Fairline Trim Tabs

petem

petem

Well-Known Member
Joined
16 May 2001
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19,114
Location
Cotswolds / Altea
www.fairlineownersclub.com
I find the wiring of the trim tabs on my boat un-intuitive (I believe Fairline wire them differently to some manufacturers) and to be honest they are rarely required in the conditions that we tend to go out in.

Can someone remind me how they are wired and perhaps offer a way to remember?
 
It is, I agree. Thing is though that after a while you just get used to operating them without thinking about it anymore.
 
Fairline wire the trim switches to relate to the attitude of the boat, rather than the position of the tabs. Once you get used to it it's really simple - if you want portside bow down, you press the port switch forwards; and so on. I wouldn't muck about rewiring anything until you've actually lived with it for a bit.
 
jimmy_the_builder said:
Fairline wire the trim switches to relate to the attitude of the boat, rather than the position of the tabs. Once you get used to it it's really simple - if you want portside bow down, you press the port switch forwards; and so on. I wouldn't muck about rewiring anything until you've actually lived with it for a bit.
Click to expand...

That makes sense!
 
Makes me wonder how do they wire the trim controls of outdrives.
Reversed (but not crossed) in order to be consistent with the tabs, maybe... :confused:
 
Actually the port does not operate port and visa versa

The standard set up for Trim Tabs is for them to work "opposite". Most people don't even realize that their Trim Tabs are wired that way.

The switches are wired this way so that you push the switch in the direction you want the boat to respond. For example if your starboard bow is high you push the forward right hand switch. This lowers the port trim tab, lifting the port stern and lowering the starboard bow.

Some people prefer to wire them so that the switch reflects what the Trim Tabs are doing, that is easy to do and fine. But most people find it more intuitive to have them wired as yours are. And I would suggest you try that way first.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

cross
 
My Sunseeker like PeteM,s boat was wired as ^^^ .
It drove me nuts as Mapish M infers the drive in / out is live with a guage ( VP ) but the trims reversed based on the boat .

Mentally when I pressed the the drive trim from 0 to minus 3 on port ,I imagined the port leg coming tighter to the hull .
Which is what happened easy peasy .
Bouncing along the wind veers to as above ^^^ wind on stb side , causing a roll to port --one looks @ the tab / flap controls and intuitively want to lower the port tab ,so press the bottom for down of the port button ,which raises the starboard tab ( if any is deployed ) makes the roll worse .

Current boat has gauges -2 up to 0 to + 5 Down - switches are under the gauges -marked a up and down port n starboard .
I can see mentally and graphically where the tabs are and move them to where I want them . Don't have to think .
If it's rolling to port ( as on diagrams ^^^ ) from a strong starboard wind ,I just put the port tab down until it's level , by taking the toggle on marked port flap port and moving it to " down " position , at the same time the indicator shows the flap position ----- as a result boat moves as I would expect .

When I come back or anchor I can see from the indicators where the flaps are ,and put then fully up to protect the rams from seal busting growth while the boats not moving .
 
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Tabman said:
The standard set up for Trim Tabs is for them to work "opposite". Most people don't even realize that their Trim Tabs are wired that way.
Click to expand...
Do you mean that most people don't even wonder why by pressing one button it's actually the opposite indicator that moves, or is also the indicator reversed (which would drive me nuts, but that's me of course)?
Or are you implying that most people just couldn't care less, maybe...? :rolleyes:
 
I could understand the explanation from Tom (thanks) above but this post (albeit from MANY years ago) from JFM, who is not normally wrong, has thrown me a bit....

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?25365-Trim-tabs-bow-up-down&p=221636#post221636

Of course, I really need to check how my boat has been wired.

@Porto, I agree 100%. Like you, I am perfectly capable of understanding that lowering the port side tab will lift the port side stern and drop the port side bow. And therefore it would be more intuitive if the port side down button dropped the port side tab.

What's doubly frustrating is not having an indicator, particularly when you're a bit anal like me and want exactly the same amount of tab deployed on the port and starboard sides (unless trying to correct a list).
 
Just try to push the buttons in the direction you want the boat to move. But if you want to change the setup it's an easy job. Depending on the access to the rear of the switch, maybe 20 minutes.

Tom
Bennett Marine
 
petem said:
I could understand the explanation from Tom (thanks) above but this post (albeit from MANY years ago) from JFM, who is not normally wrong, has thrown me a bit....

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?25365-Trim-tabs-bow-up-down&p=221636#post221636

Of course, I really need to check how my boat has been wired.

@Porto, I agree 100%. Like you, I am perfectly capable of understanding that lowering the port side tab will lift the port side stern and drop the port side bow. And therefore it would be more intuitive if the port side down button dropped the port side tab.

What's doubly frustrating is not having an indicator, particularly when you're a bit anal like me and want exactly the same amount of tab deployed on the port and starboard sides (unless trying to correct a list).
Click to expand...

You can change them to the newer Bennett displays.
You would need to unscrew the top of the actual tab and fit the new unit (which is the sender) but it can be a nightmare to reconnect the brass tubing on the inside, behind the engine blocks (probably!)
You get a new up/down switch unit - and I think you just need to rewire your brain a bit, not the units !!
Fit a new relay module.
About the only thing you keep is the pump unit. You cannot just change the switch I am afraid.
The switch has indicator lights on it.
http://bennetttrimtabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/EIC5000-Installation-Sheet-8.5x11-for-Web.pdf.
Switch looks like this
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/bennett-marine--eic5000-electronic-trim-tab-indicator--8618654.
The good thing for you is that what happens is written on the switch (port bow up) ;)

It is a bit of crawling about running the new harness along the boat, and as I said, connecting behind the engine is tough.
I managed in the end.
PHMarine were very helpful (and patient!)
 
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gjgm said:
You can change them to the newer Bennett displays.
You would need to unscrew the top of the actual tab and fit the new unit (which is the sender) but it can be a nightmare to reconnect the brass tubing on the inside, behind the engine blocks (probably!)
You get a new up/down switch unit - and I think you just need to rewire your brain a bit, not the units !!
Fit a new relay module.
About the only thing you keep is the pump unit. You cannot just change the switch I am afraid.
The switch has indicator lights on it.
http://bennetttrimtabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/EIC5000-Installation-Sheet-8.5x11-for-Web.pdf.
Switch looks like this
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/bennett-marine--eic5000-electronic-trim-tab-indicator--8618654.
The good thing for you is that what happens is written on the switch (port bow up) ;)

It is a bit of crawling about running the new harness along the boat, and as I said, connecting behind the engine is tough.
I managed in the end.
PHMarine were very helpful (and patient!)
Click to expand...

I admire your perseverance!
 
Every boat I've owned has had the trim tabs wired in the same way as Petem and Toms post from bennet marine above, but I have to say I also find it hugely unintuitive, and so does everyone I have mentioned it to, and a good few people on here too it would seem.

I'd much rather the switches were wired so that pressing down in the left button makes the left tab go down and so on.

Cant be bothered to make the change to the wiring myself, but just some feedback to Tom in case we're not in the minority any more.
 
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