Fibreglass instrument pod?

[Norman_E]

Having seen the prices of the commercial ones I am wondering how to make the new one I want. I am even considering making one as a marine plywood box, with a face of hard plastic (probably nylon sheet) to take the instruments. Keeping it varnished would be an annual chore, and I don't know if painting it with flowcoat would be successful, because that would be my easiest way to make one. Would the flowcoat remain intact if the wood shrank a bit?

The alternative idea is to use a plastic washing up bowl as a mould to make a GRP case, but I am not experienced in working with GRP.

 

[fisherman]

You can make a mould with melamine faced boards as per shelving at B*Q. GRP self help books should enable you to do a reasonable job. Or make it from ply and cover with GRP, finished with fine cloth or just polished down with a disc, paint with flocoat, quite easy to get a good finish.

 

[prv]

Basic non-structural fibreglassing is much easier than many people (myself formerly included) think. Especially if you ever built anything with papier-maché as a child - strips of wet newspaper and strips of resin-soaked cloth have quite a lot in common

Pete

 

[fisherman]

PS. If you clad ply with GRP, BS1455 WBP is better than marine ply.

 

[rob2]

Just musing... There was an article on just such a project in PBO. The box was made by producing a wooden plug from which a mould was produced, with battens across the flat surfaces to keep them flat. A mould is necessary as the gelcoat finish is wanted on the outside of the finished box. The plastic dash panel was sunk into the mouth of the box and screwed in from the sides, although you could attach a lip inside and screw to it from the front face.

You could make a wooden box and then wrap it in cloth and epoxy - polyester resins tend to delaminate from wood. I'm not sure how well flowcoat would adhere either to wood or epoxy, so I'd suggest finishing it with a two-pack paint if you want white or a UV filter varnish to protect the epoxy and still show the woodgrain.

Rob.

 

[matelot]

The alternative idea is to use a plastic washing up bowl as a mould to make a GRP case, but I am not experienced in working with GRP.

It is surprisingly easy and satisfying. Best read up about it first but the basics are:

1/ cote the bowl with mould release fluid. Painting job
2/ when dry coat with gel coat - another paint job
3/ when tacky, apply layers of glass matt and resin
4/ leave to cure, prise out the result and trim it.

got to go - swmbo.

 

[Vara]

Price of custom pods does seem to be very expensive.

Was looking at similar exercise and found some plant troughs (plastic) in local garden centre which would have been suitable as moulds.

In the end bought plotter to fit existing binnacle pod.

 

[fisherman]

- polyester resins tend to delaminate from wood.
Rob.

No need for that to happen, my jobs don't, including the GRP work on deck and round the base of the wheelhouse, 20 years and still sound. Basically to get a good bond score the ply, paint with accelerator then resin, then lay up as normal.

 

[prv]

Was looking at similar exercise and found some plant troughs (plastic) in local garden centre which would have been suitable as moulds.

I've heard of people using taxi roof signs . Blank ones, before the company name and phone number are added, and used directly rather than as a mould.

Pete

 

[macd]

With one-off jobs, especially if the shape isn't too intricate, it's often easiest to 'flat-pack' jobs such as these rather than make a mould. Knock up some grp sheet with gelcoat of the desired colour. Cut and tack the sheets together (glue guns are ideal), laminate over the lot internally for strength. Fill and fair the edges with gelcoat filler.

(Works with holding tanks, too, 'cept you don't need gelcoat.)

 

[PeteCooper]

If you want a custom made instrument pod at sensible money then contact Clyde_Wanderer of these forums.

 

[oldsaltoz]

Having built a few instrument panels for myself and clients over the years I find the best method is to foam sandwich construction.

Very light, very strong and very simple.

Rather than some ugly box that cause a bad injury, you can create nice curved and well rounded panel and build in cable ports and proper drainage and ventilation.

It,s fast and very satisfying, custom made to enhance her lines and can be as high or wide or deep as you and the instruments like.

You can even build in some of wiring for a cockpit light and a quick release mechanism for maintenance access and not a screw in sight.

With only one exposed edge overhanging the instruments to keep the sun and water off the face, with a well rounded edge so you don't get badly injured if you happen to strike.

And yes you can even stand on it without damaging anything.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[Avocet]

I vaguely remember an article (PBO I think) about someone who made an arched one to go over the cockpit hatch, using push-together square section drain pipe.

Other than that, as has been said, not TOO bad a job to make a "plug" the right shape out of MDF and bodyfiller, then take a mould off it. It IS possible to make one without a mould (chickenwire or carboard armature and lay the fibreglass up directly over it, then fair it with filler and sand it to death. Quite a lot of work though, and you end up with a pretty heavy item.

 

[nimbusgb]

Either build a plug out of marine ply and laminate over it or use airex or similar foam to build the plug ( much easier to work and to round corners etc.

My pod built around a ply plug has been out in the weather for 3 years now and is still in good nick.

 

[prv]

Has that compass been swung since you strapped so much ironmongery and electrickery all around it?

An impressive piece of fibreglassing though, never guess it's DIY.

Pete

 

[Mr Cassandra]

Either build a plug out of marine ply and laminate over it or use airex or similar foam to build the plug ( much easier to work and to round corners etc.

My pod built around a ply plug has been out in the weather for 3 years now and is still in good nick.

Very nice

 

[nimbusgb]

Has that compass been swung since you strapped so much ironmongery and electrickery all around it?
Pete

Surprisingly little difference between readings with it all turned off or on! even with the radar scanning. all the cables run vertically in a 40mm central 316 conduit which i think has gone a long way to keeping stray field to a minimum. the conduit does have about 30 cores in it iirc!

Oddly enough the raymarine electronic compass was far harder to get swung in its original mount position inside the aft cabin on the aft bulkhead!

 

[fisherman]

If you want to make a sandwich construction look at Nidaplast.

 

[prv]

Surprisingly little difference between readings with it all turned off or on!

Well, that's a good start - and encouraging because I'll soon have a boat with a similar (though less elaborate) binnacle pod. But do the readings (off or on) match up with the rest of the world?

Pete

 

[knuterikt]

Here is another way to make a model.

Carve out a blank of Styrofoam, apply fiberglass and epoxy. Then dissolve Styrofoam blank.

Found this technique described here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/the-lost-foam-method-of-composite-fabrication/
Never tried this myself..