Fan heater thermostat onboard?
- Thread starter Conachair
- Start date
Rigger Mortice
N/A
No. The relay isn't rated for mains electricity.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Are you sure the built in thermostat is really as bad as you claim.
The kit in your link requires a 12 volt DC supply and would need an external relay, rated for the current of your fan heater at 240 volts but with a 12 volt coil, to control the fan heater.
So
Why not simply use a decent room thermostat.. If your power socket is suitably placed a plug in type might do the business
The kit in your link requires a 12 volt DC supply and would need an external relay, rated for the current of your fan heater at 240 volts but with a 12 volt coil, to control the fan heater.
So
Why not simply use a decent room thermostat.. If your power socket is suitably placed a plug in type might do the business
Last edited:
Conachair
Guest
elton
Well-Known Member
I found the need for a thermostat external to the fan heater, because in a small cabin the air temperature on the floor where the heater sits can stay quite low, while the air at body height becomes uncomfortably warm because the heater just stays on until it senses that the incoming air is warm. So I fitted this thermostat and socket about half way up the bulkhead. It's wired to the socket on the left, and the heater just plugs into that. I got it at Maplin, but I don't see it in the current catalogue.
Conachair
Guest
It is pretty awful, maybe partly because in under the chart table not much air moves. 12v is easy on the boat and a relay would be easy to sort out. I might give it a go. Lot of winter to get through yet....
RestlessL
Well-Known Member
If you go for a room thermostat check the switching rating. You need one capable of switching 10A or more. They are available from B&Q etc for about £15.
nigelmercier
RIP
- Joined
- 20 Jun 2007
- Messages
- 16,234
- Location
- Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
philip_stevens
Well-Known Member
Reckon something like this would work through a relay to control a fan heater onboard?
The thermostat built into the heater switches off at tropical and back on again at arctic
Keep the heater stat on max, and plug it into something like this Timeguard
Cheap and safer than the Maplin thing.
Conachair
Guest
I've just checked, but Maplins don't do worktops plus a bigger boat to put one in
They have these though.. http://www.maplin.co.uk/30a-spdt-power-relay-37495
So wonder if that blue cap looking thing in the pic of the thermostat kit is a thermistor? Might be able to break that out and mount it somewhere sensible.
awol
Well-Known Member
Get a fan heater with a better thermostat?
nigelmercier
RIP
- Joined
- 20 Jun 2007
- Messages
- 16,234
- Location
- Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
I've just checked, but Maplins don't do worktops plus a bigger boat to put one in
They have these though...
Sledgehammer + Nut.
OK, a try putting it on a table then.
Conachair
Guest
Where the plug is situated is in an even worse place than the heater for air movement
elton
Well-Known Member
It's not a matter of quality of thermostat. It's the location of the thermostat that makes the difference.
Conachair
Guest
It's only a little boat. Barely enough room for the laptop to post on here and dinner on the table at the same time.
Under the chart table is the only sensible place I've came up with so far to put it without major surgery and cables across the floor.
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Nigel, Brevity is your trademark - never a wasted word. Good sense though.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Roomstat.. picked at random... 10A
Click the picture
.
Click the picture
.
Conachair
Guest
Well, the maplins kit soldered and seems to work well, just breathing on the sensor turns it on and off. Just need a relay and little enclosure and all should be a finely controlled cabin of cozy warmness
For the clever LX types, the spec here says
Maximum switching power:
3600VA resistive
450W resistive
Is one AC and the other DC?
Fan is 1800W, would that suffice? I make it 7.5A max.
For the clever LX types, the spec here says
Maximum switching power:
3600VA resistive
450W resistive
Is one AC and the other DC?
Fan is 1800W, would that suffice? I make it 7.5A max.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
I would be careful where you put it, or else use something like a Dimplex Coldwatch.
We used to leave a fan heater with a frost setting in the kitchen of a holiday home we owned.
One weekend we arrived to find the thing had caught fire and self-destructed. Fortunately it was on a stone-flagged floor well away from anything combustible.
We used to leave a fan heater with a frost setting in the kitchen of a holiday home we owned.
One weekend we arrived to find the thing had caught fire and self-destructed. Fortunately it was on a stone-flagged floor well away from anything combustible.
Conachair
Guest
Sounds like another good reason to have a separate thermostat. Anyway, the one onboard will only have power when I'm at home.
