Moodyjim
Well-Known Member
Yea but uncle is right ain't he!!!
Insurance would not pay if you did it yourself instead of an Uncle.
Insurance would not pay if you did it yourself instead of an Uncle.
Finding a small gas leak
- Thread starter Magic_Sailor
- Start date
Tisme
Well-Known Member
Not so, unless the insurance company had stipulated that any gas installation work had to be done by an Uncle they would not be able to use the fact that work had been DIY to avoid paying up.
It would be like refusing to pay up if your boat sank because you fitted sea cocks which failed rather than a boatyard.
It would be like refusing to pay up if your boat sank because you fitted sea cocks which failed rather than a boatyard.
VicS
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Do not mess around with LPG, its heavier than air & will collect at the lowest point & go BANG
[/ QUOTE ]
But if it just collects at the lowest point ie in the bilges provided no one goes down there with a lighted match there's no problem. You can pump it out with the (manual) bilge pump periodically and not worry about lighting a fag or the cooker etc.
or is there falacy in that argument that anyone who has paid attention in their Year 7 science lessons will be able to spot.
Do not mess around with LPG, its heavier than air & will collect at the lowest point & go BANG
[/ QUOTE ]
But if it just collects at the lowest point ie in the bilges provided no one goes down there with a lighted match there's no problem. You can pump it out with the (manual) bilge pump periodically and not worry about lighting a fag or the cooker etc.
or is there falacy in that argument that anyone who has paid attention in their Year 7 science lessons will be able to spot.
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
"or is there phallusy in that argument that anyone who has paid attention in their Year 7 science lessons will be able to spot. "
Liquid incompressible, gas compressible?
Liquid incompressible, gas compressible?
Sammo
Well-Known Member
Re: Getting rid of a small gas leak
Of course there is another way to get rid of a gas build up in the bilges, this simple method again uses equipment that you already have installed on your boat.
Just a couple of turns on your starter motor should do the trick, and quick as a flash all gas will be removed from your bilges and surrounding areas.
The up side of this method is it doesn’t leave any pockets of gas behind, you will have an instant result and it can be carried out from the helming position.
The down side is..err. You can only do it the once.
……….
Of course there is another way to get rid of a gas build up in the bilges, this simple method again uses equipment that you already have installed on your boat.
Just a couple of turns on your starter motor should do the trick, and quick as a flash all gas will be removed from your bilges and surrounding areas.
The up side of this method is it doesn’t leave any pockets of gas behind, you will have an instant result and it can be carried out from the helming position.
The down side is..err. You can only do it the once.
……….
VicS
Well-Known Member
Gases diffuse throughout the space available!
Allow a drop of bromine to evaporate in a covered gas jar. Remove the cover, invert another gas jar on top and by the end of a double lesson the bromine has pretty well diffused throughout both. And bromine vapour is nearly 3 times as dense as butane
Allow a drop of bromine to evaporate in a covered gas jar. Remove the cover, invert another gas jar on top and by the end of a double lesson the bromine has pretty well diffused throughout both. And bromine vapour is nearly 3 times as dense as butane
Sailfree
Well-Known Member
My understanding is
1. All joints with olives should be dry - there is a risk of shrinkage on any sealant.
2. Sealant or PTFE tape is acceptable on tapered tread connections
3. I once found a leak where the person had given it that extra turn and cracked the fitting.
4. Use correct size spanners - adjustables and grips may give you too much leaverage.
5. Check where pipework goes through bulkheads - should be set within a rubber grommet also possible to get cracks due to pipe work hardened/ stressed with vibration in free length yet restrained at bulheads/end fittings.
6. Ventilate sump using hand pump only.
1. All joints with olives should be dry - there is a risk of shrinkage on any sealant.
2. Sealant or PTFE tape is acceptable on tapered tread connections
3. I once found a leak where the person had given it that extra turn and cracked the fitting.
4. Use correct size spanners - adjustables and grips may give you too much leaverage.
5. Check where pipework goes through bulkheads - should be set within a rubber grommet also possible to get cracks due to pipe work hardened/ stressed with vibration in free length yet restrained at bulheads/end fittings.
