Fiberglass & Lead in a Steel Keel

[nicholasbw]

The previous owner of my steel Bruce Roberts ketch had the best of intentions that went wrong. He filled the keel up with lead weight and elected to seal it all up (Solid) with fiberglass in an attempt to prohibit water, moisture from entering. Regrettably over time, the fiberglass cracked allowing water to enter. Is anyone aware of a fluid that could be poured in, heavier than water that would prohibit rust and perhaps seal up the cracks? If the cracks cannot be sealed up maybee something that would be friendly to the bilge pump in the event it makes I there.

 

[tugboat]

If you are certain that water has already got into the keel, I think your only option is to drain it out. Suggest a hole at the lowest point which can later be threaded and have a threaded plug sealed into it. You ideally need to dry out the moisture perhaps by forcing warm dry air into the keel and vent it off. Depending on the age of the boat an ultrasound survey of the keel may be advisable, but I would imagine that you have ample thickness of steel in that area. If you can dry it out, fill the space with oil to inhibit corrosion. Ability to dry it out depends a lot on whether the builder used lead ingots (with lots of space in between) or poured in melted lead. I'm thinking as I write - after draining off any water over a week or so, maybe fill with oil, water should sink to the bottom and can be drained off. Just leaves the problem of sealing the plug. AFAIK there isn't a liquid you can put in to displace the water upwards.

 

[Shantyman]

I think that the current best practice is to totally encapsulate the ballast in a steel hull by plating and welding over the ballast once it is in place.

IMO the best thing to do (If you can) after removing as much of the water as possible is to plate over the lot.
I believe moisture and oxygen are required to create rust so if you totally weld it up, further deterioration should cease once the existing water and oxygen is converted to rust.

As tugboat says, there is probably plenty of thickness in the keel plating.

Your drain holes could be welded up to make a secure job of it.

Regards,

Shantyman.

 

[30boat]

If you can't get rid of all the water, try injecting soluble oil,otherwise known as cutting fluid for metalworking .This mixes readily with water and will inhibit further rusting.It is however intended for fresh water ,I don't know how it would mix with salt water.Better experiment first.

 

[William_H]

If you can cope with damage to the paint on the keel it may be worthwhile after draining the water to heat the keel by blow torch to drive off the moisture then when it is warm pour the oil in hoping that the cooling will suck the oil into the air gaps around the lead.
good luck olewill

 

[nicholasbw]

Thanks everyone for your help.

Regards, Nicholas

 

[gjeffery]

Just an untested thought, that rust converters are sold as an aqueous solution, and so work when wet. It may be worth discussing the problem with the manufactures (eg Loctite) engineers, who give advice on industrial applications of their products.

 

[gjeffery]

And Waxoyl perhaps?

 

[eyehavit]

Just adding to the suggestions.
I doubt that you will ever remove all the water nor prevent it entering in the future.
A rust inhibitor may provide good value. Suggest you contact the radiator fluid specialist people in your area. You should have to absolve them from responsibility for your application before they open up. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I have heard of a brand (some years back) that was successfully tested against automobile radiators filled with seawater.