Fastening the rubbing strake on an Achilles 24

MoodySabre

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My son's A24 has the strake coming adrift. This needs a few bolts and self-tappers to correct it. As he lives in Wales it would be much easier for me to get the fastenings before going to help him. Does anybody know what length bolts would be needed? I can of course just buy long ones and take a decent hacksaw but I'd rather not

Ta.
 
I fitted out our Achilles 24 from a bare hull but that was back in 1975. I have a mental picture of the deck moulding lip overlapping the inside of the hull by about 60-70mm. I presume the connecting bolts were hidden behind the strake. I reckon that the two layers of GRP and bedding were probable about 18-20mm total thickness. The strake was 25-30 mm.
But that was a long time ago and I have been involved with a lot of other boats since so that, combined with advancing dementia means that my information is far from reliable. At that time a hull with keel, rudder and deck fixed and windows hatches etc. together with a mast boom and rigging kit cost £1450. About a years income after tax.

However the original brochure specification states-----
'after bedding on to an adhesive base, the deck is riveted to the hull and then the two units are joined internally with fibreglass. At this time the stanchion bases are are bonded into the hull deck joint after having been carefully jigged into position.'
Ron Cooks appraisal of the boat in 'Small Boat' just repeats that description.
So it appears that my memory is unreliable and the pelleted strake bolts only have to go through the hull layer plus the joining bandage.
 
MoodySabre,

I fitted a new rubbing strake on my A22 a couple of years ago - another Oliver Lee design but I'm not sure how much input he had with Chris Butler on the Achilles 24 ?

I found the A22 plastic extrusion ( see E-Bay or feel free to PM me ) was fitted on an alloy track, so removed that and coated it with the wonderful ' Dulux Metalshield Pro ' paint.

It took 72 stainless bolts to fit it back, with Sikaflex then grp resin on the inside.

We chose the bolt length carefully, but agreed afterwards looking at my skinned knuckles that a rechargeable angle grinder with a cutting disc would have been rather handy.
 
I've fitted two sets, one was rubber - heavy duty and the other was a lighter weight. For both I used uber Sikaflex with self tapping SS screws to hold it whilst it cured and neither have come adrift over the years. Both times the originals failed because of crevice corrosion in the bolts used as mechanical fixings, a chemical bond seems far more effective and way less trouble locating the nuts behind internal fittings.
 
If the bolts are too long, you can use mole grips to snal the end of the bolt off. Then you need to retighten the nut again. This method was used by Hunter Boats in Rochford as it also stopped the nuts coming off as the thread was distorted. However if you need to remove the nut it will straighten the thread when unscrewed. The bolts will be unuseable for any future use though.
 
'Snal' is not a word I've come across. Could you explain this please?
If the bolts are too long, you can use mole grips to snal the end of the bolt off. Then you need to retighten the nut again. This method was used by Hunter Boats in Rochford as it also stopped the nuts coming off as the thread was distorted. However if you need to remove the nut it will straighten the thread when unscrewed. The bolts will be unuseable for any future use though.
 
I think Concerto meant ' snap ' - but I think the bolt ends would need a bit of attention with a ( probably Junior ) hacksaw or rechargeable angle grinder with cutting disc first.
 
Yes it was snap. Sorry a typo I missed.

For smoothing off any roughness use a little sealant, it is easier and cleaner to get a good smooth surface. Also easy to just wind the nut through as well. Grinding or sawing will leave metal filings, some of which are not stainless and will rust over time.
 
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