6. Ventilate sump using hand pump only.
Stemar
Well-Known Member
IMHO, a lot of people get paranoid about gas. Yes, a concentration of gas in the bilges can rearrange your boat - and you, but it takes a significant amount to do it. If a person with a normal sense of smell can't smell gas near the source of ignition - cooker, switch, starter or other electric motor, alternator, etc., it ain't going to go bang.
The leak is there. It's a small one, so with well ventilated bilges, you'll probably never get enough gas to be dangerous if the gas is turned off when not in use. That's not to say it shouldn't be fixed, and soon. If it was my boat, I'd have no qualms about doing it myself.
Step one would be to tighten a LITTLE. I've had more problems from over-tightening compression joints than not tightening them enough. If that doesn't fix it, the right way is to remake the joint with a fresh fitting. That might mean replacing a length of pipe, 'cos even if you can get the olive off, the pipe's likely to be distorted.
Here's how to do it properly.
The leak is there. It's a small one, so with well ventilated bilges, you'll probably never get enough gas to be dangerous if the gas is turned off when not in use. That's not to say it shouldn't be fixed, and soon. If it was my boat, I'd have no qualms about doing it myself.
Step one would be to tighten a LITTLE. I've had more problems from over-tightening compression joints than not tightening them enough. If that doesn't fix it, the right way is to remake the joint with a fresh fitting. That might mean replacing a length of pipe, 'cos even if you can get the olive off, the pipe's likely to be distorted.
Here's how to do it properly.
BSSOffice
Well-Known Member
Re: Finding a small gas leak (small factual point)
[ QUOTE ]
As a registered gas fitter I hate to say this but the fact is at the moment there is no legislation to stop DIY on a gas installation on boats or caravans that are privately owned, used only for pleasure and do not need a boat safety certificate. Although it does make my blood run cold when I see advice dished out like p.t.f.e. on an olive, smell with your nose and use matches to test, unfortunately I can only recommend that any such work be done professionally.
However in the case of Industrial, domestic installations or caravans and boats that are hired out or used in a commercial environment as is yours any diy work is illegal.
On the insurance angle I can only give an opinion but I would think it`s pretty safe to say that following a gas related claim any loss adjuster would be looking to see who carried out the gas work.
……..
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree with you on the horrendous advice that can be seen in various places (frightening) and that insurance may just be one facet as heavy fines and jail sentences are the options for H&SAWA related offences.
However, while the BSS does not require CORGI people to do gas work on private leisure boats, we certainly promote that boaters use only competent people with professional expertise to undertake gas work.
Besides commercial craft, boats used primarily as a place of residence are in scope of GSIUR and so the HSE would want to see only CORGI (marine LPG) specialists carry out work on those - and that includes our examiners undertaking gas-tightness tests (unless bubble tester is already fitted as then they are not 'breaking into' the sytem).
Cheers
Rob
[ QUOTE ]
As a registered gas fitter I hate to say this but the fact is at the moment there is no legislation to stop DIY on a gas installation on boats or caravans that are privately owned, used only for pleasure and do not need a boat safety certificate. Although it does make my blood run cold when I see advice dished out like p.t.f.e. on an olive, smell with your nose and use matches to test, unfortunately I can only recommend that any such work be done professionally.
However in the case of Industrial, domestic installations or caravans and boats that are hired out or used in a commercial environment as is yours any diy work is illegal.
On the insurance angle I can only give an opinion but I would think it`s pretty safe to say that following a gas related claim any loss adjuster would be looking to see who carried out the gas work.
……..
[/ QUOTE ]
I agree with you on the horrendous advice that can be seen in various places (frightening) and that insurance may just be one facet as heavy fines and jail sentences are the options for H&SAWA related offences.
However, while the BSS does not require CORGI people to do gas work on private leisure boats, we certainly promote that boaters use only competent people with professional expertise to undertake gas work.
Besides commercial craft, boats used primarily as a place of residence are in scope of GSIUR and so the HSE would want to see only CORGI (marine LPG) specialists carry out work on those - and that includes our examiners undertaking gas-tightness tests (unless bubble tester is already fitted as then they are not 'breaking into' the sytem).
Cheers
Rob