Faulty fuel gauge.

[peteK]

Hope someone can confirm what I think the fault is.
When I switch on the ignition the fuel gauge goes to maximum,hard against the stop.
If I disconnect the 2 wires on the sender no change.
If I join the 2 together the guage drops to zero.
My thinking is that the sender has gone o/c what do others think.
Its a european guage 8 to 180 ohms I think.

 

[alan]

If the sender is a wire coil with a moving arm slider (e.g. VDO) then you can replace the sender unit with a variable resistor (around 200 ohms, and costs a few pence) and replace the sender with this (outside of fuel tank!!!); and then see if rotating the variable resistor cause the gauge to go from full to empty. If the gauge works with the resistor then it is the sender which is faulty. If yours is a VDO unit, then VDO now make a version with a vertical float which slides on the body of the unit (as opposed to the old type with a moving arm and a slider which goes up and down on a wire coil; this 'new' type is easier to calibrate and also the flange is the same pattern as the older type which makes replacing really easy.
Judging by what you have described then, even if not VDO, then the problem is likely with the sender.

Alan.

 

[Dan Tribe]

Hope someone can confirm what I think the fault is.
When I switch on the ignition the fuel gauge goes to maximum,hard against the stop.
If I disconnect the 2 wires on the sender no change.
If I join the 2 together the guage drops to zero.
My thinking is that the sender has gone o/c what do others think.
Its a european guage 8 to 180 ohms I think.

This has happened to me twice. On both occasions the black wire has come adrift. Check the obvious things first.

 

[vyv_cox]

The next PBO contains my account of replacing my tank sender. It behaved exactly as you describe. I changed it to an Osculati tubular type. But do check the wires first.

 

[peteK]

So removed the fuel sender today,it was not the winding on the reostat as expected but the contact spring was not connected with the steel return path.
Thanks to those who replied.

 

[Dan Tribe]

This has happened to me twice. On both occasions the black wire has come adrift. Check the obvious things first.

I wish I could follow my own advice.
My daughter has acquired a barn find ride on mower. New battery but no life. Hot wired the starter motor, that works. Spent an hour doing diagnostics with a meter which involved removing body panels etc. Fuses all OK, must be a broken wire or connection. Meanwhile, daughter googles the handbook, you have to depress the clutch pedal to start, bingo, it's all working! Check the blooming obvious things first.

 

[Refueler]

Meanwhile, daughter googles the handbook, you have to depress the clutch pedal to start, bingo, it's all working!

I have two Jonsered Lawn Tractors ..... 2114LT and 2113LT


Maybe these tips can help as well :

1. To start - push left pedal (Brake / Clutch) all way down.
2. You must sit in seat to depress the safety switch fitted under seat ...
3. If you must get off and leave engine running - push down left pedal - engage hand brake ... release left pedal. Engine should now stay running.
4. If you want to reverse while still cutting ... the ignition switch - turn it ONE click back from run position...
5. Cutter blade bolts seize / get damaged and hard to undo to change blades .... you can put spanner on top pulley - but this can undo the pulley bolt if blade bolt is really seized. Better way is to get block of wood - jam the cutter blade against cutter body and then undo cutter bolt.