and it might be a different story.

As Moonraker has rightly pointed out there are areas to be looking at, but unless you know what you should be looking for when it comes sterndrives and the like (and I certainly didn't when I bought my first boat) there could be things
that all look ok, but could bite you on the arse further down the line.

I guess it all comes down to whether you want to buy a boat, enjoy your first season and get well and truely biten by the bug, or you are happy to roll up your sleeves and jump straight in but have your eyes open to the possible problems that you (hopefull won't) come across.

If you know the model of the boat / engine / stern drive that you are looking at, then I'm sure some more knowledgable forumites will beable to give you much more advice specific to your needs.

Just be careful Philip not to let your dream turn in to an expesive nigthmare, if you do your homework right, you'll enjoy your boat and that is what it's all about..........

Paul.
 
see if vessel has any history of maintenance especially within the last couple of years and if not;B.O.A.T=Break Out Another Thousand.
bear this in mind together with 1 mile /litre fuel economy at full throttle.
 
Phillip

Good luck with your future acquisition. As others have said, a non anti-fouled trailer boat (production GRP) with no obvious stress cracks, heavy stem (lower bow)/ keel damage, or bulkheads parting company, should be fine.

However I have seen/heard of cases where what appears to be a solid moulded, GRP, cockpit floor/sole, under glued down marine carpet, has later been discovered as fibre-glass covered plywood, with serious rot.
The rot problem is not always easy to detect initially, but is created by moisture ingress, held by soggy carpets, through screw holes.
Of course this depends entirely on the construction of the vessel, but it does pay to be aware.

I can see by the way you have constructed the questions in the OP you may have already read some previous threads on petrol powered boats ;-)
As others have said, the exhaust manifold/s and risor/s, or more specifically the joint between them, does need regular checking and maintenance in the older versions. A new gasket, and twice yearly re-tensioning goes a long way to help.

You may hear some quoting of high fuel consumption figures at wide open throttle, but I do wonder just how many lightweight, high speed engines producing nearly 300 horse-power, do so economically. Also bear in mind how many times, and for how long would you want to run an engine at WOT.

If you think about the similar arrangement with a motor vehicle.
A car buyer rejects a vehicle because it uses too much fuel at 150 MPH???

Enjoy your boat....
 
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If it was me I wouldn't bother with a survey, but unless the vendor has paperwork showing the boat has had new risers/manifolds and bellows in the past few years, you should budget to replace those when you get the boat. Whilst you are doing that you may as well replace the shift cable and have a look at the starter motor whilst the manifolds are off, as chances are it will also be due to be replaced.
 
what kind of boat are you looking at? sports cuddy,speed boat.sports fisher.
when you view the boat make sure you check that the engine is stone cold!before they start it,(if it is out of water they should have water muff's to run engine)then let it run up to temp to help show up any faults.poor cold starting-knock's and rattles etc.
as most have said try to get a run out in the boat if poss.check gears engage ok f/n/r
alpha legs can be a bit notchy just down to the type of leg. as i stated i run a 5.7l v8 tuned to well over 320hp! and i can water ski on the river trent allday for about £65 worth of fuel @32mph. if you can get someone who is mechanicaly minded to go with you and follow your gut fealing's you should'nt go far wrong.
 
I am still trying to find a reasonable price boat. Currently I am looking at a 1995 Sea Ray 200BR (20ft, 5.0LX Merc with Alpha 1, 205 hp) and a 1999 Four Winns 220 Horizon (22 ft, 5.0gi volvo, 250 hp). Hourrs on each are unknown but I would guess 200-300 hours in fresh water.
 
dont get hung up on the hrs its done.
go with the condition its in.
if its been used for water skiing check to see if the floor is soft in the boat(dripping wet suit drop a lot of water in the boat),again the floor isnt too difficult to repair usualy just ply and fiberglass.just something to watch out for.
take your time and look at more than one boat!
 
I am in NC. I am looking for a family boat to be used on a fresh water lake for tubing, water skiing and cruzing. I am more of a sailor so speed is not the top priority. The boat will be kept in a wet slip. At some point, I will probably get a boat lift. The lake doesn't get that rough but there are some good size (30ft+, I know small by this forum's standards) boats that generate a good size wake.
 
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Sorry, I should have remembered that this is an international board. As someone said NC=North Carolina in southeast USA.

Philip
 
Welcome to the forum. In your area there should be a stack of these types of boat, so you should get your pick. With regards to the hull survey,I have boaght 3 boats, and the survey's have never found anything that I haven't, and are so blandly written, as to be less than useless.

With regards the mechanicals, the engine condition should be quite easy to check. If going for a V8, then they are quite robust engines. It is the outdrive that is more difficult to check, as most of the serviceable parts are not very visible from the outside. So if thre is no evidence of a service history, either walk away, or negotiate a suitably low price. I would estimate $1000 for an Alfa service, with genuine parts. Your easiest check is the condition of the anodes, but this is not perfect as cost about $100 so these might be changed to cover other woes.

Good luck!
 
rafiki_ said:
I would estimate $1000 for an Alfa service, with genuine parts. Your easiest check is the condition of the anodes, but this is not perfect as cost about $100 so these might be changed to cover other woes.
Click to expand...
If the outdrive is so bad you need to spend $1000 on it, just buy a new one for $1400 and sell the old one on ebay:

http://www.sterndrive.cc/about.htm
 
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