Featherstream prop anode wear

[Oscarpop]

We have a darglow featherstream prop with an anode. We also have a large anode on the hull in line of sight of the prop, plus anodes on the shaft and bow thruster .

However the prop anode seems to erode at a far faster rate than any of the other. We fitted a new anode in May, and it is quite badly eroded already, whereas the other anodes seem fine.

I figure that as it has a smaller surface area it will look more ratty faster.

Anyone shed advice on this?
How fast does your prop anode wear?
Any hints and tips to reduce wear?

Cheers

 

[wizard]

Have you tried talking to Darglow to get their opinion - I have always found them very helpful.

 

[RichardS]

I would expect that the anode closest to the metal being protected will wear the most so I guess it's probably inevitable that the anode actually mounted on the prop will be the prime target. However the other anodes should still be providing protection if they are close so as the surface area of the prop anode is reducing the wear should transfer to the next nearest anode. Still best to keep the prop anode above 50% weight but it's not the end of the world if it gets delayed a bit.

Richard

 

[Cantata]

I use an Autoprop, similar problem. If you don't already, make sure you paint round the fixing bolts of the anode (I use Trilux which I use on my saildrive leg) and that way it encourages the anode to erode away leaving the fastening area around the bolts intact.

 

[GrahamM376]

Expensive @ £40.14 delivered and wears out before the shaft anode. Main problem is the reduced thickness around the two bolt holes, which erodes before the thicker main body. I get 2 seasons out of ours by antifouling the screws & holes and the area adjacent to them. There's still plenty of contact area around the base.

 

[vyv_cox]

Expensive @ £40.14 delivered and wears out before the shaft anode. Main problem is the reduced thickness around the two bolt holes, which erodes before the thicker main body. I get 2 seasons out of ours by antifouling the screws & holes and the area adjacent to them. There's still plenty of contact area around the base.

Autoprop anode bolts are nylon to avoid the previous problem that the anode fell off when it was only 10% consumed. In conjunction with a shaft anode, with the prop painted using Velox, my anodes have just completed their fourth season. There is still some meat on them, probably just about half gone, but I will replace them next year.

 

[richardbrennan]

I have a Volvo folding prop which shows similar characteristics. There are three anodes that clamp around the prop hub which need replacing about every six months. However, the much larger anode on the saildrive hardly wears at all.

 

[captainboo]

I have a Featherstream and the anode will be easily going into its third season next year (In the water for the summer only at Inverkip).

My prop shaft is isolated from the gearbox by the coupling and the pear anode near the prop is only connected to the shaft through an MgDuff Electro Eliminator so it seems to help extend the life of the prop anode. The prop anode is being consumed as is the pear anode but the setup is working well and is clearly extending the prop anode life.

I have also painted around the mounting bolts with Hammerite Special metal primer to prevent early loss of the anode and that is also working well with no erosion around the bolt holes.