Few questions about Volvo 2002 and drivetrain

[eddystone]

Have a few queries which someone may be able to help with (trying to avoid multiple posts)

1. When I went down to the boat the other day I noticed a loose black cable in the vicinity of the alternator - looked as if it had broken off from somewhere - just bare wire strand, no end fitting - traced the other end to a rear engine mount which it shares with the green and yellow earthing wire to the hull anode - any ideas where this should be attached?

2. Should the gearbox oil be changed anually or just topped up? I took the filler cap off and found an inner plastic moulding with a hole in the middle - is this where the tube of the old extractor should go?

3. Do these anodes need replacing? - difficult to judge what is 50% - the shaft anode has only been in the water 8 months.

4. The rubber engine mounts have a date stamped on them - something 2011 - as they look fairly new I presume this is manufacture date not expiry date!

5.What is usual torque setting for the nut holding the propellor on?

6. I need to sand down the prop shaft to remove barnacles and provide a surface that anti-foul primer can stick to - what grade of wet and dry would you use to avoid damaging the self-healing properties of stainless?

 

[VicS]

1. Solid black if part of the engine wiring would be a negative connection. Exactly what will depend on its diameter and the engine variation. Some have an isolated negative and an earthing solenoid . ( usually only engines with a sail drive) Others do not have an isolated negative but have a connection between the alternator negative and the engine block

It may be the connection between the hull anode and the engine block if the hull anode is supposed to provide protection to the shaft and prop. One would expect it to be the same wiring as the anode bonding ( ie yellow/green ) if it were part of the cathodic protection system though

Refer to the wiring diagram in your owners manual

look for the remains of the broken wire or a termination on places within reach.

2. See the owners manual for info about gear box oil change. Every 400 hours or once per season ITYWF is the recommendation but to put it in perspective ... how often do you change the oil in your car gear box?

3. Hull anode has some life left I would think esp if only to provide back up to the shaft anode ... What is it bonded to ?? Shaft anode looks a bit beyond it ... mainly because of the uneveness of the corrosion although overall there's plenty of zinc left for a few more months

4. cannot comment on the engine mounts. never heard of expiry dates for them. Judge them by their condition I would think. ????????

5. Dunno. not on the list of torques I consulted.

6. The stainless steel oxide film will reform but I'd not antifoul the shaft anyway.


If you have mislaid your owners manual you can down load a copy from http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...lication_search/Pages/publication_search.aspx

 

[eddystone]

1. Solid black if part of the engine wiring would be a negative connection. Exactly what will depend on its diameter and the engine variation. Some have an isolated negative and an earthing solenoid . ( usually only engines with a sail drive) Others do not have an isolated negative but have a connection between the alternator negative and the engine block

It may be the connection between the hull anode and the engine block if the hull anode is supposed to provide protection to the shaft and prop. One would expect it to be the same wiring as the anode bonding ( ie yellow/green ) if it were part of the cathodic protection system though

Refer to the wiring diagram in your owners manual

look for the remains of the broken wire or a termination on places within reach.

2. See the owners manual for info about gear box oil change. Every 400 hours or once per season ITYWF is the recommendation but to put it in perspective ... how often do you change the oil in your car gear box?

3. Hull anode has some life left I would think esp if only to provide back up to the shaft anode ... What is it bonded to ?? Shaft anode looks a bit beyond it ... mainly because of the uneveness of the corrosion although overall there's plenty of zinc left for a few more months

4. cannot comment on the engine mounts. never heard of expiry dates for them. Judge them by their condition I would think. ????????

5. Dunno. not on the list of torques I consulted.

6. The stainless steel oxide film will reform but I'd not antifoul the shaft anyway.


If you have mislaid your owners manual you can down load a copy from http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...lication_search/Pages/publication_search.aspx

Thanks for that; it's not the engine to hull anode wire which is yellow/green but the attached end of it terminates at the same place on the engine mount - can't find oit on ethe wiring diagram but I'll keep looking for where it might have terminated at the front of the engine.

I am only planning to antifoul the prop and shaft because I got so much barnacle growth last season - might try udder cream as well!

 

[{151760}]

The nut which holds on my prop is tightened up as far as it will go, which just allows it to line up with the hole in the shaft for the split pin.

 

[eddystone]

The nut which holds on my prop is tightened up as far as it will go, which just allows it to line up with the hole in the shaft for the split pin.

I haven't go one of those - the nut is retained by a sort of washer which is bent over one of the flats on the nut

 

[Tranona]

As the prop is on a taper. it does not rely on the nut being at a particular torque. Just tighten it up until the nut won't go any further and lock it with the tab.

 

[eddystone]

As the prop is on a taper. it does not rely on the nut being at a particular torque. Just tighten it up until the nut won't go any further and lock it with the tab.

Ok now I understand