Fibreglassing - a Dumb Question

If using a paddle roller it would be easier to clean than a finned one (will hold less resin, and easier to remove) so will use less cleaning chemical.
 
I find these plastic finned rollers much easier to clean.
Plastic Finned Roller - 100mm x 20mm (4" x ¾") - East Coast Fibreglass Supplies
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Leave aluminium finned roller submerged in a small jam-jar of acetone.
Polyester resin will go off in a week rubbery state,
take a wire brush to it, comes up like new.
 
We use the aluminium roller. You can unscrew the roller from the arm. Clean the arm with acetone on a rag. We use a test tube shaped container with a lid. A spice pot works well.
Half fill with acetone and drop the roller in. Fit lid and shake. Remove the roller, clean off and reassemble. We find if you don't remove the roller from the arm, next time you use it it won't roll properly.
 
I have a variety of GRP work to do, so I'm going to invest in a finned roller to set the cloth firmly in the resin. But how do I clean it afterwards? Silly amounts of acetone, or is there a better way?
I have one.
Don't remember any issues cleaning it.
Apparently it's ptfe which the resin does not stick to.

Never thought about it before. ....... perhaps you are over thinking things
 
I have one.
Don't remember any issues cleaning it.
Apparently it's ptfe which the resin does not stick to.

Never thought about it before. ....... perhaps you are over thinking things
We have used ours a lot. How to clean it was advised to us by a professional boat builder. It might not be an issue if you don't use it too much
 
.For small areas
Place the mat on some polythene. Pour on some resin. Place more polythene on top. Roller the resin out with flat roller pushing it to all areas of the mat & extruding all excess.. Remove the top polythene & flip over & apply mat to the surface then roll it on through the remaining layer of polythene. Use a flat roller & it will not actually get in touch with the resin & mat. There will be a minimum amount of resin in the mat but it will be fully saturated.
 
Top tip, Get a decent plastic bucket with a lid. The acetone will not evaporate away nearly as fast so your brushes & rollers will last far longer.
Make sure you change the acetone regularly before it starts to go thick & sticky, contaminated brushes are often a cause of poor laminates.
 
Since acetone has doubled in price, I no longer clean any epoxy/grp tools if I can possibly avoid it.

I therefore mainly use alu fin rollers…

I try to keep them clean as I go with recycled rags.
Once they’re too far gone, I give them plenty of heat from a MAPP blowtorch and hit them with a wire brush (I actually use the die grinder but handheld will do). Needless to say, only safe outdoors

Also works for filling/fairing knives, etc.

Unless you’re doing very minimal/occasional glasswork projects, it’s worth factoring in the cost of things like acetone.

At current rates, enough acetone to submerge a decent fin roller (say 250ml) could easily cost a quid!
 
I wish! It might be if I'm buying 50 litres, but in the penny numbers I need, it's a lot more than that.
It's the least-known hyper inflation indicator around...!

A roofing supply place around here ('Chestnut' on Merseyside) still have a gallon under £20. It does last enough to justify the initial outlay, even for smaller jobs (and it sounds like you may have a few!) - providing the First Mate doesn't forget to put the lid back on, as happened to me the other week!
 
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