Fettling a seagull

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Paddingtonbear

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I have come across a very small Seagull code FS 965cc and I would like to pair it up with my 8'6" stick and glue dinghy. Any clues as to how it is cooled as I fail to see where the impeller is and I don't want to **** it up by doing something wrong. It appears to be almost new and has been stored in a garage for a long time. I have looked on line but all the websites seem to require a large amount of pre knowledge which I certainly don't have. Profuse apologies to Dylan obviously.
 
Saving old seagulls website is a good place to start. The impeller is a hard plastic thing just above the gearbox. Two bolts to split it. It fits on the square metal shaft. I love my seagull. It's very dirty and not at all Eco friendly but it's dead simple to use and to work on
 
Paddingtonbear said:
I have come across a very small Seagull code FS 965cc and I would like to pair it up with my 8'6" stick and glue dinghy. Any clues as to how it is cooled as I fail to see where the impeller is and I don't want to **** it up by doing something wrong. It appears to be almost new and has been stored in a garage for a long time. I have looked on line but all the websites seem to require a large amount of pre knowledge which I certainly don't have. Profuse apologies to Dylan obviously.
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FS is a Forty Featherweight, but FS965CC isn't a valid engine number. These things are bullet proof. Stick in some petroil (10:1, use biodegradable if you want to be more environmentally friendly than Dylan's diesel) and give it a pull.

It might be worth checking the spark first. If there isn't one, or if it's very weedy, the magneto magnets may have lost their oomph. The cure for this, apparently, it to take out the plug and turn the engine over very fast for a bit with an electric drill driving the dome nut.
 
FS indicates that it is a Featherweight model ( the smallest and with a shorter shaft length than standard ) with a sealed gearbox which uses EP90 rather than the more usual SAE 140 oil used in the unsealed boxes. At least it should not leak gear oil into the boot of the car and uses an oil which is readily available.

It was made in March 1978 or 79 but there should be another number (8 or 9) after the CC month code which will give the year.

It will run on 25:1 fuel mix (using a 2stroke outboard engine oil) which also helps to make it less messy than older ones running on 10:1

As said it has a rigid water pump impeller which is not likely to give any trouble. They dont wear like flexible impellers! Dont even bother to check it unless you have no cooling water flow

All the cooling water exits via the hole you will see on the under side of the cylinder block next to the head joint. It should exit at full bore, but not under any pressure, when running, but likely to be no more than a trickle though when idling.

The Featherweight with its low power is suitable for dingies up to about 9 ft with a suitably low transom .

All the info you'll need on the SOS website http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/index.html

and all the help youll need on the SOS forums http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/phpbb3/index.php
 
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A 1974 model running in the tank. Cooling water flow clearly visible.

DSCF0417.jpg



With the dinghy it was bought for

DSCF1078.jpg


DSCF1079.jpg
 
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Think you will find the last two figures are 79 which is 1979. The motor is a bit of a mongrel as it was made in the early days of the transition from unsealed gearbox/magneto/10:1/black fuel tanks to the post 1980 blue/electronic ignition/sealed gearbox/25:1 models so could have a mix of those features. However from a functional point of view it will run on 25:1 mix. As VicS says it has an extra short shaft (13" as opposed to 15") so may be a little high in the water when static but OK in use.

Just make sure it has a spark and that the fuel system is clean - particularly the filter in the tank tap as lack of use can lead to oil deposits gumming everything up. Don't worry about water pumping, it is really simple and idiot proof. As soon as you get it running you will be able to see if water comes out of the power head in a steady stream as per photos. You may have difficulty getting it away if it has not been used for a while, so suggest you squirt in some 2T oil into the carb air intake while pulling the starter cord. This helps seal the rings and gives good compression. That is the method we used in the factory to get new engines going. Once they have run for a bit starting should be first or second pull.
 
If mine hasn't run for a while. I put my hand over the carb intake an then it fires up immediately I've got a 40 minus. It pulls my walker bay 8 an two people and stff along at a fair old rate. It is a bit oily but it's only used to get out to the boat now an then
 
Has a similar effect, richening the mixture by reducing the amount of air in the mix. Squirt of oil is better but not so convenient to do when on the boat. Also useful if the engine won't pick up revs - a quick squirt and the revs soar!

Brings back memories of the hours spent in the test house all those years ago - even learning how to start them by flicking the flywheel like the old hands could.
 
I love simple engineering with best qual materials - guess thats why a seagull lasts if looked after. Now take a small four stroke - unless you can be bothered to check and adjust the valve clearance as it ages - it be kerry packered at some point. If an outboard 4 stroke power unit cost the same as a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engine, you'd just throw it away when the valves burn out - but when now all the RRPs for small four strokes is 600 pounds plus, a tidy profit is being made on the two stroke ban (when outboards were more like 350 to 400 pounds a shot.
 
If you get a decent modern outboard then you don't really need to work on it.

People say that you can 'always make a Seagull work'. I don't need to 'make' my Yamaha work because it already does work. It doesn't cover me with filth as soon as I touch it either.

rosewood said:
Saving old seagulls website is a good place to start. The impeller is a hard plastic thing just above the gearbox. Two bolts to split it. It fits on the square metal shaft. I love my seagull. It's very dirty and not at all Eco friendly but it's dead simple to use and to work on
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BruceDanforth said:
If you get a decent modern outboard then you don't really need to work on it.

People say that you can 'always make a Seagull work'. I don't need to 'make' my Yamaha work because it already does work. It doesn't cover me with filth as soon as I touch it either.
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I have a four stroke mariner too. It will need to be worked on at least once a year to service it etc. And its not as easy as easy as servicing a seagull
 
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