Feathering props - any good?

My boat (a fin keel and spade rudder) has the 2 bladed MAXPROP. However just even a whiff revs in reverse gear and the boat seems to have excessive prop walk. I have learnt to live with it but is there anything wrong with it?
 
alteredoutlook said:
My boat (a fin keel and spade rudder) has the 2 bladed MAXPROP. However just even a whiff revs in reverse gear and the boat seems to have excessive prop walk. I have learnt to live with it but is there anything wrong with it?
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Similar situation: fin keel - 3 bladed Featherstream - skeg hung rudder.
Very pronounced propwalk.
I get around it by using astern in very short bursts only - as soon as the boat is making way, I put the gear in neutral.

I've been told that this is because my prop is very near to my rudder - 3-4 inches.
 
SAPurdie said:
Obvious question, but is your folder clean and free moving? It might just need a strip and (dry*) lubrication. (*I'm guessing that hardening grease could be an issue)

Maybe try a good lathering with duck oil first if you dry out.
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It moves pretty freely (into ahead with a loud bang) but just isn't effective in astern. It's gotta go!
 
We had a Featherstream on previous heavy ish boat. Didn't notice a huge improvement in the prop walk compared to the Radice fixed "sailing boat" prop but astern power was much better and no problems with reliability.
The lower drag when feathered was quite noticeable in reducing the wind speed needed to get her moving quicker than a snail.
Current boat is bigger and lighter (for size) and gets going in quite light airs so I'm not sure how much benefit there would be fitting one now but for heavier displacement or sluggish boats it seems a winner.

Andy
 
andywbzvet said:
We had a Featherstream on previous heavy ish boat. Didn't notice a huge improvement in the prop walk compared to the Radice fixed "sailing boat" prop but astern power was much better and no problems with reliability.
The lower drag when feathered was quite noticeable in reducing the wind speed needed to get her moving quicker than a snail.
Current boat is bigger and lighter (for size) and gets going in quite light airs so I'm not sure how much benefit there would be fitting one now but for heavier displacement or sluggish boats it seems a winner.

Andy
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Check out racing handicaps for the answer
 
OR4751 said:
Similar situation: fin keel - 3 bladed Featherstream - skeg hung rudder.
Very pronounced propwalk.
I get around it by using astern in very short bursts only - as soon as the boat is making way, I put the gear in neutral.

I've been told that this is because my prop is very near to my rudder - 3-4 inches.
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This is a worry.
I originally fitted a Darglow JF feathering prop to overcome excessive prop walk. It did provide a marked improvement.
I'm now thinking of upgrading to a Featherstream but will I be back at square one?
 
sailorman said:
What is wrong with prop walk, use it to your advantage, we turn on a sixpence ( one way :))
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That's OK if you can plan ahead.
I had a bad experience in a Dutch lock. Following a small boat into Philipsdam lock, I assumed he would go to the far end but he stopped suddenly just inside. I went hard astern which kicked me diagonally across the lock and I wacked a brand new, just out of the box, mobo.
Not good for Anglo-Dutch or raggy - mobo relationships.
 
DanTribe said:
That's OK if you can plan ahead.
I had a bad experience in a Dutch lock. Following a small boat into Philipsdam lock, I assumed he would go to the far end but he stopped suddenly just inside. I went hard astern which kicked me diagonally across the lock and I wacked a brand new, just out of the box, mobo.
Not good for Anglo-Dutch or raggy - mobo relationships.
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do you have a tiller ?
 
sailorman said:
do you have a tiller ?
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Yes, I believe I have one somewhere.
It doesn't seem to work when the boat isn't moving through the water and the prop walk has spun me sideways.
I couldn't go ahead because of the boat stopped in front of me [he lassoed a ladder] and there was no room to go round him.
The options were 1/ run him down, [he was only little] 2/ try to stop and hope to avoid others [only managed the stopping bit]. :(
 
Make the prop wash work with the rudder. we are best port side to as she kicks to port astern, so to stop one engages astern then the stern is pulled to port making berthing or locks easier. stopping in a hurry one would req full stbd helm to offset the kick
 
DanTribe said:
This is a worry.
I originally fitted a Darglow JF feathering prop to overcome excessive prop walk. It did provide a marked improvement.
I'm now thinking of upgrading to a Featherstream but will I be back at square one?
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We swopped from a fixed 3 blade to a Featherstream last winter, and this has significantly reduced (but not eliminated) prop walk. The drag reduction when sailing is excellent.
 
vyv_cox said:
Had a Brunton Autoprop for something like 12 years now, 2200 hours on the engine installed at nearly the same time. Superb, does everything it says on the tin. Never had any type of problem with it, 15 minutes maintenance once per season. Reduces prop walk, increases power into the water. Only down side is that they are rather expensive.
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My Brunton has done about x3 Vyv's hours, is about twice as old and on two different engines - being an early version it needs fairly frequent bearing adjustment, and takes a short time to respond in reverse, as the blades rotate. It however transfers full power in reverse, unlike most props. It's biggest benefit (as it's, uniquely, a self pitching rather than a feathering propeller) is the ability to motor-sail in light winds getting almost the full drive benefit of both systems.
There are many cheaper feathering props on the market Kiwi, Maxprop, which may produce less drag than the Autoprop, which certainly has more drag than a good folding propeller.
But as Vyv says they are expensive.

As to propwalk (which I find very useful) on my boat it can still be used very effectively - just increase revs in reverse VERY slowly
 
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charles_reed said:
My Brunton has done about x3 Vyv's hours, is about twice as old and on two different engines - being an early version it needs fairly frequent bearing adjustment, and takes a short time to respond in reverse, as the blades rotate. It however transfers full power in reverse, unlike most props. It's biggest benefit (as it's, uniquely, a self pitching rather than a feathering propeller) is the ability to motor-sail in light winds getting almost the full drive benefit of both systems.
There are many cheaper feathering props on the market Kiwi, Maxprop, which may produce less drag than the Autoprop, which certainly has more drag than a good folding propeller.
But as Vyv says they are expensive.

As to propwalk (which I find very useful) on my boat it can still be used very effectively - just increase revs in reverse VERY slowly
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I certainly wouldnt put MaxProp in the cheap range & i have never seen a Brunton fitted to a new oyster either but most have 3 or 4 blade Maxprops.
Have you seen the new 5 blade MaxProp, its a thing of beauty
 
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